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before i post this DIY, i'd like to ask the admins to make this post a "members only" viewable thread if it's not already so that the setup is exclusion to xB owners and not public eyes.
 

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damn, ok well here it goes then. lets hope thieves aren't smart and do research on how to steal things.

ALRIGHTY, first, tools...

ratchet wrench, 14mm socket, phillips screw driver, mini flat head screw driver, dyk plyers, lots of small zipties. needle nose plyers.

supplies needed - amplifier installation supplies such as main power cable, remote wire, RCA cable, speaker wire and so on. *upto* a 4gauge half inch power connector (x2), electrical tape and large zipties.

the idea - an amplifier installation so stealth, it looks stock.

*WORD OF THE WISE, if you are not experienced with amplifier installations or any kind of electrical work, i advise against doing this your self and recommend you find someone with experience. this installation requires both bassic electrical knowledge and basic upholstery skills and patients. i am not held liable for any injuries or damages that may accure in the process of this install.*

REQUIREMENTS - please note this only works with those who have amplifiers that fit the size criteria of 16inches in length, 12 and a half inches in width and thickness of upto 3inches. amplifier also must not be under heavy load and should only be used for daily listening due to cool restraints of the setup. *the best way to go is use an amp that is within the 60-100% more power capacity than that of your combined total RMS capability of your subwoofers. this will ensure low running temps from the amplifier.* also note that it is probably recommended that owners who do this weigh no more than 180lbs if the shell of the amplifier isn't built stronge *if installed on the driver seat, weight should still be noted on passenger seat aswell* otherwise the weight can cause some amplifiers to bend, warp and crack.

INSTALLTION NOTE! - be sure to pre-tune your amplifier / audio system before doing this install. this will be a nearly permanent setup and you wont be able to reach your adjustables without having to tare half way into the seat again to get to your adjustables. so be surre to pre-tune your system ahead of time and get it just right.


First, we're going to need to pull the front seat out. doesn't matter which one, both are suitable.

you'll need to flip the seat upside down and take the cover closest to the door side of which it came from off.




next, the lower flap of the backrest will lift over, you'll see some little metal rings. you'll need to snip these off. there are three outside and three inside. after the first three, the inside three will be viewable and accessable.

outside three here *one in the middle too*


inside three here *one i the middle too*


after this set, you'll be able to expose half of the needed area that we are working on.



next, on the front side of the back rest are two metal rings, once again they need to be cut in order to expose the rest of the room we need.

left side *between the bucket edge and middle backrest cushions*


right side *same thing*


now on the back side again, we need to take off the little useless hanger on the back of the seat. use a phillips screw driver for the screw on it and then pop the hang hook down and give it a pulling tug towards you and it'll pop right off.

once off, you'll be able to expose the full area *picture shown before taking the hanger off*


now, given you have the right amplifier size for the project, it should sit nice and snug right in the cavity of the seat.




once the amplifier is mounted into the seat. simply lift the seat back in and bolt it down. i sugjest roughing the rear single bolt mount area up and use that as your grounding point. tuck, wrap with electrical tape and weave your cables and wires in there and then make sure you've pushed them far to the side so that you can get the button of the backrest cushion back in *didn't mention this before but gives more room to work with as you do the install*. once done, you'll need to use those small zipties *use the large ones to mount the amp to the metal necking back rest support inside of the seat* to ziptie the upholstery back to the points where it was originally secured with those little metal rings. i suggest using 2 zipties for each point to make up for strength differences. you'll need that half inch wire ring connector to bolt down securely to your grounding point of the seat. it may be a bit of a pain to do it, but give it some juice and it'll fit in snug on the bolting point. make sure to wrap up all the cables into one main line of cable with black electrical tape and then form the giant cable mass to the side of the same mounting point you use to for the grounding point. if done right, it will look stock and noone would be able to tell the differenct.

once done, you should be able to stand back and not even notice a single wire or anything. do know though, the cloth on the back isn't all that thick, so if your amp haas any LED lights on it's top side, there is a chance it will shine through if it's bright enough. mine don't... if they are too bright, put some electrical tape over the top of them while doing the install so that it blocks the light.

the finished product should be like this



 

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Discussion Starter #5
that's in the installation notes. you need to pre-tune the system before hand. the practicality of the idea is more than worth it after tuning is done.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
aint it! i caught my self staring after a few minutes thinkin "damn... that's clean".

great idea...but doesn't seem very practical. what if you need to make adjustments? you aren't concerned about heat?
i know i already replied to this but the mentioning of the heat issues is covered aswell in the "requirements* section.

just make sure to have your amplifier selection done by the pro audio rule of thumb *amplifier should be of at least 50% more capable power production over RMS power of given driver. driver is 500watt RMS, amp should be at least 750watt capable*.

