Scion xB Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,909 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do y'all clean your xB's for shows. I always work really hard to not have streaks on my car but I always have them on there. :( How do you get your B's to shine really purty?? And with no streaks?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
I have been showing cars for years. Streaks where??


We start cleaning by washing the exterior, engine compartment, door and trunk jambs. We then dry exterior and jambs with a leather chamois. Thorough cleaning of wheels tires and wheel opening also at this time. Work the washing by doing jambs, wheels and engine compartment first, then washing the exterior (top down) (rewash the wheels).

Next: Interior totally vacuumed, mats out out show mats in their place. All interior plastics wiped down with protectant of your liking (I have been liking F21 recently it is in a bright green bottle maybe eagle brand). Leather freshly dressed with good conditioner ( I use Meguires....A good brand btw for all the products for your car). Glass then totally cleaned with paper towels and good window cleaner (try Invisible Glass it rocks!!) Inside and out (have a single edge razor blade for stubborn spots on the glass...4/0 extra fine steel wool also works great for overspray and stuff on the glass...just do not use steel wool or a blade on mirrors..soft glass scratches on those). Check all shiny interior surfaces (gauge faces, chrome etc) for streaks smears and smudges and buff off with a soft cotton cloth (we use 100% cotton T-shirt material).

Now on to the exterior, which hopefully has dried some by now (many polishes do not like water during application, if yours is one of these you need to wait till all water is gone from trim edges etc before polishing or you will get streaky results). First we look closely at the entire exterior for missed dirt, smudges bugs etc and use appropriate products to remove same. I like PPG DX440 grease and wax remover for removing many road associated grimes (tar, road paint, glues, guts, etc). Doesnt hurt automotive paints and works well at removing a lot of stuff. Bug and tar remover works also and for certain spots can be better but sometimes this product has a bit of abrasive so be careful if it does (too much abrasive rubbing can cause a dull spot). Next we polish the car with our favorite wax. I have used Meguires Gold Class and liked it alot but it doesn't last long. A couple years ago I ran across a product called Vitreo. I get it from my Body shop paint supplier. It is not retail marketed to my knowledge. It gives a nice deep streak free shine that lasts thru multiple washes (I found the Meguires to fade a bit after only a couple washes). But regardless of which product you use follow the directions on the product. Generally do not polish in the direct sun ( a hot surface streaks easy), go inside or in deep shade under a carport or tree. Apply a fairly even coat of polish (most products say allow to dry to a haze which means you can only get about 2-3 panel applied with polish before where you started is ready to remove). Do not get polish on black trim. Use a soft terry cloth for polishing the wax. Go buy a high quality 100% cotton bath towel, feel them in the store get the softest one you can find (get 2 of different colors one for intial polishing and one for final , if you see a super fine soft weave towel this can be very good as a finish towel), you can wash them in fabric softeners to get them even softer. Use 1 towel (intial polishing) to start buffing off your wax till most of an area is looking shiny (maybe just a but smeary still), then finish polishing the area with the other towel. I always use the same towel for initial, and the other for final. The story is that you build up quite a bit of polish as you start buffing the wax off, this eventually starts getting redistributed off the towel making it harder to polish streak free, thus 2 towels. Of course clean these and soften them as needed. Last we polish any chrome and recheck the glass...and then go to win a trophy!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
368 Posts
OK since you, like myself, that have the "original RS 0.1 color" here is what I do.
1) wash car using Palmolive dish soap, small sections at a time, rinse with water as I go along.
2) dry off using a chammy, being gentle
3) clay bar, again 1 section at a time until the whole thing has been done
4) if any scratches are found lightly polish them ( usually the whole fender,hood, or what ever)
5) rinse and dry it all again ( I know, I'm picky)
6) wax, I prefer a natural carnuba wax. and again taking my time, 1 section at a time. buffing it as I go. I usually put 2 coats on.

May seem like work, but hey I got plenty of time. It takes me most of 1 day.
I use micro fiber towels ( must have a dozen) for everything, only using clean ones for each section. It come out so shiney you can read a newspaper in the reflection.

