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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I never thought I would be interested in adding any camber to my ride since I'm not JDM or VIP style. Since adding the air suspension to my Box I'm having some front fender issues. Rather than cutting out the liner and shaving off some body parts I was thinking about using the camber bolts for the front and plates for the back.

Since I have no experience in this department could someone explain how the bolts work? How do they make the camber change?

Where are the rear plates installed at?

Eric, Scotty you guys probably know more about this than anyone...what's the scoop?
 

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NEXT LEVEL MOTORING
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me engrish not soo good, preaze check this rink. sank you!

Front Camber bolts install

Rear Camber shims install

Camber is the tilting inward or outward of your wheels. When the top of the wheel leans inward, this is negative camber. When the wheels lean outward it is called positive camber, and when the wheels are exactly perpendicular to the ground it gives a zero setting.
Camber is not always a bad thing, negative camber aids handling and a small amount will not increase tire wear substantially.

This is with the -3 OTG when i had them last year.


This is with the difference between the -3 OTG and -5 GARSON
OTG -3OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOGARSON -5





 

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Plates for rear are put where the OTG shims go on the rear hub assembly. Basically on the ends of each beam back there. Fronts, there are camber bolts, but I wouldnt recommend those if you're having issues. Most youll pull outta those is probably -1.5 or -2. (even if you use multiple bolts I would be suprised to see more than -2). If you wanna camber fronts, get Cusco camber plates and get the -3 degrees of camber. Those are mounted at the top of the strut in the engine bay area.

Thats a basic run down from my perspective.

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Plates for rear are put where the OTG shims go on the rear hub assembly. Basically on the ends of each beam back there. Fronts, there are camber bolts, but I wouldnt recommend those if you're having issues. Most youll pull outta those is probably -1.5 or -2. (even if you use multiple bolts I would be suprised to see more than -2). If you wanna camber fronts, get Cusco camber plates and get the -3 degrees of camber. Those are mounted at the top of the strut in the engine bay area.

Thats a basic run down from my perspective.

Scotty
Since my upper strut mounts are flipped I won't be able to use the Cusco's. I'm not clear on the amount of camber...-1.5 equals how much in inches? I only need 1/2 inch clearance when the bags are aired all the way out. Really don't need it at all in the rear, just thought I'd match the look so it wasn't just the front.
 

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Taz, on most xBs I have seen w/ air, you'll need at least negative 1.5 degree bolts or plate up front to being the fronts back to zero. The Cusco camber plates are direct replacements for the top hats. If you have modified tops hats, it may be a problem.

The rear camber plates are as others have explained. A word of caution though. When using the OTG rear sspacer shims, some have reported that the e-brake is not as strong as before. When I had the OTGs in before I went to camber, mine worked fine, but, a few have told me the e-brake wasn't effective anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Taz, on most xBs I have seen w/ air, you'll need at least negative 1.5 degree bolts or plate up front to being the fronts back to zero. The Cusco camber plates are direct replacements for the top hats. If you have modified tops hats, it may be a problem.

The rear camber plates are as others have explained. A word of caution though. When using the OTG rear sspacer shims, some have reported that the e-brake is not as strong as before. When I had the OTGs in before I went to camber, mine worked fine, but, a few have told me the e-brake wasn't effective anymore.
So using the 1.5 will only bring me back to "normal"? That sucks. I didn't notice that I was +camber, I'll have to check that. My upper strut mounts are flipped inside the engine compartment so they have to stay. Looks like I'll be doing some trimming in the wheel well after all.
 

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Yeah Taz, most of the xBs I've seen had around +1.5 degrees of camber. But some set-ups can use the Cusco camber plates, and some can't. I'm not too well versed in air ride, and hopefully others can chime in some info.

Oh, and with the bolts, see if they can be safety wired. When I had some on my 76 Celicas back in the day, they would come out of adjustment every month. It was probably mainly due to the poor road conditions up here in the Bay Area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the quick replies and info guys. I'll take a look at the fronts tomorrow and see if I'm sitting pos or not.
 

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I would be willing to bet that you're in between 0 and +1 on fronts. Rears of course, youd be at stock which rounds up closely to -1. If you're doing the rears just to match, you could get away with sole camber plates up front and try pulling them to -1. I cant guarantee thatll clear, but itll be close i bet. Im not down with the geometry of it, but I can imagine 2 degrees difference from what you are will be close to making it clear.

Scotty
 

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Taz - Just get out the plasma cutter and get to work...... You'll be happier in the long run (and richer since you won't be buying tires every 6-8 months)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Taz - Just get out the plasma cutter and get to work...... You'll be happier in the long run (and richer since you won't be buying tires every 6-8 months)
Fire that puppy up and start cutting!!!!!

:D
 

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are you suppose to use two bolts on each side up front
You can buy a set of bolts that does -1.5 degree and there is another set ive seen that does -2 degrees. This is a set of two bolts, one on each side. More can be achieved by using two on both sides but unless you are doing it strictly for looks, up to 2 degrees negative will be fine for good handling on the street
 

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I used one bolt (lower) per side and got -2.9º on both wheels, per the laser readout at the alignment shop. the bolts were supposed to top out at -1.75º. man, I love the handling upfront w/ the camber... and the look.
 

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Please excuse my ignorance, but do these camber bolts cause any extra stress on the bearing in the upper mounts? Any binding or excess wear? Has anyone noticed a reduction in steering response?
 

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Please excuse my ignorance, but do these camber bolts cause any extra stress on the bearing in the upper mounts? Any binding or excess wear? Has anyone noticed a reduction in steering response?
"i" havnt had any wear/binding at this time, exception to the tires thou.
the steering is a tough call, since i have the 310mm steering wheel.
 

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Taz, any word on how things are working out?
 
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