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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The sway bar bushing that come standard on the xB leave more than a little to be desired. They are small and compact easily leaving slack and play in the sway bar end links. This DIY will show you how to replace the stock bushings with new and better polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension.

PLEASE READ AND FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY. I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU SCREW UP YOUR CAR. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS...ASK ME!

You will need the following tools to complete this DIY:

1. 10 mm wrench
2. 12 mm wrench
3. 12 mm deep socket
4. 9/16" wrench
5. 9/16" deep socket
6. Energy Suspension Performance Sway Bar End Link Bushings
(part no. 9.8105R) Available at Auto Zone among other places
7. (2) Grade 8 bolts size 3/8" X 4"
8. (2) Nylon Lock Nuts size 3/8"
9. Lubricating grease

First either jack up your vehicle or use ramps

If using a jack on your vehicle always use a jack stand before getting under it.

Locate the stock sway bar end link assembly and notice the condition of the bushings. (these only have 18,000 miles on them)



Now remove the stock bushings by loosening the two 12mm nuts. You can do this easily by holding the top nut with a 12mm open end wrench and turning the bottom nut with a 12mm deep socket.


To remove the top nut, use a 10mm open end wrench and hold the stock end link bolt while turning the top nut with a 12mm open end wrench.

(You can also use a pair of vise grips to hold the stock bolt while turning the top nut but I found this way to be easier)

Unbolt both sides of the sway bar end links to ease in the removal of the bolts. I did not remove the wheels when I replaced mine.

Here are the replacement end link bushings from Energy Suspension:

I purchased them from Auto Zone for $13.00. You can find them at other auto parts stores and on line as well.

Here are the replacement bolts and nuts. I purchased these at Home Depot. You can find them at any home improvement store or hardware store.






Notice the difference in size between the stock bushings and the replacement Energy Suspension bushings.


Before reinstalling the bolts, nuts and bushings in the end link, you may want to apply a small amount of grease to the bushings to prevent any squeaking noise where the bushings rub against the end links.


All greased up and ready to go


The installation is just the reverse of the removal. Place the new bolt in from the top with a washer, a bushing...the sway bar...a bushing, a washer, a washer, a bushing, the end link, a bushing, a washer and the nylon lock nut.

Tighten the lower nylon lock nut by using an open end 9/16" wrench on the top of the bolt and a 9/16" deep socket on the bottom. Tighten the bolt until the bushing starts to compress just a little.


Here is the end result, a much stronger set of sway bar end link bushings.




I would like to mention that if you can't find any Grade 8 nylon lock nuts use a Grade 8 nut and then use the 3/8" nylon lock washer for safety.


The total cost of the modification was less than $17.00. I found on the test drive that the front end felt much more secure and there was less tracking on the grooves in the road. This is how the front suspension should have felt from day one in my opinion.

If you have any questions regarding this DIY feel free to send me a PM.
 

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RADIER HATER!!!
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Looks like you have some time off....... everytime you have time off we get good DIY's.... Keep up the good work and I'll have to add this to the "To do list."
 

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Discussion Starter #3
EticketXb said:
Looks like you have some time off....... everytime you have time off we get good DIY's.... Keep up the good work and I'll have to add this to the "To do list."
That reminds me, the total time spent doing the replacement including set up, clean up and road test was 1 1/2 hours. :D
 

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TheOtherGuys
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I just got mine in the mail yesterday, perfect timing TAZ! Thanks
 

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Remember everyone: USE GRADE 8 BOLTS! If you use anything less, then you run the possibility of breaking the bolts, and then you'll be fubar.
 

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TheOtherGuys
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I bought the set mentioned in the other thread with the whole assembly, bolts and everything.
 

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Nor*Cal's Most Hated
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Taz, looks like you may need a 1/2 inch spacer(give or take) between the group of bushings. The measurement for the OEM links where the bar and lower control mount is greater than the measurement on the Energy bushings.

NICE write-up BTW!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
squirrel said:


Taz, looks like you may need a 1/2 inch spacer(give or take) between the group of bushings. The measurement for the OEM links where the bar and lower control mount is greater than the measurement on the Energy bushings.

NICE write-up BTW!

No spacer needed. Look at the difference in size of the stock bushings and the new ones. The larger bushings take up the space that was left open by the old bushings.


*Chris, if you use the whole kit from Energy you'll need to cut off some of the bolt end at the bottom. It is longer than you need. That's why I went for just the bushings and washers, the difference in price was significant enough to go with the Home Depot bolts and nuts.
 

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TheOtherGuys
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TheOtherGuys
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With a bigger difference between the mounting areas, wouldn't this cause a little more pressure, meaning a little stiffer? I don't think it would cause premature limpage in the bar...:)

It looks like our spaces are different Taz by atleast an inch.
I'm going with what I have. I'm thinkin' it will handle a little better than just the bushings them selves. I might have to load them to get them bolted up, thats it, I might.
 

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I bought what you did Padanky. You don't use the spacers, and you need to get a shorter bolt like Taz posted. It will not work properly if you use them with the bushings, it will change the geometry of the sway bar.
 

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TheOtherGuys
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Alex, do you have yours installed?
 

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TheOtherGuys
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Darren, do the ones I have look too long?
 

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mertechperformance
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i have the same size and yeah they look longer than stock but it really doesnt change the geometry too much by having a longer one. and the 1 inch is what is listed for our cars.

but if you have no spacer lik taz's then the inner bushings rub on each other and I KNOW that it's too short. that lower control arm and sway bar look damned close so close as that the sway bar looks liek it'll hit the control arm in turns.
 

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hotbox05 said:
i have the same size and yeah they look longer than stock but it really doesnt change the geometry too much by having a longer one. and the 1 inch is what is listed for our cars.

but if you have no spacer lik taz's then the inner bushings rub on each other and I KNOW that it's too short. that lower control arm and sway bar look damned close so close as that the sway bar looks liek it'll hit the control arm in turns.

Alright, Thanks. I'm still going to use them like they are.
 

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TheOtherGuys
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I'm thinkin' it will stiffen it up a little more with the 1" spacer, could be wrong.
 

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Stock height would be no spacer, as Poly bushings don't compress like the stock rubber ones. I have been running no spacer and a shorter bolt like Taz for a couple of months, and haven't had any issues.
 
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