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I've been searching through the archives looking for a composite answer to my question. For sure there are modifications that affect engine effeciency, intake, exhaust, etc. Of the available mods, which are the best gains to xB fuel effeciency? Which specific brands gain the most, and which mods? No doubt driving reasonably yeilds good results. I've seen fairly common 33mpg claims with auto trans xB's. I'm wondering is it's possible to achieve a 37-40mpg (combined driving) xB combining the most fuel efficient mods with reasonably careful driving.

Thanks :D
 

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umm remove the lead from the right foot. and put a Speed limiter on that limits your speed to like 60 mph :)

hope that helps.. haha.


but actually an intake will increase gas milage IF YOU DONT drive faster to hear the sound of the intake.. after I added mine if I drove around at normal speed and was conservative I did gain a few miles per gallon like 2 to 3 but when drive MY NORMAL i didnt really see any gain or loss..
 

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I've been searching through the archives looking for a composite answer to my question. For sure there are modifications that affect engine effeciency, intake, exhaust, etc. Of the available mods, which are the best gains to xB fuel effeciency? Which specific brands gain the most, and which mods? No doubt driving reasonably yeilds good results. I've seen fairly common 33mpg claims with auto trans xB's. I'm wondering is it's possible to achieve a 37-40mpg (combined driving) xB combining the most fuel efficient mods with reasonably careful driving.

Thanks :D

The best mileage I got was a hair under 40MPG. I average 35.7 MPG overall for 15 months. I could do better, but I do not follow all my advice all the time.

This is no doubt an unpopular answer, but leave the engine bone stock. No intakes, exhaust, bolt-ons, etc. It is designed quite well....just leave it alone IF your concern is high MPGs.

By far the biggest factor is your driving style. It is not a race car. Dont treat it as such. Combine and plan your trips so you take care of business with one outing. Reduce your idle time by:

Don't simply get in your car and start it. First check for no traffic. When the coast is clear, start your car and just go!

It helps to park your car where such things as traffic lights or stop signs are visible. This will let you watch the traffic condition at the intersection, so you won't have to stop there. Most traffic lights have sensors which won't turn that light until a car stops there. Wait till another car pulls up, then start your car and go. This will take some practice.

Plan your route so you're making right turns as much as possible. Left turns often are spent waiting for oncomming traffic to clear.

If you travel to the same place often,and if multilpe routes are possible, time each one and note the time of day.If possible, plan your trip at the least congested time. This might require logging your trip times at various times and days to determine the fastest time.

On some model's it may be possible to eliminate the aircondioner compressor load by removing or downsizing a belt. since a/c is an option on most cars, manufactors will have a belt for each version. doing this mod will also require reducing the engine's idle speed.(check your service manual for procedure)



Dont use your brakes, anticipate stops and coast to stop sign.Use a constant, slower speed. Make believe that there is an egg between your foot and your gas pedal. Put your car in neutral going down hill (yes this will cause more wear on brakes, but they are cheap and considered wear items).
Keep it at (w/ a manual anyway) at 60mph/3K RPM at freeway speeds. Keeping your highway speed at 55 mph can improve you gas mileage by as much as 25%, compared to 75 mph. (Yeah, I know--this ones tough/impossible even for me). Avoid trying to increase speed while climbing a hill (your engine is already working hard trying to overcome gravity). Get lighter wheels (that means no chrome 20's) that do not increase the width of your tire, and get some fuel efficency rated tires as well. Keep the PSI high (Im running at 37 now). Get rid of those water bottles, macdonalds bags (i.e. unnecessary dead weight) from the interior. Use synthetic oil (can increase by as much as 12%, but 6-8% is more realistic for this car). Ditch the roof rack (even when empty they hurt wour MPGs). Dont use (or rarely use)the AC...it strains the engine just as headlights cause more load on your engine....leave them off during the day. Go on a diet (no joke...the less weight your ride has to carry, including you, the better MPGs).
 

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This is no doubt an unpopular answer, but leave the engine bone stock. No intakes, exhaust, bolt-ons, etc. It is designed quite well....just leave it alone IF your concern is high MPGs.

By far the biggest factor is your driving style. It is not a race car. Dont treat it as such.
I really agree with that. I have customers getting 37MPG in a MANUAL xB. They don't break 60 on the Interstate and always use a soft touch.

If it's something on the car your really want to change, make it lighter. If MPG is your only concern then strip the interior! Seats, carpet, spare, dash, everything weighs something!

Truly though your best bet is to drive like Grandma and Grandpa!

-Alex
 

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I'll respond a little more constructively than others did, but My answer really is the same.

To get the most mileage out of your xB the first thing you need to do is not race off of each stop light. Moderately accelerate and shift grears before 3500rpm or so.

The next step to great mileage is to keep your xB under 65 on the highways. For every mph over 65 you go your mileage goes down.

Step three is modifications that help with mileage. A cat-back exhaust system and a high-flow intake will add mileage. If you do other mods to add power past these two mods you will start decreasing mileage again because as you add more power than that you will need more fuel.

Cliff Notes:
1. Take it easy in the city.
2. Keep it under 65mph on the highway.
3. Add an intake
4. Add a cat-back exhaust.
 

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I have similar goals for MPG.

Biggest result I believe is from getting a ScanGauge and seeing what my mileage is doing. It has changed my driving habits. You wioll be astounded at how a little lighter foot will affect mileage (but not speed very much). I am also doing a lot of coasting to lights now and on long downhills. And picking my routes based on less stop and go.

