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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's up folks... just wanted to see if anyone here has a technique to rolling the front fenders. I believe I have pulled the front fenders (by hand) enough to clear the tires but the lining where the two screws which attach the inner lining and the front bumper is rubbing the tire fairly hard. Anything I need to cut or grind?

I am lowered on Tanabe DF210 springs (lower in the front than usual), OTG 10mm spacer and camber shims stacked in the rear and Rota D2 17x8.5 +25 offset with 215/40 tires. The rears have been rolled enough to where they don't rub but the fronts rub harshly.

Any advice will help! Thanks!

Don't mind the dirty ride... :eek:





 

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At first, I just drove around without the screws. I don't think they even hold anything. They just keep the bumper aligned. Then, after awhile I just had all that plastic cut out and rolled the the metal a bit. I know - pretty ghetto, but it works for me and Im never gonna get a body kit or anything. I'm sure there are people on here with a much more eloquent solution - probably someone on air suspension and/or a VIP wheel setup.

3" drop on 16x9 +30 with fatty baloon 205/50s! No rubbing :p
 

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I took the splash guard bolt out and it seemed to help a lot. Had the same problem with rubbing on that bolt, and now the rub is minor on the splash guard. Definately can live with it, and it is fully drivable without doing any damage. The splash guard stays secure when the bolt is removed as it's still held in by a few clips, and is tucked under the fender lip.

From what I've been told by a few body shops is that they wouldn't recommend taking off the splash guards as water may get all trapped up into the fender well causing future problems with possible rust. Don't know if they're just being overly cautious though. Another point is that they're really isn't much to roll in the front. One other option would be to camber the front a little also. I've seen a lot of people do that to help with the rubbing. Whatever you decide to do just research before doing so. You wouldn't want to do something that you couldn't put back. How did you get the front to sit like that with DF210's? I'm on 17's also, but had to drop the coilovers down about 3-3.5" to look like that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info y'all! I think I'll try to remove the bolts and trim around a bit before I camber out the front. I already removed the bolt on the drivers side which holds the splash guard but that didn't help at all. I'll try the other bolt tomorrow and report back.
As for the fronts sitting so low on just DF210s and stock struts/shocks, well, the collision shop that did some front suspension repair work didn't reinstall my bumpstops. It made this crazy noise every time I hit a bump and would bottom out hard. I was lazy and drove like that for a few months. I finally reinstalled the bumpstops and bought new front stock struts. Next thing ya know, the springs settled or sagged that way. I'm quite happy with the drop. It's how I would have it set if I had coilovers... haha!
 

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What shocks/struts did you buy? Are they Toyota Echo specific? I know those struts will lower the front about 1/2" because of the mounting position. Or was it the spring perch position?? It's one or the other...can't remember right now, but the point is that it will sit lower when those are used over the XB OEM struts.
 

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I took that entire little plastic bumper to fender bracket out. I rolled and cut the fender at the bracket area (I only cut off the tab with the hole that the bolt went through). I also trimmed the same bolt tab off the front bumper. I am going LOW so I also trimmed the plastic splash shield right in the same area (It is formed around the stupid weak plastic bracket thing we already removed, so i just cut off the down hanging part right there. I will fill in the holes with some pieces of scrap splash shield next time I change one in my shop.). I then got a screw plate (you know those things like you use for mounting speakers that slip over the metal to your hole, get a good one speaker ones are weak), I pushed it on the fender flange that joins the bumper near the edge of the wheel opening. I marked and drilled 1 hole on the fender flange thru my clip. I then positioned the bumper in place and marked for where to drill its flange to match. Apply 1 flat head screw into your new clip through your bumper to the screw plate from the bumper side. The splash can be pulled down for access without removing it. Mine is stronger now in this area than it was with the plastic bracket and 2 bolts, and it allows me to go here:) (the wheels are 18x7.5 42MM offset with 215/40R18 tires)


For just a little more space you can also put a few shims in behind the forward fender mounting bolt that is at the side of the headlamps. This pushes out the fender a little by the fender bumper joint at the wheel opening..cant get a lot more clearance here but a little, I added about 3/16 inch of shim to each side:)

Hmmm technique for rolling...one word ...carefully.... The factory pain cracks easily as you roll the fender (at least my white did....to bad it was already under expensive candies when it separated from the metal as I rolled GR$#%^%^...but the damage was almost inside the wheel opening and touched up nicely.) People say use heat on the paint as you roll, I think this would help. I use a 1/4 rubber sheet and a flat faced body hammer on the inside and a 2x4 wrapped evenly with cloth or another rubber sheet (curves) against the outside for this type bending, simple but effective as long as you are careful and go slowly. Roll only what you need, extra bending just increases the chance for damage and gains little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Some great info right there... thanks! Your ride sits nice TerribleTed!

I bought the struts/shocks from some guy off Craigslist who works at the Toyota dealership. He said he installed some TRD stuff for a customer and kept these.

I removed both bolts and trimmed some of the plastic in that area. It helped a little bit but still rubs when driving on the freeway. I'll look into removing all that plastic crap or trimming more of it tomorrow.

Here are a few more pics of my ride. Nothing special but it beats rolling on white steelies with bling rings... :eek: I'm an idiot for washing my ride today even though I know it's going to rain. I couldn't help but see it clean for at least half a day. LMAO!





 

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looks nice!!!!! Don't be ashamed to roll on the steelies. I rocked red painted steels with bling rings for a while. Still like the look.
 

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Dude! take those wheel spacers out! then it wont rub plus it will look way better.... those spacers are for show not for function
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dude! take those wheel spacers out! then it wont rub plus it will look way better.... those spacers are for show not for function
Like Digidizzle said, no spacers in front... only OTG camber/spacer shims in the rear like I said earlier. How would it look way better if the fronts were sitting in the fender rather than flush? :confused: The way it sits right now, the front and rear rims are flush with the fender, which is to my liking.

Thanks again Digidizzle! Can't wait to see your ride dropped on coilovers with the Equips. :cool:
 

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Dude! take those wheel spacers out! then it wont rub plus it will look way better.... those spacers are for show not for function
how are you gonna say wheel spacers are not for function? theres many times people will need to run a spacer for functionality purposes. depending in the size and offset of the rim and stance to be achieved. some rota wheels require spacers to clear for proper fitment.

anyway, i really like those stockers with the beauty ring. i might have to paint up mine and rock them around for a little while. so simple and practicle.
damn i wish my 210s sat like that.
 
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