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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm in a dilema. I already have H&R Race springs, Whiteline sway bar, and poly urethane front bushings....I still want better handling.

I don't have the $$ to get coilovers, so don't even say that lol. I have about $150ish to spend

I've been looking at the GTSpec frame brace


Or the Tanabe Sub frame brace


Any other idea's for better handling? Any input is always appreciated.
 

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I can't think of anything else other than a custom alignment job. I don't know if you can add a little more camber to the front & set the toe at 0 or out very slightly & set the toe at 0 in the rear.

Other than that, coilovers are the only other way to go.
 

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06.5 TCM
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Do You have a strut brace allready? As far as frame bracing goes it will not do much for handling cuz boby doesn't really flex all THAT much in that place:look how rigid and heavy the front subframe is. It helps to relieve stress on the body in a long run, that's caused by hard driving and modded stiff suspension, extreme loads etc. Lowering is a main thing that helps handling, then tire quality and very importantly- weight distribution.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't have a strut brace. Mainly because the strut towers are basically right on the firewall.
 

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06.5 TCM
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I am saying this from experience: I have a new (under 5K) xB that is all stock. Driver's door had a squeak (door panel against an A-pillar trim). It is almost completely gone after i installed APR strut brace that i got for a totally different reason ( i needed to mount a power dist box when i moved my battery). Also every Xb deveropes a full lenght crack across the windshield once it gets chipped. The reason being not only the thickness of the glass, but also the fact that it is flexes even though it sits above firewall.
 

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hayalex6 said:
So I'm in a dilema. I already have H&R Race springs, Whiteline sway bar, and poly urethane front bushings....I still want better handling.
Additional bracing typically will only improve handling on cars with VERY stiff suspensions. They will reduce body flex, but rarely does that convert to an actual handling improvement. Additional bracing is never a bad idea, it does make the car feel more solid. In the long run, they can also prevent spot welds from weakening and cracks in windshields from spreading. Install a strut brace in a car with over 50k miles (or any convertible) and you will instantly notice a difference in how solid the car feels.

Almost every car out there has the firewall attached to the strut towers, that doesn't mean that additional bracing won't make a difference. The highest performance models of many sports cars come with additional strut braces that the lower models don't (E36 M3 Lightweight, E46 M3 Perf. Package, etc.). Here's a picture of my boss's Porsche 934 RSR Turbo under the "hood". Lots of additional bracing for a car that was "optimized" at the factory.



That being said, what aspect of handling are you trying to improve? Are you trying to reduce understeer? Are you trying to keep the car flat in corners? What tires are you running and are they your weak point?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I basically want to keep flat in the corners. Kill body roll. I really have about zero right now with the springs and sway I'm running, but less is better.

I'm running Pirelli PZero Nero tires.


btw I just saw that there's another thread on frame bracing. noob me didn't search :(
 

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hayalex6 said:
Well, I basically want to keep flat in the corners. Kill body roll. I really have about zero right now with the springs and sway I'm running, but less is better.

I'm running Pirelli PZero Nero tires.


btw I just saw that there's another thread on frame bracing. noob me didn't search :(
Chassis/frame bracing does not affect body roll at all, suspension components do. And having less body roll doesn't necessarily mean you will be "handling" any better.

With the amount of money you have to spend, I don't think there is anything you will be able to purchase to reduce body roll further. Some chassis braces may hold you over for now, but a good set of performance shocks should be your next big purchase (unless you plan on going with coilovers).
 

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you know i've heard people say that the front strut tower brace is useless and doesnt do anything because of the proximity to the firewall. I push my car pretty hard, dont race it or anything but I'll tell you I had the rear sway bar on the car before I installed the DC sports front strut tower brace and it handles better and feels alot more stable and secure into the corners. I've asked friends who ride in the car and they also say they can feel a big difference. Try getting a front strut tower brace.

btw any reviews of the gtspec or tanabe frame brace from people who actually have it installed?
 

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hayalex6 said:
So I'm in a dilema. I already have H&R Race springs, Whiteline sway bar, and poly urethane front bushings....I still want better handling.

I don't have the $$ to get coilovers, so don't even say that lol. I have about $150ish to spend

I've been looking at the GTSpec frame brace


Or the Tanabe Sub frame brace


Any other idea's for better handling? Any input is always appreciated.

I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF ANYONE HAS USED ONE OF THESE FRAME BRACES WITH A BIG DIF .. I NEED TO KNOW FOR A DIFERANT REASON..LOVE TO BEAT IT UP WITH THE SWITCHES YA KNOW:D
 

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i put a review on scionlife.com of the GTSpec frame brace...check the review parts section ...

it made a heck of a noticeable addition ..i previously only had the progress rear sway bar...
 

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TheOtherGuys
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All of these frame braces, are they made of aluminum or steel. There are two different people selling H-Braces on eBay for less than $70, they are made of aluminum. Should they be made of aluminum?

If the guy selling the Throttle Body Spacers doesn't return my email I may get one of these frame braces instead. I just need to know if aluminum is the material these should be made of.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=170040251955&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=220038845267&rd=1
 
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