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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Due to very tight budget with my first "new" car purchase and the abilty to design parts in 3D + having a mini machine shop at work created this.







This is the "prototype" I wanted to do a fit/design check before I spend more time on detailing the bars. Simple design, all my measurements were correct so both bars were installed in under 5 minutes. I havn't had a chance to do a stress test in my 3D software but I'm sure flexing is minimal. Bars are made of T6061 billet alum. Front bar is .75" thick and the rear is .50" thick. I'm sure I can make the rear stiffer with the matching thickness as fronts. I was origanlly worried about the front because when the idea came to me, I really didn't look at the mounts, I was concerned that mounting it only to one point would put more stress on that mount, but after looking at the mount, I noticed there was a spacer plate that linked all three mounts together so all mounts flex at the same rate.

Test drive shows that the stock tires suck. I can hear the tire loosing contact, but yet hold a predictable line. This enough shows that the bars are serving their purpose. I will do a mini canyon run by my work for more testing under stress.

Parts were designed in about 10 minutes for both (with machining drawings) and fab took about 30 minutes for the rear bar and less then 10 for the front bar. We had to mill the .75" thick alum down to .50" over the spane of 43"x 1.5" wide. Best part was the price:D
 

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mertechperformance
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only ting is te rear bar does nothing. at least te rear bar i have on mine seems to do noting but kill trunkspace. lol
 

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I like very VERY much. Powder coat it after its redesigned and BAM custom fabricated Struts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I can take it off at the meet and do a quick check. I'll bring my 12mm socket. I'll have a better idea of the fitment with your intake so I can see if I have to work around it:D

I have another idea of how to make the front bar stronger but will require alot more time on the mill machine:D Now that I'm thinking about it, I can prolly get around some of it with the band saw, and trim it to spec with the mill.....hum
 

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jsigone said:
I can take it off at the meet and do a quick check. I'll bring my 12mm socket. I'll have a better idea of the fitment with your intake so I can see if I have to work around it:D

I have another idea of how to make the front bar stronger but will require alot more time on the mill machine:D Now that I'm thinking about it, I can prolly get around some of it with the band saw, and trim it to spec with the mill.....hum
Cool! We'll check it out tomorrow night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I made a small change to the design. The rear bars will look like this after they are done.





I'm making some for some fellow club members, if you're intersted, let me know.
 

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jsigone said:
I made a small change to the design. The rear bars will look like this after they are done.





I'm making some for some fellow club members, if you're intersted, let me know.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
the Rear Bars will be going for $60+ shipping. I'm still waiting for a few more tools to round the edges and a ball mill.
 

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Just a thought about the rear bar. I would get some of those urethane bushing for the top of the rear shocks that would take out some of the play at the top. They are available at almost any auto supply (get a brand name). They should come with the heavy duty washers. Now in stead of mounting the rear bar on top of the shock nut as pictured. Mount it directly on top of the top washer on the shock. This will allow the bar to be much thicker at the mounting point thus eliminating a weak point. NOW, if you really wanted to do a trick set up I would stick with the 1/2 inch bar but instead of reducing the ends in thickness I would keep the full thickness. I would machine the two holes to match the curvature of the washer that goes over the shock bushing and then eliminate the use of the top washers. This will allow the bar to become as one with the top of the shock. I don't think you would need more then the 1/2" thick bar if you are using 6061T6 at 1 1/2" wide. Milling the bar thin and the rubber shock mounts may allow for enough movement to bend or crack the bar. Just how I would make mine if I had the use of a small shop. One note, you want to make sure the urethane bushings fit the hole in the top of the shock mount properly, no play.
Allen :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
urethane idea isn't bad but in a sence you want to eliminate movement, not add a bushing on a bushing. As for as the strength of this bar, I really don't think that will be a problem. Here is a image of the bar under a deflection of 4.9" inches one way (which should NEVER come close to). The red spots show the weakest spots of the design, but the part will not fail. With the software I use, anything under rank "1" will fail and it will show it, this part was ranked "2003" I think. I have the info saved at work. Basically the software allows me to enter the material type, mounting points, load and direction and it will calculate the structural integrity of the part under load/flex/stress.

 

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I did not mean to imply that you would retain the old rubber bushing but replace them with the urethane bushing. I kind of took it for granted that it was clear, guess not. In your stress test did you figure in that the cars can bounce around a lot hitting pot holes and going down dirt roads. This could cause the oppisite ends of the bar to be pushed and pulled in all directions? Just looking at the ends of the bar scare me as far as being able to take any real abuse. A lot of my experance comes from the marine industry where you have a high performance boat bouncing across the water at over 70MPH. If there is a weak link it will show up when you least want it to. I would rather have an ugly bar that would never let me down than a pretty bar that I could not trust. Again my thoughts.

By the way, it is nice to see someone building their own stuff rather then paying the high price some of these aftermarket manufactures are charging. Next the underbody braces right? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
For some reason I was thinking that you were talking about putting the bushing into hole of the strut bar. To replace the upper stock bushing completly would be great because it pretty soft. Not sure though if I can find something that will fit and do the job intended for. One option is to make my own urethane bushing. When I was into racing cars and my turbo eclipse, we made our own urethane motor/tranny mounts. I'm sure I can do the same for the xB. I can mill a 2pc mild for the bushing, fill it with automotive urethane and let cure then remove from the mold. I will have to do some HW and see waht material I can use that doesn't bond to urethane.

In the software I directed the load to be displaced in all directions. I'm not sure if it can do twist test. I will have to see.

Future plans? Make a engine cover that doesn't cost $150-250 bucks CRAZYNESS. I wonder what Injen's mark up on that stamped pc of metal they sell for that much. Maybe an underside brace of some sort. I like the tanabe design.
 

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damn id totally be in if we could get a rear functional brace for the rear. :(

looks like itll look pretty at least though!

scotty
 
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