I can't tell you what products to use, or claim what is best as to brands. This is just my anal way to keep my Camo Metallic looking better than new.
 

·
NEXT LEVEL MOTORING
Joined
·
3,810 Posts
Frogbox, shine that baby up like if its a golden calf!

no doubt, you gotta keep that RS1 shinny and sparkling fine. we're the very few proud owners of the very first of the Limited Edition Series.

i use plenty of water, Turtle wax carwash, nice soft giant sponge (sea sponge like), lather it up as thou im saving, use plenty of water to rinse suds, while its wet, i spray on "Eagle One" Wet and Dry spray wax, then wipe down with a neoprene chamois.
then i use a thin application of "Eagle One" tire gloss to give that new tire look for my hard working tires.
i pop the bonet, and shine up the treasure that lies underneath that beautiful carbon fiber, and treat it like no ones bussiness.
interior.......how can i even do any better? the BRIDE seat sitting in the RS1 says it all. NO Cleaning Required.
spray a little hint of "AXE" body spray, and yur done.

well, the last part is not needed. :p
 

·
TheOtherGuys
Joined
·
7,988 Posts
I use car wash soap only, dish soap cuts grease and also cuts wax. It will strip the wax off your car quicker.

And I love micro-fiber towels.

This is basicly what I do:
Wash from top to bottom with a big sponge and car wash soap. Dry from top to bottom with "theabsorber". Then pop the hood and all doors, wipe clean and dry everything all the jambs you can get, then I take the damp micro-fiber and wipe down all the motor stuff. Vacuum real good and wipe the inside out with damp Micro-fiber as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,923 Posts
May I offer this small suggestion. If you keep your Box clean and shiny on a regular basis (inside and out) the preparation for a show is so much easier.

I clean my engine compartment every time I wash the Box, on average two times a week. I clean the door jams including hinges every time was as well. My rims are cleaned twice on each wash job including the inside of the rim and behind the spokes. The wheel wells are cleaned and suspension parts accessible are cleaned as well.

Twice a month I raise the Box and clean the under side. I wash the underbody lights, the frame brace, the underside of the motor and trans and the suspension parts.

I clay the car two or three times a year and apply wax as needed, on the average twice a month. I never use dish soap or any harsh detergents. I only use micro fiber towels to wash and dry the Box. My windows are cleaned with micro fiber towels as well.

The interior is cleaned using only a damp micro fiber towel and no form of "treatment". The entire interior is vacuumed at each wash and more often if needed. The vacuuming includes all carpeted areas, seats, rear cargo area, under seats, in all door pockets and handles. Each of the window/lock switches are cleaned at each wash as well.

This sounds like a lot of work but if you keep up on it the time spent is minimal. The amount of work required to get ready for a show is greatly reduced and the efforts are noticed by the judges. Those of you who have seen my whip in person know what I'm talking about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,923 Posts
im taking my ride to TAZ for some TLC! (Taz Loves to Carwash)

BTW, HAPPY BIRTHDAY TAZ!
Thank you Sir. Kelly got me a Mr. Clean car wash system for my birthday...


Here's my impersonation of the nozzle! (damn margaritas!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
368 Posts
Thunder, I have a rs0.1 ( hehe a little joke about the camo metallic being a rare bird in these here parts)

And as for using dish soap to wash, yeah it strips the wax, thats why I use it. It gets all the dead wax off. As long as your doing a full show worthy detail job, why not strip the old wax?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,909 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the advice everyone. I think when it gets warmer outside (it's 36 degrees right now) I'll give my car a good cleaning and wax. I gotta get him lookin purty for World of Wheels in February.
 

