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Thatdapper
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Discussion Starter #22
I tried installing the spacers and between my bad back and the lack of mechanical knowledge I had to hold off. When my back feels better and I watch a few more YouTube videos I'll get back to it.
So hows your build going?

I am wondering if a spacer is needed if you just use Rav 4 struts and springs? Further will mpg be bad by lifting because we have a small tank in our cars so optimal mpg is best.
 

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Hi,
Any luck with the rear lifting ?

I just want maybe 2 inch rear lift, or moreso, some better weight carrying support at lower cost / ease of installation

SD1
 

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I just did it. RAV4 struts and springs. 2006 to 2012 parts I believe. The sway bar end links are the worst part of the whole project. My suspension is pretty blown out as well. I'm slowly rebuilding the front end. This is the only reason I decided to do this mod. I would wait till you can't go any longer on your stock struts.
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You also have to get the rear springs for the RAV4 . The rear springs are more tightly coiled than the stock xB springs. I plan on doing the 40mm spring and strut spacers as well and put some big beefy tires and 17s on it. Huge difference with the RAV4 struts. Sits alot taller. But make sure your bushings on control arms are good. Mine are due for change. Rock Auto has alot of parts. I got the struts from Amazon and springs on rock Auto.
 

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Lots o leather and copper
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You also have to get the rear springs for the RAV4 . The rear springs are more tightly coiled than the stock xB springs. I plan on doing the 40mm spring and strut spacers as well and put some big beefy tires and 17s on it. Huge difference with the RAV4 struts. Sits alot taller. But make sure your bushings on control arms are good. Mine are due for change. Rock Auto has alot of parts. I got the struts from Amazon and springs on rock Auto.
With the amount of lift you're doing you might also want to look into spacing the sub-frame and engine down an inch or so to get the axle angles closer to flat again. It'll also help on the sway bar end links, though a better solution would be to get shorter links since the mounting tab is much lower on the strut than the stock one.
 

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I noticed that the sway bar end links are about a quarter inch away from the control arms. Do you think they hit when turning?

Would u know where to get spacers? Or would putting a few shims under one side of the control arm work?
 

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Lots o leather and copper
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I noticed that the sway bar end links are about a quarter inch away from the control arms. Do you think they hit when turning?

Would u know where to get spacers? Or would putting a few shims under one side of the control arm work?
A larger issue is that if the sway bar is not parallel to the road at ride height it's not doing it's job. You can actually make new end links really easy. Get some 1/2" endlink end with 1/4-20 threaded ends, one left hand thread, one right hand thread for each side. Measure out what length end link length you need and get a appropriate length 1/24-20 turnbuckle to thread the end links into. Now you have slightly adjustable end links that are the correct length. The 1/4-20 thread size is a tight fit into the mount points but it just fits. I made a set a few years back using heim joints instead of endlink ends to even my sway bar out from lowering.

Or washers underneath the motor mount bolts? Tolift the engine up a little?
You'll need to make spacers to drop the engine and sub-frame. How far you need to raise it depends on how far out of level your lower control arm is at ride height. You want to try to get it as close to parallel to the ground as possible. Check this thread starting about halfway down on page two. The OP and I discuss making the spacers he needs to fit a 2GR-FE V6 engine in. Ideas about a 2GR-FE Swap in a XB2????

I'm don't remember 100% what he did for them as I has doing the opposite to raise my sub-frame and engine to compensate for lowering the car a lot.
 

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I have a mk3 Supra as well they are pretty short about 4 or 5 inches. Think this would work? I just checked them today and there not coming anywhere close to hitting the control arms I don't believe I'll send pics when I can
 

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Also do note that the sway bar links are the exact same length from the RAV4 to the xB. I ordered the RAV4 suspension and they are the same parts.
 

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Lots o leather and copper
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Also do note that the sway bar links are the exact same length from the RAV4 to the xB. I ordered the RAV4 suspension and they are the same parts.
That doesn't surprise me. There is a lot of parts sharing between the xB, RAV4, and Prius of these years. It does depend on where the sway bar mounts to the subframe though and how different the heights in the front knuckles are. Also just the shape of the sway bar as well since they are different. You'll need to load the suspension, position the sway bar so that it' is level and then measure the distance between the end link mounting point on the sway bar and the strut to see how long they need to be. If you plan on lowering the subframe and engine then you'll have to take that into account as well.
 

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With the amount of lift you're doing you might also want to look into spacing the sub-frame and engine down an inch or so to get the axle angles closer to flat again. It'll also help on the sway bar end links, though a better solution would be to get shorter links since the mounting tab is much lower on the strut than the stock one.

Is there anyone who has spaced the subframe? The end if the axel boots are starting to spit out a little bit of oil because the Axel's are not even now.
 

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That doesn't surprise me. There is a lot of parts sharing between the xB, RAV4, and Prius of these years. It does depend on where the sway bar mounts to the subframe though and how different the heights in the front knuckles are. Also just the shape of the sway bar as well since they are different. You'll need to load the suspension, position the sway bar so that it' is level and then measure the distance between the end link mounting point on the sway bar and the strut to see how long they need to be. If you plan on lowering the subframe and engine then you'll have to take that into account as well.

Do you know what all else would need spacers? Also I found aluminum spacers with 3/8 inside diameter and I thing 3/4 out side
I think they has inch and a quarter spacers. And I'm also thinking the exhaust manifold would have to be cut and have metal added to work. Someone also told me the steering column would have to be adjusted as well.
 

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Hi,
Any luck with the rear lifting ?

I just want maybe 2 inch rear lift, or moreso, some better weight carrying support at lower cost / ease of installation

SD1
They make helper springs. For the stock springs. They are like 100 bucks. It's like an air bag that goes inside the stock springs give 1000 pounds added towing capacity
 

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Lots o leather and copper
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Do you know what all else would need spacers? Also I found aluminum spacers with 3/8 inside diameter and I thing 3/4 out side
I think they has inch and a quarter spacers. And I'm also thinking the exhaust manifold would have to be cut and have metal added to work. Someone also told me the steering column would have to be adjusted as well.
I don't think I would want to go with only a 3/4" O.D. on the spacers. Also they just wouldn't work on some of our motor mounts. Did you look through that build link I put up? He made spacers for the motor mounts for lowering the engine. This should take car of the exhaust reaching. As for spacing down the subframe, no, I don't know anyone who has done it. Shouldn't be too hard though, it's only 4 bolts. For the front, taller mounts I would just make sure the spacers were as wide as the flat top on them. For the rear mounts it would be a little more tricky. Looking at my spare subframe I would say you want a mount that seats in the flat area next to the mounting hole and also the angled portion next to it so that when you bolt everything up it gets sandwiched between the subframe and the chassis like it normally would be when mounted up there. Then you just need to drill a hole through it for the bolt to go through. It would need to be made out of a block of aluminum to do it but the angles and hole locations aren't difficult to make, just need a variety of cutting tool to do it.

As for the steering column, yes. Once you space all this down it'll need to have an extension either bolted or welded on to it. I doubt it has enough play to reach otherwise.
 
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