Scion xB Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I added a new thread since we were hijacking the "Fastest n/a auto including dyno" thread. Sorry again for that killerxromances!

Rollhard asked:
1. What does the kit come with? Can I use my factory sensors?
2. What sensors do we need to buy?
3. Is there a wiring harness available for the car?
4. How does it work in conjunction with the stock ECU?
5. Will the CEL still work?
I still haven't gotten a reply from the place I tuned it at. But I can answer some of those:

1. I actually got the E6X Short Kit w/ Short Harness. From the haltech website, that comes with: ECU Programmable Computer, Programming Cable, Short Wire Harness, Programming CD, Instruction Manual on CD and Haltech Stickers.

2. On the invoice the only sensor that it looked like I needed to get was the air temperature sensor.

3. The short kit comes with a short wire harness.

4. That I don't know. :confused: Do you mean if the Haltech is plugged into the factory ECU? Ie. if the Haltech sends or receives signals to and from the factory ECU?

5. I guess so. Rollhard, as you saw in the post I put in another thread, now that I replaced the speedometer/odometer/trip computer assembly I do have 3 indicator lights that are always on. The VSC, traction, and CEL. I have no idea what the CEL is though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
preacherboy said:
I added a new thread since we were hijacking the "Fastest n/a auto including dyno" thread. Sorry again for that killerxromances!

Rollhard asked:


I still haven't gotten a reply from the place I tuned it at. But I can answer some of those:

1. I actually got the E6X Short Kit w/ Short Harness. From the haltech website, that comes with: ECU Programmable Computer, Programming Cable, Short Wire Harness, Programming CD, Instruction Manual on CD and Haltech Stickers.

2. On the invoice the only sensor that it looked like I needed to get was the air temperature sensor.

3. The short kit comes with a short wire harness.

4. That I don't know. :confused: Do you mean if the Haltech is plugged into the factory ECU? Ie. if the Haltech sends or receives signals to and from the factory ECU?

5. I guess so. Rollhard, as you saw in the post I put in another thread, now that I replaced the speedometer/odometer/trip computer assembly I do have 3 indicator lights that are always on. The VSC, traction, and CEL. I have no idea what the CEL is though.
You know, I just tried something yesterday. And I did so only because I now have the larger injectors. I tried to run my car on the stock ECU to see if the CEL, VSC, and Trac light came on. Of course the car didnt drive well at all since it was running so rich without Emanage tuning. Anyhow, the 3 lights came back on. Here is my guess. I read on the SL forums once that this girl had the same problem and it turned out to be a trac control sensor that was bad. Now, that sensor needs to be removed when replacing the clutch so there is a chance that it might have been damaged while changing the clutch. That is one of my guesses right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You know, I just tried something yesterday. And I did so only because I now have the larger injectors. I tried to run my car on the stock ECU to see if the CEL, VSC, and Trac light came on. Of course the car didnt drive well at all since it was running so rich without Emanage tuning. Anyhow, the 3 lights came back on. Here is my guess. I read on the SL forums once that this girl had the same problem and it turned out to be a trac control sensor that was bad. Now, that sensor needs to be removed when replacing the clutch so there is a chance that it might have been damaged while changing the clutch. That is one of my guesses right now.
The only thing about the trac control sensor for my car is that there is no way for me to know if the traction indicator light was on before I changed the clutch or after especially with the "black tape" mod that was on there, remember?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I tried resetting the ECU via the EFI fuse, but those indicator lights were still on. Oh well, I don't really mind, I just ignore it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Yeah, I agree, I should at least see what the code is and see if it is something I need to worry about or not.

BTW, where does the OBDII scanner plug in? Is the connector on the ECU itself?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
preacherboy said:
Yeah, I agree, I should at least see what the code is and see if it is something I need to worry about or not.

BTW, where does the OBDII scanner plug in? Is the connector on the ECU itself?
its to the left under the steering. Kinda on the right side of where the front hood latch is. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You know I asked the dealership about checking the CEL and they said they charge $80! But supposedly it's a lot more detailed than say Autozone. I'll probably go the Autozone route and see what they say...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I think the codes are standard for every car (not just scions) the code that it will output at autozone is the same thing that they will get at the dealer.

The difference would be that at the dealer they know what to do from there, whereas at autozone they probably don't know the specifics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So the dealership doesn't have "special" equipment that gives more detailed results? The dealership I talked to was really trying to sell me their $80 diagnostic. But I was like...uh, I'll think about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
The dealership can get more detailed information out of the computer than some one using a generic code reader can. They can run function tests and other things that you can't do with a generic scanner. If you disconnect the battery and the light goes off for a while its a soft fault if the light goes on immediately then its a hard fault. A hard fault is when something is physically broken like a wire or a sensor is damaged or disconnected. A soft fault is when the computer looks sees its bad checks it again sees its still bad then makes the light go on. If you found a wire disconnected then plugged it back in the computer would have to go through so many drive cycles before it would shut the light off on its own.
I used to work on Fords so my terminology may be a little off but its all similar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you disconnect the battery and the light goes off for a while its a soft fault if the light goes on immediately then its a hard fault. A hard fault is when something is physically broken like a wire or a sensor is damaged or disconnected. A soft fault is when the computer looks sees its bad checks it again sees its still bad then makes the light go on.
Oh, I didn't know that, thanks for the info. Maybe I'll try that out.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top