·
Hmmmmm
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
for me, well no shows yet.
Step 1....pick up phone
Step 2....call my friend
Step 3....hand my keys
Step 4....hand money
Step 5....Watch the shine!
laziness
:p ;) :D :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,923 Posts
for me, well no shows yet.
Step 1....pick up phone
Step 2....call my friend
Step 3....hand my keys
Step 4....hand money
Step 5....Watch the shine!
laziness
:p ;) :D :cool:
I couldn't do that, nobody washes my Box but me. One time in Vegas was all it took to swear off letting anyone else touch it. Even though I can get it professionally detailed at my girlfriends work for free, I don't...I'd feel like the Box was cheating on me. :eek:
 

·
NEXT LEVEL MOTORING
Joined
·
3,810 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,042 Posts
One thing that helps keep the spider webs down is to pat dry your car with microfiber towels. I have a BSP, so every little streak stands out. I was my car weekly in this order:

1. wash the wheels/wheel wells (with a different mit than what is used for the rest of the car) That's usually the dirtiest part of your car, so you don't want to track dirt/debris in the mit that can scrartch your paint.

2. Clean off all the bird junk, sap, and whatever else is difficult to get off with Mother's California Gold detail Spray. I do this before I wash with soap because bird junk has sand/dirt in it that can scratch your paint if rubbed off. By soaking it with detail spray it comes off with minimal rubbing. It's also less to worry about once you soap up.

2. Fill up two seperate clean wash buckets. One with the soap of your choice and wash mit. I use Mother's California Gold soap with a sheep skin mit. The other bucket with plain water that's used for a rinse bucket.

3. Rinse you box from the top down, so the dirt runs down the vehicle. The very bottom of your car is the dirties from picking up all the road gunk, so you want to rinse top down so none of it gets tracked up your car.

4. Soap her up! Once again starting from the top down, so not to track dirt to already clean spots. I soap up one side at a time, and rinse the mit in the clean water bucket in between panels to get all the dirt out of the mit. You'll see how much dirt is washed off in the clean bucket once your done.

5. Rinse off. Once again from the top down to rinse the dirt down onto the ground.

6. Take your nozzle off the hose and turn down the pressure to a medium stream. Rinse the car off with a slow stream of water. This makes a sheeting action, and pulls a lot of water off the car making it easier to dry.

7. I then use an air compressor to blow all the water out from all the seams/trapping spots.

8. Dry the car using microfiber towels. Fold it into a square, and "pat" dry the vehicle. The pat dry method leaves no streaks since you aren't pulling the towel across the paint.

9. Dry all the door jambs, and wipe out the engine bay.

10. Then I use Mother's FX spray wax to "boost" the wax already on the car for a nice finished shine :)

I wax using Mother's FX wax every 8 weeks, use the spray wax as a booster after every wash between waxes, and clay bar twice a year.

For the inside it's the usual vaccum, dash wipe down, and window wipe down.
Like Taz said: If you keep up on a cleaning schedule then it takes minimal work to clean for shows.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,335 Posts
I'm glad I have a TCM, I haven't seen a streak yet, the only thing that gets me is the spinoff from the tireshine. it sometimes won't come off with spraying and brushing, so i hit it with the microfiber and call it a day. I also use Superclean on the wheels and tires...

to clean my engine bay I use armorall first the cleaning(purple container) then the protectant(yellow). To clean the windows, i spray superclean on them to get all the stubborn deposits off them let it sit while i spray the wheels then rinse off. Because of the crappy water, i ALWAYS dry my windows first always. When i get to the show i usually have a few big splats, so i first spray them with superclean then rub with microfiber then use the armorall glass cleaner(blue) I also wait till I'm at the show to spray tireshine. I lay down a towel of some sort so you don't get that mark left when you do. Oh and remember(depending on the type) always clean tireshine overspray from wheels...if not the dust will build up more in that spot. I need to clay mine, but I usually just wash and dry with The Absorber. i rarely vaccum...wipe the inside with armorall cleaning then the protectant, then the microfiber so it soaks up all the excess. instead of a shine it looks clean and new.
 

·
Hmmmmm
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
I couldn't do that, nobody washes my Box but me. One time in Vegas was all it took to swear off letting anyone else touch it. Even though I can get it professionally detailed at my girlfriends work for free, I don't...I'd feel like the Box was cheating on me. :eek:

I wouldnt trust anyone other than me, (well i dunno taz you could..lol), to do it but me. Hes a professional detailer and i usually watch him do it and hes great!
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top