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Well I ordered my first suspension upgrade last week. Thanks to eBay I found a Megan Racing Strut Bar for 50 bucks brand new. http://www.ebay.com/itm/180754672973?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_4059wt_1037


Instructions from Megan Racing are well written but lack certain details. Things such as what all is involved to remove the bolts on your struts and what tools you need. What our gonna need to do this install are simple hand tools, a 12mm open-ended wrench/box wrench, Phillips screw driver, flat head driver, 8mm Allen wrench, 10 and 12mm sockets.

my 12mm open-ended/box wrench is a nice lil piece I picked up from Harbor Freight that ratchets and bends *great for getting in tight places*. You will need to pop your caps off your wipers(if you have them still T...) this is where your 10mm comes in handy because you have to remove them both. When you get them out of the way use your flat head to remove the 2 plastic clips on each side of the cowl piece. Then use the Phillips driver to remove 6 screws in the base of the cowl. Pull it off and your ready to get into the "dirty" stuff.
Again use the 10mm to hit the first bolt on the wiper motor mount on each side of the engine bay. By removing this you can access the rear nuts for the struts.


you only have 6 12mm nuts to remove in order to drop the ends of the strut bars on. Put the nuts back on and torque them back down. You twist the bar onto the threaded studs on each strut tower.


When you go to re-install the cowl piece put the drivers side on first because there is a plastic tab that the passenger side pops into.

Quick shake down proved that if you enjoy spirited driving and are on a budget this is a mod you need to have. At 65 bucks shipped to my door it was money well spent. Taking curves at 60 and it staying flatter than the stock suspension setup... On a scale of 1-10 for the install I put it about a 7 because of how much time it takes, and having the right tools does help so if you are missing one of the tools I mentioned hit up Harbor Freight or Northern Tools for a quick tool grab..

---------- Post added 12-12-2011 at 06:49 PM ----------



Notice how the head on the ratcheting end pivots...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
no i bought the car in Chicago and it sat up there while i was over seas.... i know the **** is bad and im looking into replacing each piece with either custom made brackets or OE parts...

---------- Post added 12-12-2011 at 07:02 PM ----------

ask anyone about average car life in chicago.... its horrible
 

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Ill go ahead and tell you its not CF.... its a heat shrink that looks like CF that they have on their... honestly just get the polished Megan Racing one for your box man... it will look really sharp on your box and i could tell a difference. it wasnt as "sloppy" as the oe setup... now team this up with my Raceland coilovers im getting soon and possibly some better sway bars it should handle like its on rails... now if i can find a deal on a rear bar ill be set
 

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jpfxB
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kinda figured not fo realz cf,ur right the sticker will probly peel. I put poly stabilizer end bushings in when I went moar lower this last go around......whole new beast.
 

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thanks... its not the color i thought it would be... shoulda just got the Polished one but hey the magenta really shows off my tough guy side...
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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I'm going with the hotchkis front and rear when I get around to them...

Sent from the toilet, bed, garage or road using Tapatalk
 

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Great write up! I have a Tanabe strut and I can say that it does improve handling a whole bunch more. These are worth getting for those cheap prices!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks... I read reviews on the 10 dollar ones and 200 dollar ones and really it comes down to how much you wanna pay for something... granted the triangulated ones do better but for the price I'm happy

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How does the rear strut work in improving the handing? Does it tie the two shocks together in the back? I'm interested now since I've never seen this piece before. I can understand on the 2nd gen xb's, and any TC since they have Struts all the way around. The closest thing I've seen is the frame brace that goes across the two pillars on the interior.
 

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jiko shiki
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How does the rear strut work in improving the handing? Does it tie the two shocks together in the back? I'm interested now since I've never seen this piece before. I can understand on the 2nd gen xb's, and any TC since they have Struts all the way around. The closest thing I've seen is the frame brace that goes across the two pillars on the interior.
Yes, one common version goes across the two shock points.

Here's another version

You may be also thinking of the rear sway bar which mounts under the car. It ties the suspension together. The rear strut bar doesn't effect the handling as much as you'd think. The front strut bar makes more of a difference because the xB is a unibody car and the front is the weakest point needing stiffing up. The rear is connected around the body so not so much moment happens. But go for it dude!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
it connects the two towers together... and when you switch to coilovers the rears go from a spring and shock setup to a coilover... same principle as the front and on others.... the 2 little caps in the cargo area cover is where the bolts that hold the rear springs in place are hidden... if your into the performance aspect these two pieces are damn near mandatory, even show worthy at times....
 
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