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This is not a new DIY but threads on here and on SL are dated and mostly address problems with hose degeneration under the hood associated with purge valve, purge valve fail, purge valve electrical connection fail and gas cap replacement. The guide used for this thread is dated thread without pics on SL forum......
So I decided to try this before droppin coin on a new canister. Did it without removing the canister like the guy at the end of the linked thread says he did. The rubber line connecting to the steel line from canister going to the purge valve under the hood was old and crispy so it got replaced as well as putting hose clamps on large hose down there. Jacked up driver rear of vehicle and this is what you see before disassembly and after reassembly....
So I removed the small crispy hose going to purge valve and the large hose from the VSV then used a small screwdriver to get under tabs and open them up in order to remove valve body, o-ring, valve seat and spring. This is what it looks like after removing the VSV.
Note the outsy nipple on the white part. The insy part of the valve seat faces it.
Here are the parts inside...housing, o-ring, spring, valve seat........
After cleaning out some dirt from face of valve left on car and ring groove on housing and washing off all the parts, time for reassembly. I used hi-temp red rtv to fill ring groove and smear small amount on rest of face outside the ring groove. Again, very small amount. Not enough to get squeezed into valve area. Place oring in groove and press it lightly into the rtv. Next you have to finesse the spring and valve seat back into correct position before bending the retainer tabs back into place. There are 2 tiny tabs on the valve housing that need to be oriented horizontally like the were before. Check all this out before putting rtv on and test fit parts back in place so you know how they go and feel good about the spring and valve seat being in correctly. You can check by holding it together with one hand and sticking your pinkie into the large housing hole to feel the outsy nipple on valve seat being centered. You will need some big Channel lock pliers to make squeezing tabs back into place easier. Lock down all 4 tabs, recheck valve seat centered with pinkie and then reconnect hoses. You can leave the end of the large hose away from the VSV unconnected, start car and blow into it to check function. If blocked then good to go, if you can push air through without effort then it is not together correctly. I blew into it without car running and could but with car running I couldn't. You could easily tell the difference. If good hook that hose back up and call it good.
I have not completed the whole drive cycle but have gone far enough to have pending codes and I don't so I am hoping this is fixed. I will report back after drive cycle is complete.

DIY: Fix for P0442 - Scionlife.com
Scion xA/xB 1st-Gen Drivetrain & Power - DIY: Fix for P0442 - This is a fix for the P0442 Code: small leak in the evaporative emissions system. This can be a pretty frustrating problem, as even a very small leak will trigger the code and Xmas tree on your dash. Sometimes, a tech will just tell...
www.scionlife.com
So I decided to try this before droppin coin on a new canister. Did it without removing the canister like the guy at the end of the linked thread says he did. The rubber line connecting to the steel line from canister going to the purge valve under the hood was old and crispy so it got replaced as well as putting hose clamps on large hose down there. Jacked up driver rear of vehicle and this is what you see before disassembly and after reassembly....
So I removed the small crispy hose going to purge valve and the large hose from the VSV then used a small screwdriver to get under tabs and open them up in order to remove valve body, o-ring, valve seat and spring. This is what it looks like after removing the VSV.
Note the outsy nipple on the white part. The insy part of the valve seat faces it.
Here are the parts inside...housing, o-ring, spring, valve seat........
After cleaning out some dirt from face of valve left on car and ring groove on housing and washing off all the parts, time for reassembly. I used hi-temp red rtv to fill ring groove and smear small amount on rest of face outside the ring groove. Again, very small amount. Not enough to get squeezed into valve area. Place oring in groove and press it lightly into the rtv. Next you have to finesse the spring and valve seat back into correct position before bending the retainer tabs back into place. There are 2 tiny tabs on the valve housing that need to be oriented horizontally like the were before. Check all this out before putting rtv on and test fit parts back in place so you know how they go and feel good about the spring and valve seat being in correctly. You can check by holding it together with one hand and sticking your pinkie into the large housing hole to feel the outsy nipple on valve seat being centered. You will need some big Channel lock pliers to make squeezing tabs back into place easier. Lock down all 4 tabs, recheck valve seat centered with pinkie and then reconnect hoses. You can leave the end of the large hose away from the VSV unconnected, start car and blow into it to check function. If blocked then good to go, if you can push air through without effort then it is not together correctly. I blew into it without car running and could but with car running I couldn't. You could easily tell the difference. If good hook that hose back up and call it good.
I have not completed the whole drive cycle but have gone far enough to have pending codes and I don't so I am hoping this is fixed. I will report back after drive cycle is complete.