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okay so i apologize if this is in the wrong place as it could go here or possibly over in the suspension forum. anyways...
this spring i have two big things planned: rims and air ride. rims will for sure come first as it is alot less work to put some new wheels on than it is to install an air ride system. right now i'm planning on getting sportmax 962's. i really like the look of that wheel and they're pretty inexpensive. my question is this: how big a wheel can i go without having to roll or trim my fenders in the event that i get air ride? i think this pertains more to the width and offset of the wheel, but the diameter is also a concern of mine. i'd like to run 18's, but if thats not possible 17's would be fine too.
now pretend i have air ride:
my biggest concern is hitting my fenders with my tires when i lower the xb all the way down. i have a friend with air ride (wackblackxb) and with his 18's, if the front wheels arent PERFECTLY straight his fenders rest on the tires and he has bent his fenders as a result. i would seriously like to avoid this.

some other general stuff so people don't have to go digging:
sportmax 962's come in-
17x7 +40
17x9 +35
18x7.5 +38
18x8.5 +35

so to sum it all up: what size wheel would be right if i want a hassle free air ride set-up (fitment wise) later on in the year?
Much thanks to everyone in advance!
 

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If you want the Sportmax 962s you shouldn't have a problem running 18s. You will just be limited on your choice of width and offset. Especially if you want to avoid any trimming. This preference will dictate running a fairly high offset in order to clear the fender lip. (Most Scion guys just refer to this as a Honda offset... +40 or greater in most cases.) And this also assumes that you want to get as low as possible with a bolt on kit (new rear shocks for more drop).

To play it safe I would run the 18x7.5 +38 front and rear. Even with that you will be running pretty close to the front fender. You should be able to clear, but with Airlift struts, you may have to add camber to clear properly. The rear should have no clearance problems whatsoever. You might even be able to get away with a 5mm or even a 10mm spacer depending on the rubber you run and how low you go.

If you are willing to roll your fenders, or not go quite as low, you might be able to run the 18x8.5 in the rear. Suspension and fender well clearance will be super close though (if not an issue). You are looking at about 3/8" closer to the suspension and about 5/8" closer to the fender than the 18x7.5.

I hope that helps. I know it isn't the most definitive answer, but it is a start for you.
 

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Remember i have air for sale :)
 

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its going to hit the plastic bumper to fender brackets unless you put something silly like 5" wide wheels on there.
just make new thinner brackets and pull the fenders slightly.
 

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its going to hit the plastic bumper to fender brackets unless you put something silly like 5" wide wheels on there.
just make new thinner brackets and pull the fenders slightly.
^^^^^Da man know his stuff.

I'm running 18X8 with a 32 offset and I have major front lip issues. I trimmed the old plastic connector and made a new slim one, still have issues. Gonna try a few other things before rolling or pulling the fender.
 

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I have to respectfully disagree Jim...

Randode...


The RTon20s (don't mind the mess, or the tweaked front bumper)...


Plenty of others I can throw pictures up of, but you get the idea.
 

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I have to respectfully disagree Jim...

Randode...


The RTon20s (don't mind the mess, or the tweaked front bumper)...


Plenty of others I can throw pictures up of, but you get the idea.

not really but I see the minitruckin style there. In order to lay frame the wheels have to be tucked or sunk like a battleship. The Dakota's aren't that bad with that type of look. It's the S-10's and Blazers that kill me, but we're on the xB forums, so they don't count this time. But hey, it not our car he tryin to fix up. it's his. Now he knows both looks for reference. Let him decide what he wants. He can more than likely join up with USDM Choice. nothin wrong with that.
 

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^^^yeah, but how much ground to pinch weld clearance?

and those JDM bB's are amazing.
 

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Sweet, that's what I'm thinking about doing to mine to get the rims tucked. OTG's on the rear? Spacers and shims? Looks sweet.
Modified OTG camber plates. No spacers, just stretched tires, camber, pulled/rolled/trimmed fender. Countless hrs of tweaking the airride.... But it was all worth it! :D
 

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Modified OTG camber plates. No spacers, just stretched tires, camber, pulled/rolled/trimmed fender. Countless hrs of tweaking the airride.... But it was all worth it! :D
I'd have to agree, it was all worth it! :D
 

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I absolutely agree Jim. It really is his choice. It is all about the look you are going for. The more VIP Style JDM look that you have requires that flush fitment. To get really low on air (laying out) and sporting big rollers, you have no choice but to tuck. (So how long until we get faux VIP Style boxes running around with knock off kits and the Sportmax 504s? :) )

Being as the O.P. will likely use a bolt on kit and the 962s, I would say he falls somewhere between the two styles (VIP and Minitruck). He won't lay as low as a mini style build, but he won't be rolling on wheels with JDM VIP / Euro styling cues. The 962s are sporty.

Trying to avoid headaches in the original posters case is going to limit his options. Either a smaller (17") wheel with stretched tires if he want to go wider than 7.5", or sticking with the 18x7.5s all the way around. He might be able to squeeze something wider in the rear with 18s and a stretch, I just think it will look kind of funny on the 962s.

And DaJap... what are the specs on your wheels? And what is the spec on your camber front and rear right now? I know you have the OTG in the rear, but are they still at -3?
 

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^^^yeah, but how much ground to pinch weld clearance?

and those JDM bB's are amazing.
thats just my regular setup- no wleds just bolt on
 

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Dooby... the "pinch weld" is a part of the body. The pinch weld is a sheet metal seam where two pieces of sheet metal are folded together and then spot welded. This is the lowest portion of the unibody (steel).

I think Randy was just making a point that even though your kit lays on the ground, the body of your xB does not. Randy's is one of a select few whose xBs might actually lay out. I personally know of three that may, but Randy's is the only one I know of that does for sure.
 

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Dooby... the "pinch weld" is a part of the body. The pinch weld is a sheet metal seam where two pieces of sheet metal are folded together and then spot welded. This is the lowest portion of the unibody (steel).

I think Randy was just making a point that even though your kit lays on the ground, the body of your xB does not. Randy's is one of a select few whose xBs might actually lay out. I personally know of three that may, but Randy's is the only one I know of that does for sure.

got it...ya the bodykit definatly help out with me looking on the floor
 
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