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I have a brand new 3yr battery with a 12/21 sticker on top and a voltage gauge having 13 when starting and 14 while running. car is parked on cement and has no corrosion and/or rust issues. it has 5 more ground points than it came with....additional body ground, alternator, head, block and fuel injection grounds less than 2 years old. Doesn't seem a voltage thing would be temperature related either. more like would be all the time.
Why did you add those extra grounds?????? I'm in South West Florida... 2 months until it gets warm... Where are you??? If tomorrow the DASH BLINKS again, I'm going to Reset the ECU and Discharge the Capacitors..... Only
because there are YOUTUBE Videos, suggesting this CURE to unexpained BLINKING DASHes. (and it is easy)
I know someone, who might know someone, who might be able to give US a DIAGNOSIS. It may be weeks until I
see him. Have you ever just left the DASH BLINKING, without starting the XB, and seen how long it blinks for????
Will it ever stop BLINKING, if you do not start the CAR?????
 

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had ground wire kit laying around that wasn't used on my Mazda.
had ground wire kit laying around that wasn't used on my Mazda.
O.K. I'm convinced it is NOT a battery or alternator problem..
I bounced this off of two guys who have worked on boats and cars for 50 years each and
first thing out of their mouths was corroded ground wires. DAMN.
I'm still hoping the guy I know who restores classic cars for a living, has a better idea.
If I had easy access to the plastic wiring connectors near those BLINKING DASH lights,
I would take them apart, look for anything cruddy looking, and snap them back together.
I guess I would start with the backside of the dash and work towards the fuse panel......
I wish I had a large wiring diagram, and could tell where every BLINKING thing has a common feed.
I'm not giving up.......
 

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45 degrees this morning.......no blinking

58 degrees this afternoon........no blinking

Anytime this has happened it has been below 40 degrees early in the morning leaving for work. Supposed to be 40 tomorrow so we'll see what happens then......
 

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45 degrees this morning.......no blinking

58 degrees this afternoon........no blinking

Anytime this has happened it has been below 40 degrees early in the morning leaving for work. Supposed to be 40 tomorrow so we'll see what happens then......
I should be careful what I wish for.......
I do have the 2005 SCION XB Factory Repair Manuals, and a 200 page ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAM.
The COMBINATION METER (Dash Gauges) has a CPU controlling it, and uses BROWN 21 as it's main GROUND.
So... is there a GROUND problem or is the CPU acting up????????
 

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pandora also has a box.......

Yeah, I have the wiring diagram too....figuring it shows a triangle or similar symbol at the end of that brown wire. Let us know when you find out where that brown wire actually grounds. Under the hood is one thing but doubting there is corrosion or loose ground in the dash.
 

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62 after work.....no flashing

wet or dry irrelevant. 12.5 volts on acc, 14.0 or 14.1 when first starting up and 13.8 after driven a bit. never been a battery light. no check engine or other lights. just maintenance any time it happens and speedo light and clock flashing if parking lights on when it happens.
 

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37 this morning and, flashing. Since buckling seat belt makes flashing stop, I am going to buckle it before starting car next time is freezing and see if it still happens......which will be after work today.
 

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OK.....34 after work so I buckled seatbelt before starting the car but it did nothing to stop flashing from happening. Flashed anyway like usual because under 40 degrees and car had cooled down since driving to work this morning. Stopped after 2 minutes or so like it always does.
 

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I have been told it is an ECU problem....the problem is simply the ECU is cold and needs to reach a certain temp before going to "normal". I do not know if it is true but heard this from a guy whos Honda does the same thing and he took it to the dealer and that is what they said....so take that with a grain of salt....
 

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Could be an ECU thing, could be a socketed plug creep thing. The actual fingers in the plug socket could have flexed enough that on cold days, the shrinkage is just enough to break physical connection by less than a hair. the coronal effect allows electricity to arc, making the connection while generating heat, causing the metal to expand, the arc gap to shrink, and then connection and it's good again. The draw of the engine sputtering pulsed heat through all electric circuits, then a restart with warmed circuits had it running. I'd treat it as a unknown issue with past experience being electrical and cluster being key points.
 

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O.K. I'm convinced it is NOT a battery or alternator problem..
I bounced this off of two guys who have worked on boats and cars for 50 years each and
first thing out of their mouths was corroded ground wires. DAMN.
I'm still hoping the guy I know who restores classic cars for a living, has a better idea.
If I had easy access to the plastic wiring connectors near those BLINKING DASH lights,
I would take them apart, look for anything cruddy looking, and snap them back together.
I guess I would start with the backside of the dash and work towards the fuse panel......
I wish I had a large wiring diagram, and could tell where every BLINKING thing has a common feed.
I'm not giving up.......
see my reply on the other thread
 
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