[BSPToaster]

I just got some 6.5 Type S for my two front doors and I was looking for some tweeters what size fits good and also do i have to make some kinda a custom holder?
Thanks j.t.

 

[misformartin]

tweeter

alright well in the dash you can fit any size tweeter you want i think the speaker in the dash in 3 inch.... not sure... but you going to have a hard time to find a tweeter that is going to just drop in... you will need to fab some baffles... out of mdf.....

 

[short bus]

i think ts 4 or 4 1/2 i think there is a post on it

 

[Rodek]

4 inchers for sure. I put some in mine. They bolt right up.

 

[short bus]

FOUND THIS TID BIT IN A SEARCH
stock is like 2 inch dash 6.5/6.75 front and then 5.25 rear


you can easily fit 4 inch in the dash , 6.75's in the doors, and 6.5's in the rears.

 

[BSPToaster]

ok thanx every one... and misformartin sorry for blowing up at you the other day i was just haveing a crapy day

 

[misformartin]

no worries

no worries man sry for be an asshat with those posts.... i was also having a really bad day my bad bro

 

[Tomas]

Easiest upgrade is with Pioneer TS-G1040R 2-ways. They fit the existing mount/space very well.

Tomas

 

[Trek777]

Will those sound better than something being sold as just a plain tweeter?

 

[nippon]

it realy all depends. if you are getting a full set of componets that is the best you can do. you can easly make a plate out of plastic for the tweater to fit in the 3 1/2 speaker compartment on ur dash. you can find this kind of plastic at your nearest car audio store or installer. to cut the pastic into shape is to heat it up with a heat gun than cut it with tin snips that is the easiest way.

 

[ThunderGod]

one more idea for ya.
tweeter mod

 

[ThunderGod]

Easiest upgrade is with Pioneer TS-G1040R 2-ways. They fit the existing mount/space very well.

Tomas

thats nice

 

[Tomas]

With those TS-G1040R Pioneers, it is a good idea to have a 'bass blocker' (high-pass filter - capacitor) with maybe a 150-200Hz cutoff in series. That's not so much to protect them, but to reduce the low frequencies that a little 4 inch can't handle without distorting. Makes 'em sound better at high levels...

Tomas

 

[BSPToaster]

well i got these will they fit alrighht i dont know cause my car is at the shop thats why i ask http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod...d=33&family_id=14&item_id=101629&locale=en_US

 

[Tomas]

In physical layout those 4" Fosgates is nearly identical to the Pioneers I mentioned above. They even have the foldable/break-off mounting tabs (easiest to fold two of those back to allow an easier fit).

The biggest thing one needs to watch out for in stuffing any 4" in there, is the tweeter on some sits up too high and won't let you put the OEM grill back in place on top of the dash... Those Fosgates look OK.

Enjoy!

Tomas

 

[BSPToaster]

YESSS THANX!!!! so my sound system is done now all i need is my car back to put them in.

 

[mike_szam]

i have 3inch didnt know 4inch would fit thats crazy

 

[Tomas]

Er, one thing I forgot to mention, and really need to, is that the replacement Pioneers I used are 4 ohm speakers, and the originals are 13 ohms. What this means, in a practical sense, is that plugging these 4's into the connectors the old ones plugged into puts them in parallel with the front door speakers.

With the change of impedance, there is a shift of the percentage of power delivered to the dash and front-door speakers. No longer is the sound balanced properly - the speakers on the dash will be too loud, and the ones in the door will have the power to them reduced. (Don't worry about how this works, just trust me that it does, and that it can even be proved from the schematic.)

So, what does one do?

One needs to put about 7 to 9 ohms of resistance in series with the dash speakers to re-balance the system.

I prefer the sound to have a little more 'presence' and for the dash speakers to be a little more obvious, so I picked up a couple of 10 watt, 6.8 ohm resistors at Fry's Electronics. (If you want the dash speakers to be a little more muted than that, use 8.2 ohm resistors - that will make their level match the OEMs pretty close.)

I glued my 6.8s to the back of the speaker magnets and hooked 'em up between the speaker's hot lead and the red lead from the speaker connector I ripped off the OEM speakers.

If you don't do SOMETHING to reduce the level of the dash speakers, they will be much too loud and the door speakers will be almost unheard.

Hope this helps!!!

Tomas

P.S. I'd totally forgotten about the resistors I added until I just took one of the dash speakers out to find out what was 'buzzing' behind it - one of the resistors had come adrift - I hadn't glued it down quite well enough and it was vibrating against some underdash plastic. Trust me, it WILL NOT come lose again.

T

 

[AirecK]

what about if you are going to run an amp to all the speakers....
would i need to run these resistors... or will a shop already know trhis and fix it them selves???

 

[Tomas]

what about if you are going to run an amp to all the speakers....
would i need to run these resistors... or will a shop already know trhis and fix it them selves???

If you are using the stock wiring and OEM door speakers, you need to add the resistors to keep the dash speakers that *I* used from drowning out the door speakers.

If you use DIFFERENT dash speakers than I did, the resistor value MAY be different (overall dash speaker plus added resistor should be about 12-14 ohms).

If you are replacing ALL the speakers, that may change, but you will probably need some sort of resistance to balance the levels. Depends on speaker efficiency and impedance, but the objective is to get the levels of the dash and door speakers roughly equal at the listeners ears.

If you are not using the stock wiring layout, you are on your own, just remember that the dash speakers need to be about 5-6 dB lower in level than the door speakers for more or less proper balance at the listener.

One last thing - if you are putting out substantial power to the dash speakers you may need to add a high-pass filter (capacitor) with about a 100-150Hz turnover to keep from toasting them...

Hope that helps explain a bit...

Tomas

P.S. If a shop knows what they are doing, they should have no problem figuring all that out.