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Discussion Starter #1
Pretty simple really. But to start off, i am a complete noob when it comes to rear brakes and it seems pretty much everyone i asked is a noob as well. So with no knowledge and very little help (info over the phone), i quickly learned how easy rear rotors can be to work on....also, DO NOT USE A SLEDGEHAMMER AND FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER ON ROTOR REMOVAL!

What was a simple summer-to-winter wheel swap quickly turned into rear brakes completely locked and parking brake not working. Ok, so i try to push and it doesn't budge. I get a lower pushing stance (and actually put some shoes on instead of slippers) and the brakes went "KaChing". It rolls now but it feels like they are still grabbing somewhat and my e-brake isnt even engaged. So i jack the car back up, take the wheel off, and bang on the rotor with a hammer hoping to free the seized brakes......a few hits later they are free but no e-brake. Figures it wouldn't be that easy - so i say screw it and call it a night.

I spend the next day scanning the interweb for solutions, calling whoever i have in my phone, and the best advice given to me is bang on it with a sledge hammer and use a flat head screwdriver to pry so i can hopefully wedge the rotor off. Big F'n mistake because after banging on the rotor for 3 hours and using a screwdriver to pry, my entire lip of my backplate for drum is scarred all to hell and my rotor is banged to shiz from the sledge. which now leads me to replacing a wheel stud - seems my dumbass managed to hit one of the studs which ruined the threads! and it seems that when i said "F It" and put the wheel back on so i could drive to work, it seems i forced it on to where it will never come over without breaking it.

So now that you have just spent the last 3 minutes reading my F-up's (thanks btw), onto the pics of what i have done to correct my problem and hopefully educate some people on rotors, e-brake adjustments, and wheel stud replacements. thanks

Replacement Studs which are specific for front and rears:
Front: 10.9 266
Rear: 10.9 244


damaged stud:


new stud:


what your drum looks like off the hub:
(notice the 4 holes for your studs and the 2 extra threaded holes*important)


what i used to get drum off after sledgehammer and screwdriver:
(allen head wrench and 2 threaded allen bolts - will get details later on bolts)


basically you put the 2 allen bolts into the threads on drum and basically tighten a little at a time back and forth until it works its way off (like a fulcrum). be careful not to overtighten as this may strip what little threads you have to use to get drum off, but just a word of caution. doing it this way literally took me 2 minutes tops to take drums off compared to the 3 hrs with hammer and screwdriver, which still didnt get the job done! So there is my lesson learned and hopefully this will help someone in the future on how to remove rear drums the easy way!

stud removal tools:
(that little dinky claw hammer, PB Blaster, and impact for re-pressing bolt with lugnut)


reassemble hub to rotor, mount wheel, tighten down lugs, lower car, and your all done. i will honestly say this was so much easier then a stud replacement on my 97 S-10 i had, so much easier!

more pics of rear rotors and parking brake adjuster just for reference:




 

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06.5 TCM
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Great pics, really worthy of a DIY thread. Gen1 xB's have rear drum brakes, so it's rotors in the front and drums in the rear :cool:
 

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06.5 TCM
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That's the very reason the drums have threaded holes in them so you can brake them loose. If i remember correctly some other bolts on xB's use the same thread (may be the ones for front fenders) so you can use them to pull the drums off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
PCH - ok so from now on you are going to be my first contact when it comes to not knowing how to do something on our cars. i eventually contacted a friend who gave me a number to a Toyota Master Tech and this is how he described it to me on removing the drums!

B2finity - yep, just a typical 8mm bolt i think and you are in business for drum removal.

and sorry for any confusion on drums and rotors: 1st gens: rotors in front/drums in rears (duh)! it was late in the night and a few beers down the drain before i got to posting pics so i may have used the wrong terminology somewhere throughout this post - sorry but you get the idea right!
 

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When we were attempting to install Ichiba wheel spacers last night on my B, we noticed that there's not enough room between where the studs are attached and the back of the drum to fit the new studs. Any idea how to get them apart so we can get it done?
 

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When I installed longer studs for the Ichiba Version 1 wheel spacers we had to basically press out the rear wheel bearing assemblies to get the new studs in. Attached are pictures of the processed we used. I have read here that some guys just tapped the flanges with a hammer and the assembly easily comes out. Mine is an '06 w/ 80,000 miles and after four winters in Chicago it wasnt gonna come out easy.

You need four bolts at least 3.5 inches long either 3/8" or 7/16" and eight nuts and eight washers (1/2" wont fit into the holes) .
Orientate the hub so you can slide in the bolts at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Thread on nuts onto each of the bolts and then place washers on each bolt Put the bolts into where the old lugs used to be 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. place 2 more washers on each and thread on nuts so they are on the back side of the flange of the wheel bearing as shown in the picture. Use a wrench to turn the nuts on back side of the wheel bearing flange so that the bolts drive down and cause the wheel bearing to pull out.

There are some good DIYs here which provide the details on how to do the front and how to press the new lugs in and everything. I have never read anything on this forum on how to do what I described above. Hopefully this will save someone a bunch of time.
 

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mine had 112K and 5 winters in Wi.
so i eneded up going to local napa for them ti replace it
thanks for the pics!
 
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