Ideas about a 2GR-FE Swap in a XB2????
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Unbolted East/West mounts and allowed front trans mount to drop onto crossmember. Then trimmed lip on intake manifold that was hitting drip tray. Removed studs for intake, this gave me 1/8" clearance. Reinstalled studs after sliding intake into place. Now have to make spacers to fill gap in East/West mounts. They also sit at an angle. Got to think about this.
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Sounds like it might be best to do the opposite of what I'm doing and lower the sub-frame a inch or so.
Longer bolts and spacers for the sub-frame mounts would work down below.
Same for the passenger side mount. They would have to go between the mount and the bracket that bolt to the engine.
The driver's side motor mount can be slotted on the body side to drop it down. You can even weld, or bolt, an extension to the top if you need to.
Front mount you would need slot the mounting points on the engine side, or possibly make a new bracket.
This would get you the clearance up top that you need for the intake and rear exhaust manifold. You'll lose some ground clearance doing it of course but as long as you don't try to slam it you should be ok. If possible I would see is you can raise the lower control arm mounts on the sub-frame side to keep the suspension geometry as close to stock as possible, otherwise if you lower the car it it'll be getting even further out of wack.
Longer bolts and spacers for the sub-frame mounts would work down below.
Same for the passenger side mount. They would have to go between the mount and the bracket that bolt to the engine.
The driver's side motor mount can be slotted on the body side to drop it down. You can even weld, or bolt, an extension to the top if you need to.
Front mount you would need slot the mounting points on the engine side, or possibly make a new bracket.
This would get you the clearance up top that you need for the intake and rear exhaust manifold. You'll lose some ground clearance doing it of course but as long as you don't try to slam it you should be ok. If possible I would see is you can raise the lower control arm mounts on the sub-frame side to keep the suspension geometry as close to stock as possible, otherwise if you lower the car it it'll be getting even further out of wack.
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I had thought about spacing the cradle, but then realized it might cause issues with attaching the steering shaft to the steering rack. The rear exhaust manifold won't work without some serious mods. The trans tunnel on the RAV4 was taller and wider because of space needed for rear driveshaft and exhaust system. Maybe one from a Camry might work. I'm trying to procure materials for spacers to use on East/West mounts. Also still trying to find a 2 core radiator with trans cooler. Have only found them without cooler. Fun never ends.
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I suspect it's just because of fitting the V6 in there and the intake is not oriented anything like the stock one. Are you talking the intake manifold or the plastic intake? If the plastic portion you could just make your own intake and not deal with the stock one at all. After all it's only tubes, a filter and somewhere to mount the MAF packaged up in a way that Toyota decided would work best for the car they designed it for. All that goes out the door when you started putting the engine in a car it wasn't built for. If it's the intake manifold that's a whole other story. Can still be custom fabricated, but it's a lot more time and work. I know, I've still got all the parts to fab a new manifold waiting for me to design it sitting on a shelf in the garage.
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