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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
BRAKE PAD INSTALL! D.I.Y. part #2 continued from part #1

Continued from part #1........
:D Now that you have successfully removed the rotor, time to take it to the shop to have it turned.
Basically, turning means they will put it on a lathe, and smooth down the surface that rubs the pads. removing and burrs or grooves or even warpage.Turning the rotors is recommended, it will increase the life of your new pads. Most shops will turn you carried in rotors in an hour or so, my auto part store only charged $15.00 for both!
Brake DIY w Illustrations 017 Small Web view.jpg successfully removed rotor

Brake DIY w Illustrations 018 Small Web view.jpg YEP! needs to be turned, very slight grooves cause faster wear on new pads,

Brake DIY w Illustrations 006 Small Web view.jpg (This is what 22,000 miles look like to an old pad!) New verses old, pick up OEM pads at the Toyota dealer for $53.68.

add on 2 001 Small Web view Small Web view.jpg Lay out the old pads with their new matching replacements, note shape and wear indicators. The wear indicators are supposed to make a scratching sound in advance before grinding starts.

add on 2 002 Small Web view Small Web view.jpg This step is where labeling the orientation helps! Swap the metal shims from the old pads to the new set, keeping the orientation the same. Do not forget the metal shims, with out them, your brakes will vibrate and make lots of weird noises. Now just throw away the old pads, their days are done....

Once you return with your freshly turned rotors, you can re-assemble by reversing the whole process, remember, dont fight with the pads, they should click right back in using your fingers. If you have to apply allot of pressure, double check your orientation.
Brake DIY w Illustrations 008 Small Web view.jpg
Once you have successfully installed all the components, do not forget to reseal the lid on the master cylinder. Note the brake fluid level has significantly increased, due to the compression of the pistons. make sure your fluid level is good, there is no need to bleed the brake system, as the lines were never opened.
Now your brakes are as good as they were the day you brought your baby home!

Hope this helps someone, or at least helps someone to decide to pay a mechanic instead!

Now for the hand cleaner.......good luck on that!!!!
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before driving make sure to pump your brake pedal to seat the piston again.

if you pump the pedal before you start the vehicle pump it till the pedal is hard.
if you already started the vehicle just a few pumps will do.

if you dont pump yo brakes after compressing the pistons the brakes wont apply the first time you step on the brake pedal. just a heads up...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sesh1975 said:
Good job on the right up. Did you by any chance get a reading on how thick the rotors are? Did they tell you if you can turn them again?
I didn't get a reading on the actual thickness, but I can tell from past experience, They have at least two more turns left in them, that is all depending on the condition of the rotors before turning, if you wait till the brakes are grinding, the grooves will be deeper, then more material will have to be removed. Its always good to change pads when you first hear the wear indicators scratching. In the past I've had the same rotors turned 3-4 times before they were too thin to be safe. The thinner they get, the easier they will heat up and warp.
 
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