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08 xB. 142,500 miles. "Loaned" it to son/DIL for 3 years (son is NOT mechanically savvy). Suddenly developed rough-running - comes n goes - oil consumption up - "misfire" and O2 sensor codes. We retrieved the car, as their local stop-and-rob Toyota dealer quoted "engine-replacement - $10,000" without investigating anything. Thinking it was coil-pack - I asked son to swap 1-2 - now misfire on 1 AND 2 (he did that before we were able to pick it up). Got it home, and compression test found #1 with NO compression at all. Hmmmm, must be stuck valve? Removed rocker cover to check. Intake cam - inner flange at main bearing boss - doesn't look like the exhaust cam. The flange - i.e., a machined part of the cam casting - BROKE OFF from it's position on the cam and wedged-open one of the intake valves in #1 (looks like a big thick "washer" flopping around on the cam). My suspicion is that it was a defective casting. There is nothing preventing "endplay" now, except the timing chain tracking with the tensioner and the exhaust cam sprocket (of course we're not driving it). Anyone ever replace cam(s) without removing engine? I'm up for trying it if I don't have to horse the engine out of there....
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08 xB. 142,500 miles. "Loaned" it to son/DIL for 3 years (son is NOT mechanically savvy). Suddenly developed rough-running - comes n goes - oil consumption up - "misfire" and O2 sensor codes. We retrieved the car, as their local stop-and-rob Toyota dealer quoted "engine-replacement - $10,000" without investigating anything. Thinking it was coil-pack - I asked son to swap 1-2 - now misfire on 1 AND 2 (he did that before we were able to pick it up). Got it home, and compression test found #1 with NO compression at all. Hmmmm, must be stuck valve? Removed rocker cover to check. Intake cam - inner flange at main bearing boss - doesn't look like the exhaust cam. The flange - i.e., a machined part of the cam casting - BROKE OFF from it's position on the cam and wedged-open one of the intake valves in #1 (looks like a big thick "washer" flopping around on the cam). My suspicion is that it was a defective casting. There is nothing preventing "endplay" now, except the timing chain tracking with the tensioner and the exhaust cam sprocket (of course we're not driving it). Anyone ever replace cam(s) without removing engine? I'm up for trying it if I don't have to horse the engine out of there.... View attachment 80847
First off, Welcome to the club! This is over my head but I will say: Yes it's easy to replace the cams- just do it with the stock ones from a Junkyard- because everything is right on top- 1.8 Tony or Superbee44 ( knowledgeable club members) probably have done this a few times.. They may chime in. And yes $10 grand for a motor is ridiculous, you can get them for $900 to $1,200 low miles at a JDM motor sales shop.... Others should chime in.. Again Welcome.
 

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First off, Welcome to the club! This is over my head but I will say: Yes it's easy to replace the cams- just do it with the stock ones from a Junkyard- because everything is right on top- 1.8 Tony or Superbee44 ( knowledgeable club members) probably have done this a few times.. They may chime in. And yes $10 grand for a motor is ridiculous, you can get them for $900 to $1,200 low miles at a JDM motor sales shop.... Others should chime in.. Again Welcome.
Thanks for the come-back - being a NOOB, that encouragement is helpful. Late yesterday, wife found a pair of cams online for $80 (she's real good at interweb stuff), and I found a pretty good how-to video, so I might try it (I'm 70 years old with gimpy knees, so that sitting on the ground and reaching past the wheel to get to crank and chain might cause me to farm it out). Wife's really disgusted with the kids - car looked brand new when we "loaned" it to them - now dents and scratches and nasty innards, and not very attentive maintenance...but she wants to drive it again.
 

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Thanks for the come-back - being a NOOB, that encouragement is helpful. Late yesterday, wife found a pair of cams online for $80 (she's real good at interweb stuff), and I found a pretty good how-to video, so I might try it (I'm 70 years old with gimpy knees, so that sitting on the ground and reaching past the wheel to get to crank and chain might cause me to farm it out). Wife's really disgusted with the kids - car looked brand new when we "loaned" it to them - now dents and scratches and nasty innards, and not very attentive maintenance...but she wants to drive it again.
Well I had my Dad's 1979 Impala station wagon and I drove it into the ground not caring about it because my Dad owned it and paid for all the repairs back in 83. Kids seem to learn to take care of things when they have to pay for it.. 😆 Let us know how it comes out!
 

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Yeah - I get it. Bought my first car (1962 Chevy II 4-door) for $225 in 1968, and I did / paid for everything except insurance - including re-ring and new crank/rod bearings. Did all my own wrenching ever since (some of it I should have left to people who know what they're doing), but now am letting others "do" instead (knees ain't lettin' me down on the floor too easily). Waiting on some more parts now. Got the cams out (and the ones from evil-bay have arrived), and now waiting on intake cam bearing. Looking from a foot away found driven-end cap really got HOT - hot enough to melt the side of the insert and the cap - friction from that flange on the cam...looking from 8" away with the close-up glasses found that the bearing insert in that cap was canted about 0.060", and covered about a quarter of the oil inlet as it comes through the cap, i.e., the oil wasn't being directed properly, and I'm guessing it was insufficient for the outer edge of the bearing surface (towards the non-driven end) of the only actual "bearing insert" between both cams. Both halves of the insert had pretty pronounced grooves inside. Can't guess if this was an improperly fitting / installed insert, or an improperly machined bearing cap, or... We'd bought it in '08 with 12,000 miles on it, and racked up another >110,000 trouble-free miles - always changed oil at 5K with 5W20 synthetic, and used WIX filters; can't get a straight answer out of the kid - who put about another 20K on it in three years. Oil change? (Not likely.) I'm hoping it all works - wife really likes driving it. To me, it's like driving a damn go-kart...if you happen to sneeze, you're suddenly northbound in the southbound lanes of a 6-lane interstate, and a 1/32" press on the gas gets you 3g's of acceleration. I'll stick to my '52 Willys Jeep or my '96 F350 crew-cab dually. :cool:
Well I had my Dad's 1979 Impala station wagon and I drove it into the ground not caring about it because my Dad owned it and paid for all the repairs back in 83. Kids seem to learn to take care of things when they have to pay for it.. 😆 Let us know how it comes out!
 
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