Well, I'm thinking one for starting purposes only, and the other for ICE. I realize there would have to be some sort of alternator upgrade/change, just curious that's all.NVSHSKR said:What do you want a 2nd battery for? It's like comparing apples and oranges, each one serves a different purpose.
Caps suck when you want to run a system. Sealed battery is the way to go I know this from experience. I got mine from kinetik www.kinetikaudio.com. It gives you a lot more options in terms of what you can run. Why run 6 caps when you can get 1 battery?Skeeter said:A capactior does not kill your battery UNLESS its defective meaning shorted out then there will be a constant draw of current on the battery due to the shorted out cap. The cap is there to maintain the voltage and supply high current during high current pulls, the capacitor reacts faster than a bettery ever will. And will keep the voltage from dropping to low.How capacitors work.
No in order to run a second battery an isolator is suggested, like those found in motor homes, the altenator connects to the main input and each battery has its own output
I had the xB that won and I have a power cell in it under the front seat. 2400w monster one. Its expensive but with running 3 amps and that big ass 15 i need all the power i can get.Skeeter said:Damn that calucator on that site shows the HC1400 for my little system and its $350!!!! My 1 farad cap and battery are doing just fine. I should have got in the sound off just to see what my single 12 hits.
Guns4sale didnt you win that soundoff with your Mustang at Tejas Toyota? Does taht have this power cell in it?
Thank you! I didn't want to be the one to type all that out. lol.There's so much misunderstanding about caps for use in car audio.....whether they are needed, "do I need a cap?", "caps don't work", "get a battery instead", "do the big 3", "buy an alternator", "I have a cap and my lights still dim"...etc
First, don't get a cap to fix dimming lights.....although they sometimes can fix this. Caps aren't a battery, they aren't an alternator and they don't create any voltage, nor are they a replacement for "the big 3" .........they work in conjunction with any and all of these and act as an energy storage buffer to instantly(faster than any battery ever could) supply this energy to your amps during large transients. If your system constantly exceeds this energy buffer then you need to beef up the weak link in the chain elsewhere in your electrical system.
Not all caps are created equal.......stay with the 1 farad canister types and your usually pretty safe, the rule of thumb is 1 farad for every 1k watts. What makes a cap desirable for car audio is it's ultra-low ESR(resistance). An ESR of .001 is ideal, .002 is good and .003 is borderline.....above that and a cap is useless. The large "digital" and carbon/hybrid multi-farad units do not work because their ESR is too high.......sure, they store lots of energy but can't discharge quick enough to do any good.....any battery would be better than one of these units. Don't get sucked into the marketing hype of batteries that act as capacitors either.....they still don't discharge quick enough to do what a low ESR cap can. Be careful of digital readouts and large distribution blocks on caps too, sure they are cool and very pretty but add resistance....I always remove mine.....low resistance is what caps are all about.
And to the OP, we need more info about your system before either could be suggested.