my system uses *as you can see* a JBL BPX500.1. it's set on bridge for 2+ ohm resistance. it's ACTUALLY seeing 2.4ohm purposely from the wire i used. i used a thinner gauge but did 3 strans of each polarity to increase the ohm rate via cable resistance due to efficiency problems that the BPX500.1 has at running at 2ohm. instead of it's normal 75-79% efficiency, it drops to around 58% efficiency at 2ohm. at 2.4ohm it's roughly 70% again.

also, the power capability at this point is about 690watt. the subs are 150watt a piece and are more than happy seeing around 220 which is about as much as they'll take before there's voice coil slap. you also have to figure in the cresting factor during musical play and whatnot... but with the tuning it's at, the amp probably doesn't feed much more than around 280-320watt at max volume and hardly gets luke warm for temp at that point. so technically i'm sitting with an amp that is 120% more power capable over the subwoofers. this is why i suggest this on the "requirements* section so that you don't need to worry about heat.

with what i have, i hit roughly 121db at pink tuning point of 34.8hz at max and for musical play i get a pretty decent punch in the chest... that's all i need. and outside of the xB, you can't hardly tell that i have subs at all, barely any bass sound outside.

---------------------------------------------------

and lastly, after checking some measurements, amplifier length my be upto 18inches. any bigger and you'll have problems getting your wiring done.
 

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That' very clean man, been trying to think of places to mound my cheap/ugly/old amp. Did you look to see whats inside the back seats at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The amp fits nicely. Does the seat get warm from it?
hardly, like i mentioned above. my amp produces 120% more power than total RMS power that the subs can take, so it's not even breaking a sweat to power the subs i have. it got luke warm before when it was mounted to the bottom of the seat. i haven't ran it hard like i normally do justt yet to really know how warm it gets but i HIGHLY doubt i'll feel anything at all.

That' very clean man, been trying to think of places to mound my cheap/ugly/old amp. Did you look to see whats inside the back seats at all?
can't do anything to rear bench seat. the backrests are formed with big metal sheets. once you pull the carpet off the back, it's all sheet metal.

the lower cushion though, it's REALLY thick. you can cut a section out to put a wooden shell for an amp to be hidden in there but that's a bit of work compared to what i did. i helped a buddy do a settup like that a while ago. we cut a section out and made room to fit a JBL BPX2200.1 which is roughly 23inches in length. he's since gotten rid of his system due to money issues and replaced the lower cushion with a new one.
 

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You may want to look into a cooling fan, despite your amp being 50% greater power rating than your subs it is still going to get hot on long drives. Even some CD players heat up their dash surrounds when on for hours. You have no air movement over your amp heat sinks.

Cool clean install but only good for shows and short drives in my opinion.
 

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It does look cool (does that count since you can't see it) but I'm of the same opinion as a few others here. Air flow is key to keeping that amp cool. I'd be very watchful of the temperature inside that seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i've had the system playing at max for the past 5 hours. barely gets warm at all. heating isn't an issue what so ever.
 

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i've had the system playing at max for the past 5 hours. barely gets warm at all. heating isn't an issue what so ever.
Seems like the seat insulation/cushions is holdin in the heat therefore you can't really feel the full temp impact on the outside. That's a big azz JBL, I'd keep an eye on it if I were you........
No Capacitor ?
 

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Yeah, caps are pretty much obsolete man, a batcap 400 is supposed to be like 100 1 farad capacitors.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i've had this sucker cranked and pumping some real output... not once have i had a problem. the cloth on the back side is actually very free weaved so the heat goes right out.

you'll never have a problem with dimming if your alternator can take the load. since this system doesn't have much of a load, i don't have any dimming problems. it's just a siimple daily system that will touch the high 100-teens for decible levels. good enough for a small kick and ease listening.

i'm going to change things up later though. i'm moving from the set of 8's to 4x 10inch subs. still made by Tang Band but they are 10inch neo version with much higher efficiency and lower extension. the power requirements are lower to 120watt a sub *down from 150watt*. voice coil is larger and the best part, they still only require about the same amount of air space that the 8's do. all that plus the sense of knowing that i can get the same sound output with about half the power needed and about the same air space used for the enclosures and when powered to full rms, i go from a projected 114db average to 126db average with only 480watt average pull.

frequency range goes from 35hz-120hz playable to 23hz-120hz playable.


also, because the JBL BPX500.1 has some weird efficiency problems when running on in the 1.8-2.3ohm range *which is what it's running now, it gets around 54% efficiency*. this setup will be putting it to around 4.4ohm which will cut down on alot of the heat production that the amplifier is making currently even though it's not an issue. efficiency will skyrocket back upto about 78-82%. i'm also thinking of taking the acrylic window that the amplicier has and drilling large diameter holes in it to help further keep the heat down. in the future i'm going to use preferated sheet metal, cut a small opening in the cloth and have the sheet metal vents shown on both seats when i have the fullrange amplifier aswell. somewhat contridicts the stealth characteristics of the install but will add a touch of detail to it. again, heat proven not to be a problem at this time.
 
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