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Backup Camera

928 Views 60 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  statgator
Hey guys,

I've been considering for quite some time removing the rear wiper and placing a camera in the hole. I want to do this mainly for style points not really for function. My after market radio supports a back up camera.

Does anyone know what cameras I can choose that will perfectly fill the hole in the sheet metal where the wiper motor shaft comes through? Does anyone know the exact diameter of the hole?

Thanks
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OK, it's not 1/16", ignore that. Waaayyy thinner. I measured in metric units, and it was only 0.8mm for the fender sheet thickness. Then I measured an exposed edge on some metal around the engine bay, and that was 0.9mm. So there's some variance.

Once I get a better idea of what's happening I can probably devise a better solution, especially since you need it thicker on the inside anyway. Any chance you can do a cocktail napkin drawing of what you were thinking? It would be awesome if the manufacturers of the camera had a CAD file or something of the exact dimensions in 3D, but they never do. :D
Sorry I learned construction from old timers. Escutcheon is a part of something that covers a hole but is not technically part of the thing it's only part of dressing it out.
So today I pulled one of the monitors from our office that takes RCA and plugged it in. Put a 12 volt battery in the car and hook the camera up to it. I'm happy you say that everything works and it looks really good and there's no need to angle it or anything like that. See the attached photo.

I like the fact that this camera only shows 135° and not the 170 that most of the other cameras use. Zero fisheye. I'm also planning on removing the red green yellow bars because we're going straight out and not down towards the ground.

So at this point I'm good with starting to design the washers. Let me know how you would like to proceed and if you agree with some of the numbers I put in a couple of posts up.

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Any chance you can do a cocktail napkin drawing of what you were thinking?
I'm not an artist but here you go. I gave the one area thickness to show that there's an ID and an OD.

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Just realized that the bottom of the image is cut off. Here it is again.

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OK, that's perfect. Now I'm just wondering about the depth / how much 'meat' there is before the snap-in things click... Lemme draw something up real quick that will make more sense. I'm hoping that each side will not need a small flanged ring inside of the washer...
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So here was the original concept: (Downside being that there's only 0.4mm on each side for the flange to center within the sheet metal hole)

Font Circle Auto part Drawing Fashion accessory


But then I figured that since there is some 'depth' needed for the part to snap into, why not elongate the outer washer's inner flange and use that as part of the inside's method of connecting? Not sure how to do that yet, as the camera company's drawings don't call out those measurements whatsoever...

Dishware Serveware Font Circle Auto part


It could be a set screw, or if we know the exact amount before the little clicksnap things engage, then we could just make the inner washer (bottom right in 4up picture) as thick as needed. Although maybe that wouldn't work. Argh. I wish 3D printed threads were stronger, we could just give it a thread that way.

Another idea - just print the outer washer, then find a thin large diameter nut to screw onto the 3D printed piece? Then it could be tightened fairly snug.
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Now your heading back in the complicated way that we started this. Nothing wrong with that but I thought the simple idea was a good one.

For second say we stick to just using glue to hold the inner and outer washer together, that is pretty easy just use compression to hold it in place while the glue sets. It wouldn't need much since the prongs on the camera will hold everything together.

Trying to find a nut of specific dimension sounds really tough. Let me think on this and see if I can come up with another idea.
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What about passing the outer washer slightly further into the car, then carve a groove into the outside of the part that that passes into the car and use a locking clip to hold it in place. The locking clip hugs the outside of the washer. Thinking the clip would have to be printed. More complicated than glue but I'm trying to brain with you on a lock or screw in place solution.
I thought about it and I used the KISS method. How about just the outer washer, with a plate on the inside that has the cut out. Make the plate thicker so it will add thickness to catch the prongs on the camera. The camera holds the hole thing together.

The installation becomes a little tricky and the camera does all the work, are my only concerns here.

I'm going to check the size of the gap between the prongs and the escutcheon and report that back to you.
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This is good reading and information from us who aren't installing a camera lol this has more threads than "What did you do with your xB today." LOL jk 😜 the final product should be sweet!!
I'm going to check the size of the gap between the prongs and the escutcheon and report that back to you.
Yeah, this aspect is kind of where I'm currently stumped. I like the glue idea, and ABS plastic works extremely well with SuperGlue. It actually melts the ABS a little, like a weld.

And the way/direction this has to be printed, you don't really want too much force pulling on it front-to-back. The layers sticking together is the weakest part of a 3D print of this type... :unsure:
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Interpreting your message, I think you're saying that we're back at the two washers glued together? Lol

I measured the gap between the escutcheon and the metal prongs on the camera and the minimum gap is 0.08"

The way the camera is designed, the gap can be bigger than that by a small bit. The rear of the camera is just a threaded body and what you see as the front of the camera is a screw on cap. That said 0.08" is the minimum total thickness for washer. The maximum I would say would be around 0.15-0.18". I am totally spit balling that based on grabbing the clips and attempting to push them outward to accommodate a thicker material. To be safe I would land the ship around 0.13".

To say that another way, the thickness of the outer washer + the thickness of the sheet metal + thickness of the inner washer, should not be thicker than 0.13". Thoughts?
I'm willing to bend the crap out of the retaining clips if that's the only option we got. So the 0.13" is the best case scenario.
To say that another way, the thickness of the outer washer + the thickness of the sheet metal + thickness of the inner washer, should not be thicker than 0.13". Thoughts?
Lemme draw up a side view with measurements called out and we can determine the 'height' of the outside washer's flange that enters the car, as well as the thickness of the washer viewed from the outside. I know it's kind of hard to follow what I'm trying to say, that's why pictures work 1000x better. :D

Just got to work, gotta put out some fires first and then I'll mess around with this some more and show you where I'm at.
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Hey Jawhn,

I'm sure you're just busy but checking in on you.
Hey Jawhn,

I'm sure you're just busy but checking in on you.
Hey man, apologies for the delay. I never saw your last post and just now went searching for this thread. I've already forgotten where we were on this... Lemme re-read real quick.

Ahhh crap, yeah, you were waiting on me. Let me get those measurements and drawings. I'd swear that I already did this, but apparently did not... D'oh!
OK, still slammed at work but I threw this together real quick. We've already addressed the diameters of the circles, here's a side-view showing what I currently have going on. The height (That's now 6mm) is what probably needs adjustment, but I need that from you since I don't have the parts here to measure.

Forgot to include the sideview of the sheet metal of the xB, but that was covered above somewhere.

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Hey Jawhn,

No worries. Last week I pulled 5 14s in 6 days. So I know.

Here is what I wrote above:
That said 0.08" is the minimum total thickness for washer. The maximum I would say would be around 0.15-0.18". I am totally spit balling that based on grabbing the clips and attempting to push them outward to accommodate a thicker material. To be safe I would land the ship around 0.13".

0.08" = 2.032mm is the minim total thickness
0.13" = 3.3mm is the expanded prongs but nothing crazy spot
0.18" = 4.572mm is the maximum before I have to literally bend the clips back. Which I'm willing to do for science.

What did you say the thickness of the sheet metal with paint is on the Scion xB?

Any body out there got a Scion body panel handy that you can measure with a caliper?
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What did you say the thickness of the sheet metal with paint is on the Scion xB?
0.8 to 0.9mm (Post #41)

English measurements would be 0.031" to 0.035."

So if you can do the math (My brain really doesn't want to do math right now) I'd just need to know what to shorten that 6mm ring down to, and I can print these and mail 'em to ya and see what happens...
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