[ericym0514]

Hello fellow scions! i recently bought a 2006 Scion XB and i am not to impressed with the soundsystem. i was wondering if anybody knew a type/size of speaker that could be replaced without tampering with the stock head unit? just cut wires and reinstall better speakers in the dash and doors (maybe even the truck speakers too).
I also have a self powered sub i will post link for specs on. it has a sub rca size input and a volume knob.. already amp built into the box with port and original power supply plugs into a wall outlet. I only bought it for 20$ so i figured it would be a cheap addition to new speakers all around.
Any help would be apreciated ive never messed with car sound systems before so any advice would be nice. if sub will not work maybe some space saving/cheap ideas for a sub install.. dont want anything bigger than one 10inch woofer nothing crazy just want smooth sound. THANKS!
Link to Sub:

YST-SW012 - Subwoofers - Speakers - Audio & Visual - Products - Yamaha United States

 

[Icedragon]

While I can't comment about the hardware, I'd check the head unit's settings before messing with much. Press the SSP and pick Feel. Then press and hold the silver SSP button again until it beeps, then you can choose to set it to tC, xA, or xB. When I got mine it was set to Neutral/xA and everything sounded awful.

 

[ericym0514]

thanks.. i already set it to XA(which sounded the best) played with the EQ's and got it sounding the best it can but it still sounds bad.. nothing bass under id say 100Hz barely and they more you turn it up the thinner it sounds

 

[rton20s]

Eric, first and foremost we need to know what kind of budget you have for upgrading your speakers.

I will tell you right now that almost everyone is going to recommend that you throw a cheap set of 4" coax on the dash and another set of cheap coax in the doors with flimsy speaker "adapters." While this works, it certainly isn't your optimum choice.

If I were in your shoes, I would build some quality baffles for the doors out of HDPE or bedliner coated MDF and install some nice 6.5" midbasses. In the dash, I would go for a tweeter that can be crossed over really low, or more likely, a nice >4" full range driver that can play will up to 20 kHz.

A combination such as the would make a big difference:

A pair of these in your doors...
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/

A pair of these in your dash...
https://www.parts-express.com/faita...rofessional-full-range-woofer-8-ohm--294-1101

Along with the baffles/adapters you would need to build, I would order these up at the same time to make installation easier...

Door Speaker Wire Adapters...
Metra 71-035LC Speaker Wiring Harnesses For select 1992-up vehicles ? adapt new speakers to the factory wiring plugs at Crutchfield.com

Dash Speaker Wire Adapters...
Speaker Wiring Harnesses For select 1996-up Lexus and Toyota vehicles at Crutchfield.com

"Bass Blocker" High Pass Capacitor for Dash Speakers...
Amazon.com: PAC BB5PR Bass Blockers for 3.5 3 1/2 Inch Speakers4Ohm or 8 Ohm BB-5PR: Everything Else

These are both reasonably priced, high efficiency drivers that should perform well enough off of your factory head unit and will still do great if you decide to amplify them later. I would also consider a high efficiency component system in place of the drivers recommended above. On a tight budget, I would look at the JBL P660C.

 

[ericym0514]

i really apreciate all the feedback! the jbl component looks nice but ive heard just installing a tweeter in the dash as aposed to a coax. or would you leave the stock dash speakers and do an additional tweeter instal from the component?
my budget is fairly limited considering there are more important things on the car i need to take care of but eventually i require good sound lol
for my needs i think i would be easiest to get something that would work without getting a new head unit for now and something that i could connect to existing speaker space without doing any modifications again cause of money and not being all that familiar with car systems.. and down the line perhaps get a 10inch sub box somewhere not taking up space maybe at the feet of the middle seat in the back/underseat/ or in storage space in cargo area. thanks again

 

[rton20s]

With either of the recommendations I made you would completely remove or at least disconnect the factory dash and door speakers.

Also, don't bother trying to use the Yamaha house subwoofer.

 

[Zman]

A good headunit, decent 4 channel amp, tweeters, and 4 6.5"s will go a long way.

 

[UV7]

A good headunit, decent 4 channel amp, tweeters, and 4 6.5"s will go a long way.

BIG TIME!
A decent aftermarket HU will blow your mind at how much of a difference is made. For a lot of people, just this change makes such a huge difference that they don't bother going beyond it. For the average everyday driver, this is plenty. Honestly, I'd start there unless you're absolutely mindset on using the stock HU.

 

[ericym0514]

so i bought a component system.. alpine s type pretty affordable.. installed 6.5's in the doors and intalled the tweeters above the 6.5's in the door next to the door handle.. it looks and sounds fantastic!
now i still might buy a under car seat sub enclosure.. but my buddy suggested to me that if we put the same component system in the back trunk area i wont need a sub.. (ive heard people have fit 6.5's in the back speaker area even though they are 5.5' stocks..) and install the tweeters up above on the side panels.. not sure what i will do next! i could always get a new head unit too cause even with the volume all the way up its not extremely loud.. well see thanks for all the feedback yall ill keep ya posted!
-eric>

 

[rton20s]

To put it bluntly... your buddy is wrong. The addition of a typical 6.5" component set in the rear is not going to be a decent substitute for a dedicated subwoofer. They are designed to do two completely different things. A subwoofer picks up the lower octaves where a typical component or coax speaker leaves off. And this one may be a bit surprising, many aftermarket component sets have WORSE midbass perfromance that stock units!

If you're looking for a reasonably priced shallow mount subwoofer for under the front seat, I would take a look at the new Dayton 10" shallow sub. The sub is great in a 0.5 cubic foot enclosure with about 350 watts behind it.

Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm

You'll need an amp that is capable of 2 Ohms mono to drive it. I would consider a 5 channel amp so you can power your subwoofer and your components at the same time. If you're looking to go cheap, something like any one of these "clone" amps (same guts, different brands, different heatsink) would do...

Soundstream PN5.640D Picasso Nano 640W 5-Channel Class-D Amplifier

Precision Power PPI i640.5 iON 640W 5-Channel Class-D Amplifier

Dual DA560D 790W 5 Channel Digital Compact Series Class D Car

I won't jump into head unit recommendations unless you decide you want to go that direction. But, I will say that both Pioneer and Alpine have some decent options at very reasonable price points these days.