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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Brake Pad Install ! D.I.Y. part #1

WARNING/CAUTION
YOU ARE SOLEY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY MODS/WORK/ALTERATIONS, THAT YOU DO/PERFORM ON YOURS/HIS/HER PROPERTY. BY PRECEDING THESE MOD/WORK/ALTERATIONS, YOU HAVE TAKEN FULL RESPONSIBILITY & NO OTHER PARTIES ARE LIABLE. USE YOUR OWN DISCRETION.USE SAFETY FIRST.


Estimated time: 15 - 20 minutes per side
Tools needed:
Metric socket set = 14mm & 17mm
Metric wrench = 14mm
Large 'C' clamp
Jack stands = optional
Wheel chock = advised
1 Large container of hand cleaner


Pre-select a local shop or Auto part store = to turn rotors after removed from the vehicle

Select a safe , level and hopefully fairly clean area to perform work.

First , chock the rear wheel, and remove one of the front wheels. I am assuming everyone knows how to accomplish this?

Using the 14mm socket and wrench, loosen the two 14mm bolts on the inside
of the caliper assembly

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Remove the two bolts completely....

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Then pull the caliper assembly out towards the front of the wheel well....
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Now, in the engine compartment, find the master cylinder, located on the firewall driver side , remove the lid of the fluid reservoir. This is to assist the next step.

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Now take the caliper assembly, rest it on the mounting bracket, careful not to twist or kink the brake line.
Use the large 'C' clamp, clamp from the back of assembly, and insert the threaded rod into the piston
Slowly and carefully tighten the 'C' clamp , compressing the piston, to make it flush with the housing, careful not to damage or pinch the piston seal:

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Continue compressing the piston until it is completely flush with the housing:

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Now remove the old pads from the caliper assembly, mark each one with a sharpie, as a reference to properly orient the replacement pads...ie Right inside--Right outside.

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Brake

Now remove the assembly bracket, using a 17mm socket;
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Once removed, you should now be able to remove the rotor, it will be tight, so tap it with a rubber mallet from the backside, it should pop out easily.

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CONTINUED::::::::::::::::see part #2 on separate thread.
 

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oh man theres still pad left on there. I'm taking mine down metal to metal, so I can justify to the wife getting the crossdrilled slotted rotors.....
 

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TheOtherGuys
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VEry nice write-up! Loving the pics with info in them. Very helpful.
 

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yup, I say everyone print these pages and put them up in your garage.
may be in the future you could do the rear drums too, and every one can save some money for mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
RAIDERBEAST said:
yup, I say everyone print these pages and put them up in your garage.
may be in the future you could do the rear drums too, and every one can save some money for mods.
The rear drums usually last three times as long as the front pads. The front pads stop a higher percent of the weight of the vehicle. I will check them though during the next front brake replacement. I will do a DIY for that as well.
 

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nice thread! i'll make sure to remember this one once i am in need for a change in brake pads! :)
 
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