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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is not a new DIY but threads on here and on SL are dated and mostly address problems with hose degeneration under the hood associated with purge valve, purge valve fail, purge valve electrical connection fail and gas cap replacement. The guide used for this thread is dated thread without pics on SL forum......


So I decided to try this before droppin coin on a new canister. Did it without removing the canister like the guy at the end of the linked thread says he did. The rubber line connecting to the steel line from canister going to the purge valve under the hood was old and crispy so it got replaced as well as putting hose clamps on large hose down there. Jacked up driver rear of vehicle and this is what you see before disassembly and after reassembly....

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle

Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior Gas
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design Automotive exterior



So I removed the small crispy hose going to purge valve and the large hose from the VSV then used a small screwdriver to get under tabs and open them up in order to remove valve body, o-ring, valve seat and spring. This is what it looks like after removing the VSV.

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive lighting

Vehicle Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting


Note the outsy nipple on the white part. The insy part of the valve seat faces it.

Grey Hat Audio equipment Button Wood


Here are the parts inside...housing, o-ring, spring, valve seat........

Body jewelry Audio equipment Font Circle Cable


Automotive tire Circuit component Audio equipment Rim Cable


After cleaning out some dirt from face of valve left on car and ring groove on housing and washing off all the parts, time for reassembly. I used hi-temp red rtv to fill ring groove and smear small amount on rest of face outside the ring groove. Again, very small amount. Not enough to get squeezed into valve area. Place oring in groove and press it lightly into the rtv. Next you have to finesse the spring and valve seat back into correct position before bending the retainer tabs back into place. There are 2 tiny tabs on the valve housing that need to be oriented horizontally like the were before. Check all this out before putting rtv on and test fit parts back in place so you know how they go and feel good about the spring and valve seat being in correctly. You can check by holding it together with one hand and sticking your pinkie into the large housing hole to feel the outsy nipple on valve seat being centered. You will need some big Channel lock pliers to make squeezing tabs back into place easier. Lock down all 4 tabs, recheck valve seat centered with pinkie and then reconnect hoses. You can leave the end of the large hose away from the VSV unconnected, start car and blow into it to check function. If blocked then good to go, if you can push air through without effort then it is not together correctly. I blew into it without car running and could but with car running I couldn't. You could easily tell the difference. If good hook that hose back up and call it good.

I have not completed the whole drive cycle but have gone far enough to have pending codes and I don't so I am hoping this is fixed. I will report back after drive cycle is complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Nope, P0442 pending after driving another 8 miles this morning. Swapped to spare purge valve and swapped to new gas cap I had already bought and reset code. Dunno what to do next at this point. Will suck to put new charcoal canister on and still have same issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have until the end of August to figure it out before my registration expires. Need inspection to get that and it won't pass with CEL....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
they can see if it has been reset and drive cycle incomplete and won't pass it......

bought new charcoal canister and still had pending codes 0442 and 0456. the new oem gas cap seemed to click to soon without tightening as much as the old one so I took the new oring seal off the new cap and swapped it onto my old cap and have no more pending codes and no ce, trac off or vsc lights. I had checked the filler opening and it is smooth and clean. My old gas cap seal didn't appear cracked anywhere but it wasn't supple like the new oring is. Hoping my fun with this is over.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So far, so good.....did notice that I did not have to hold gas nozzle up at certain angle so it wouldn't keep cutting off during fillups. It swallowed up all 8 gallons in one shot. So maybe the new charcoal canister is helping out......like to think so based one the 2 bills spent on it.
 
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