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Fastscions has an engine torque damper. Ingalls Engineering "Stiffy" Engine Torque Damper: Scion xA / xB 2004 - 2006

I'd be inclined to do the motor mounts first.
I have the Ingalls torque damper, the engine doesn't shake but some parts of the body frame make the rattle occasionally, either the dash inside and the exhaust, my exhaust rattle above the rear sway area hitting the body frame, I fix this by securing it down.
but having the torque damper feels more grip. BTW, if ever you're goin to put this, make sure you have a jack under the engine, after I removed the engine mount, the engine lean forward to the right.
Great info, thanks a lot guys!!!
 

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Installed a Progress rear anti-sway bar on my box last night... Holy sh1t! This, combined with my other suspension mods has made this thing corner like it's on rails! I had a blast just whipping around corners and taking on ramps with barely even a sigh from my brave little Toastee! Definitely worth the price of admission!

Next thing i'm eying is a Megan H brace for the front end. Probably don't need it, but for $60, it can't hurt!

(Other suspension mods- Tanabe DF210 springs, KYB Excel-G Toyota Echo shocks and struts, Energy Suspension bushings up front and a DC Sports front strut bar)
 

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/\/\.. May want to replace the rubber bushing on the end links !!! Takes about 1 to 2 hours to do and will notice a BIG improvement in da steering too !!!

My box is SOoo tight that... I love it !!!!
 

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Needing Toaster Time
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Hahahah! I thought I saw my name... didn't know I had my own brand! :p

Today... I drove the Dirty Toaster. That's pretty much the only thing I did with it. lol
I'm too broke for any maintenance at the moment, which means any mods or "little extras" are WAY out of my budget for the foreseeable future... le sigh.

But someday.
 

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/\/\.. May want to replace the rubber bushing on the end links !!! Takes about 1 to 2 hours to do and will notice a BIG improvement in da steering too !!!

My box is SOoo tight that... I love it !!!!
That's what I meant by Energy Suspension bushings up front. Definitely made a big difference. Did that mod early on, I think right after I lowered it.
 

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/\/\.. Right on !!!!! Did all the mods you stated years ago and happy I did !!! Aired the tires to 44 PSI, rides a little stiff but after all... I did not buy a caddy to drive in !!!!
 

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/\/\.. Right on !!!!! Did all the mods you stated years ago and happy I did !!! Aired the tires to 44 PSI, rides a little stiff but after all... I did not buy a caddy to drive in !!!!
I thought a caddy drug your bag around and clubbed you :) 44psi? The things we do for gas milage ;)
 

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I seen "Christmas trees" on my dash today.
C1201 and P0171. Also my battery failed the test at Orileys.
Ive narrowed it down to what I think it is, the MAF sensor needs to be cleaned, right? Also new battery, could a poor operating battery cause the lights to come on? Haven't read anything on the forum about the battery causing those problems.
 

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Yes 2:08AM Central Time. Just got finished changing my transmission oil and filter on my 06 Scion xB

1. Funny that the dipstick reads "Transmission Oil Does Not Need To Be Replaced," Yeah, whatever - my tranny oil was not red it was brown.

2.I need to mention that there is a forum on this website going over an tranny oil replacement calling for approx: 3 Quarts of Oil b/c that is all that could get out from the plug I followed those same instructions and ended up buying 4 Quarts to be on the "safe side," but to my surprise I emptied out 4 1/2 Quarts of Oil!!!!! That is a big difference from the previous thread. I am not sure if the other guy was running low on oil but 1 1/2 more quarts is a huge difference. So I wanted to give everyone who wants to diy a heads up.

3. My Box has the Check Engine, VSC, and Trac Lights on! (Very common it seems) It has been like that since I bought it 4 years ago. (60k miles later too). I have had 0, ZERO, NONE, NOTHING of problems. I read that the P0174 code is a transmission solenoid problem or it could be dirty transmission oil!!!
 

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Yes 2:08AM Central Time. Just got finished changing my transmission oil and filter on my 06 Scion xB

1. Funny that the dipstick reads "Transmission Oil Does Not Need To Be Replaced," Yeah, whatever - my tranny oil was not red it was brown.

2.I need to mention that there is a forum on this website going over an tranny oil replacement calling for approx: 3 Quarts of Oil b/c that is all that could get out from the plug I followed those same instructions and ended up buying 4 Quarts to be on the "safe side," but to my surprise I emptied out 4 1/2 Quarts of Oil!!!!! That is a big difference from the previous thread. I am not sure if the other guy was running low on oil but 1 1/2 more quarts is a huge difference. So I wanted to give everyone who wants to diy a heads up.

3. My Box has the Check Engine, VSC, and Trac Lights on! (Very common it seems) It has been like that since I bought it 4 years ago. (60k miles later too). I have had 0, ZERO, NONE, NOTHING of problems. I read that the P0174 code is a transmission solenoid problem or it could be dirty transmission oil!!!
I just got my wife's Pilot back from the transmission shop, they rebuilt the valve body because when she stopped it would drop it into neutral. The mechanic said the transmission fails due to not changing the fluid. He recommends not going by what the dealership states but changing it every 12k and the transmission will last the life of the engine. I will start doing that.
 

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Dead box
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Yes 2:08AM Central Time. Just got finished changing my transmission oil and filter on my 06 Scion xB

1. Funny that the dipstick reads "Transmission Oil Does Not Need To Be Replaced," Yeah, whatever - my tranny oil was not red it was brown.