Cheap improvements to make things more efficient:
K&N air filter (catback and exhaust are expensive and more for performance IMO)
Iridium plugs
lighter oil in engine and transmission

More $$ but I think I'll do these:
Lighter rims (unsprung weight) and lower rolling resistance summer tires
Lighter crankshaft pulley

I need my seats etc - or I would have just gotten the Civic Hybrid. But I'm averaging about 35 mpg w/ no mods yet. I'm hoping to average closer to 40 before gas is $4.00
 

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Just my opinion, but K&N filters work on this simple principal: more airflow = less filtration = more dirt ingestion.
But studies prove a properl oiled K&N filter removes dirt better than an OE filter. The high flow is due to the material it's made from.
 

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umm remove the lead from the right foot. and put a Speed limiter on that limits your speed to like 60 mph :)

hope that helps.. haha.


but actually an intake will increase gas milage IF YOU DONT drive faster to hear the sound of the intake.. after I added mine if I drove around at normal speed and was conservative I did gain a few miles per gallon like 2 to 3 but when drive MY NORMAL i didnt really see any gain or loss..
^^^^^^^^^^^^WHAT HE SAID^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 

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But studies prove a properl oiled K&N filter removes dirt better than an OE filter. The high flow is due to the material it's made from.
Studies from K&N, right?
Here is a test that is comparing aftermarket "increased flow" filters with OEM versions:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm


Ultimately, it is up to the individual. I think my position is clear.
 

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^^ They all look fricken dirty to me. I'll take the performance and mileage gains from the K&N please.
 

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ok...two things...

1. reduced weight. every 7 lbs lost can be like adding approx 1hp
2. my own rule (though un-popular) stock rocks! leave the engine and the rest of the drivetrain alone.

always bear in mind that the engine and computer were all designed to work in a certain configuration, by people most likely more educated in this area.

bear in mind that everything has a trade off, more airflow will almost always mean less filtration. so k&n will flow more...but it will also let more junk through. i live in the dusty desert. so i want as much filter as possible.

an engine is all about airflow...what goes in must come out. if you change the intake, the exhaust and everything in between should be adjusted to match. otherwise you will get little to no improvement. this is strictly a rule of thumb from an engineering and design standpoint. i realize that there are exceptions, and i'm not looking for debate. just adding my two cents...kind of food for thought.

hope it helps somebody out...
 

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I love trying to eek out the best gas mileage I can. The scangauge II really makes you aware of your habits. My last fill up yielded 36mpg mixed (manual tranny) and my best was 37 mixed staying at least at 60mph in the right lane. This is with a stock xB.

My goal is to get into the low 40s. 45mpg? Maybe. I have a few ideas.
1) LRR tires, looking at some high performance summer Sumitomo htr200. Unfortunately the best size is 195/60-15 which is slightly wider but is slightly taller and LRR. Hopefully I'll either gain slightly better mileage or else break even. Either way I'll have way better traction than the touring tires I have on now.
2) Lightweight Perrin pulley. I just got this blemished pulley from Perrin for $70 shipped. I straightened out the small ding and sanded it smooth. Good as new for less. This should help with less power needed during acceleration
3) Lightweight wheels. Stockers are 17.5lbs. They make some cheap ones that weigh 10-11lbs. But I'm probably going to go with some Enkei RPF1 at 9.5lbs each. A little bit more expensive (not as bad as forged) but the Miata guys love these wheels for the lightweight and toughness. Again this will help with less gas needed to get the xB up to speed.
4) Lubrication. Tranny fluid, bearings, etc. Still researching this one but I'm getting close to making a decision. According to one person on sl changing out his tranny fluid gained him 3mpg.

For more tips visit forums that are dedicated to this
http://www.gassavers.org
http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/
 

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ok...two things...

1. reduced weight. every 7 lbs lost can be like adding approx 1hp
2. my own rule (though un-popular) stock rocks! leave the engine and the rest of the drivetrain alone.

always bear in mind that the engine and computer were all designed to work in a certain configuration, by people most likely more educated in this area.

bear in mind that everything has a trade off, more airflow will almost always mean less filtration. so k&n will flow more...but it will also let more junk through. i live in the dusty desert. so i want as much filter as possible.

an engine is all about airflow...what goes in must come out. if you change the intake, the exhaust and everything in between should be adjusted to match. otherwise you will get little to no improvement. this is strictly a rule of thumb from an engineering and design standpoint. i realize that there are exceptions, and i'm not looking for debate. just adding my two cents...kind of food for thought.

hope it helps somebody out...
That's not how K&N filters work! They're a wet filter therefor they're more effecient. That's like almost comparing a cigarette filter to lets say a water bong (a bit extreme, but you get the idea). The best mod that I did to my Spec-V was to get a header w/ out precat. It gave me about 2 to 3 MPG (10% increase). But then again, it gave about a 10% increase in power. Those two figures (HP gained is equal to mileage gained) are usually proportionate as long as you're not adding boost or changing anything like valve lift or duration.
 

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Scan gauge will help you teach you your bad habits. I sold mine after a month because after the first week it's pretty much useless and you stare at it all the time (kinda dangerous).

I have: Header/Intake/Exhaust/Pulley/TBS/Light Wheels. And drive mostly all In-Town and rarely get over 25mpg. Thats even with a light foot when I try to better my mpg.
 
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