2.I need to mention that there is a forum on this website going over an tranny oil replacement calling for approx: 3 Quarts of Oil b/c that is all that could get out from the plug I followed those same instructions and ended up buying 4 Quarts to be on the "safe side," but to my surprise I emptied out 4 1/2 Quarts of Oil!!!!! That is a big difference from the previous thread. I am not sure if the other guy was running low on oil but 1 1/2 more quarts is a huge difference. So I wanted to give everyone who wants to diy a heads up.

3. My Box has the Check Engine, VSC, and Trac Lights on! (Very common it seems) It has been like that since I bought it 4 years ago. (60k miles later too). I have had 0, ZERO, NONE, NOTHING of problems. I read that the P0174 code is a transmission solenoid problem or it could be dirty transmission oil!!!
Despite what manufacturer's might say, there is NO SUCH THING as "lifetime fluid." Many Toyota models now have "sealed" transmissions with no drain plug and no dipstick, which I think is asinine. Brown or black ATF needs to come out, no question, and having no dipstick or drain plug in those in order to check or change it is a huge disservice.

se-r_dad is right that all transmissions need regular fluid changes. As a former second-gen Odyssey owner (traded in when the 4th transmission was giving up the ghost at 244k), I can appreciate his mechanic's recommendation to over-maintain the unit in his Pilot. The '11 Accord we replaced the Ody with gets 30k intervals for the ATF with fairly easy driving.

Toyota's automatics are pretty robust, so every 30-50k should be a good interval, depending on your driving and climate (harsh temperatures or temperature swings, mountains, lots of stop & go, etc. means a shorter interval). There's also the option of dropping the pan and replacing the filter, which can get clogged with debris over time.

P0174 is an emissions code, not transmission. Most transmission codes begin P07xx. The P0174 code *usually* appears on V6 and V8 engines, because it indicates a lean condition for the O2 sensor on bank 2, the side of the engine that doesn't have cylinder 1. Inline engines (like all Toyota 4s) have only bank of cylinders, and it's normally identified by the ECU as bank 1. P0171 and P0174 are often associated with intake leaks, so I'd start there. If you've had poor fuel economy, this could be the culprit - the intake leak adds more air beyond what the MAF reads, and causes the engine to run lean. The O2 sensor reads this and adds more fuel to compensate.
 

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Mini_Bus
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I just got my wife's Pilot back from the transmission shop, they rebuilt the valve body because when she stopped it would drop it into neutral. The mechanic said the transmission fails due to not changing the fluid. He recommends not going by what the dealership states but changing it every 12k and the transmission will last the life of the engine. I will start doing that.
That makes more sense. Old transmission oil (old can mean a lot of things ex: miles driven, climate conditions, driving style, etc ) is typically filled with metal particulates. Those same particulates could possibly rub and wear down the internals of the transmission. I would recommend always keeping an eye on it just like you would engine oil.
 

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Had the dealer changed mine at 65000 !! No issues but fluid came out red a so far no issues but I do pay attention to any thing that does not feel right !!!
 

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Mini_Bus
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Despite what manufacturer's might say, there is NO SUCH THING as "lifetime fluid." Many Toyota models now have "sealed" transmissions with no drain plug and no dipstick, which I think is asinine. Brown or black ATF needs to come out, no question, and having no dipstick or drain plug in those in order to check or change it is a huge disservice.

se-r_dad is right that all transmissions need regular fluid changes. As a former second-gen Odyssey owner (traded in when the 4th transmission was giving up the ghost at 244k), I can appreciate his mechanic's recommendation to over-maintain the unit in his Pilot. The '11 Accord we replaced the Ody with gets 30k intervals for the ATF with fairly easy driving.

Toyota's automatics are pretty robust, so every 30-50k should be a good interval, depending on your driving and climate (harsh temperatures or temperature swings, mountains, lots of stop & go, etc. means a shorter interval). There's also the option of dropping the pan and replacing the filter, which can get clogged with debris over time.

P0174 is an emissions code, not transmission. Most transmission codes begin P07xx. The P0174 code *usually* appears on V6 and V8 engines, because it indicates a lean condition for the O2 sensor on bank 2, the side of the engine that doesn't have cylinder 1. Inline engines (like all Toyota 4s) have only bank of cylinders, and it's normally identified by the ECU as bank 1. P0171 and P0174 are often associated with intake leaks, so I'd start there. If you've had poor fuel economy, this could be the culprit - the intake leak adds more air beyond what the MAF reads, and causes the engine to run lean. The O2 sensor reads this and adds more fuel to compensate.
Thanks for the info! Also it was late when I posted and I meant to type P0741 for the code. Haha, got it backwards.
 

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Fluid could be the cause of that code. Keep an eye on it - you may need to do another drain & fill (or two) of the transmission to get more of the old fluid out. Valvoline Maxlife is a good option - it meets Toyota specs, is a synthetic fluid, and is only $17-18 per gallon at Wal-Mart. As a bonus, you can also use it to replace your power steering fluid, as Toyota calls for ATF in that system, as well.
 

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Fluid could be the cause of that code. Keep an eye on it - you may need to do another drain & fill (or two) of the transmission to get more of the old fluid out. Valvoline Maxlife is a good option - it meets Toyota specs, is a synthetic fluid, and is only $17-18 per gallon at Wal-Mart. As a bonus, you can also use it to replace your power steering fluid, as Toyota calls for ATF in that system, as well.
I did two drain and fills about two or three months back, I just used Toyota stuff 9 bucks a quart.
 
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