A/C Compressor
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Pfffft AC. I'm doing a full system delete in preparation for a bigger project.
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WOW, alot going on in this thread. I still dont think the original question got answered so I registed to do so. First of all, the compressor clutch that has broken fingers. Replace it. The compressor imput shaft retainer has broken which allowed the clutch assy to slide out which in turn, broke the fingers. Because the clutch is electrical, when it moved from it's normal location it caused a short which most likely fried the a/c amplifier. (very common)
Well then. After entire comressor replacement, you will notice everything should be working but no cold air is coming from the vents. This is due to the compressor not engauging due to no power. Remove your a/c control head and radio to gain access and you will see a black plastic box towards the top center in the dash board. This is your a/c amplifier. There are two connectors, the one closest to you is the one your testing. The upper left side of the connector will have a blk/blue wire and next to it a blue/blk wire. This is your compressor power feed. You should have power on both (with engine running and a/c on) if the amp is good. You'll most likely find one power and the other is ground. If so, feed power to the grounded wire with the engine running and a/c on. Give it a second and see if the air starts blowing cold. (it will) This means your a/c amplifier is bad. Replace it and ROCK ON. Hope this helps.
Well then. After entire comressor replacement, you will notice everything should be working but no cold air is coming from the vents. This is due to the compressor not engauging due to no power. Remove your a/c control head and radio to gain access and you will see a black plastic box towards the top center in the dash board. This is your a/c amplifier. There are two connectors, the one closest to you is the one your testing. The upper left side of the connector will have a blk/blue wire and next to it a blue/blk wire. This is your compressor power feed. You should have power on both (with engine running and a/c on) if the amp is good. You'll most likely find one power and the other is ground. If so, feed power to the grounded wire with the engine running and a/c on. Give it a second and see if the air starts blowing cold. (it will) This means your a/c amplifier is bad. Replace it and ROCK ON. Hope this helps.
Thought I read somewhere on that we had variable rate compressors don't use a clutch just a pulley and spin all the the the but they use a valve in them to control system pressure. Instead of it cycling on and off to control pressure as the variable comp has a valve inside that gives system the needed pressure by letting the extra pressure or refrigerant bypass the the system and just recirculates in the comp, does this when the A/C is of too
---------- Post added 01-03-2013 at 12:35 PM ----------
When the A/C is off and I think its the amplifier that controls that. On a side note I have an 04 Tacoma 4x4 D-cab and found a write up on how to use the defrost without the A/C comp coming on. Someone had noticed that the vent selector switch had one more setting after defrost, and on this setting the comp didn't come on. All l I had to do is pull the nob off to cut plastic stop back some for the vent defrost nob so it could make it to that last setting. This in on my 04 Tacoma but it is easy find out if will work on the xB, have the car running turn it on cold and defrost it should feel like A/C cold air then pull the nob off then see if the the shaft from the vent selector will turn one more click if it does then see if the the air gets any warmer or comp is no longer on
---------- Post added 01-03-2013 at 12:35 PM ----------
When the A/C is off and I think its the amplifier that controls that. On a side note I have an 04 Tacoma 4x4 D-cab and found a write up on how to use the defrost without the A/C comp coming on. Someone had noticed that the vent selector switch had one more setting after defrost, and on this setting the comp didn't come on. All l I had to do is pull the nob off to cut plastic stop back some for the vent defrost nob so it could make it to that last setting. This in on my 04 Tacoma but it is easy find out if will work on the xB, have the car running turn it on cold and defrost it should feel like A/C cold air then pull the nob off then see if the the shaft from the vent selector will turn one more click if it does then see if the the air gets any warmer or comp is no longer on
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An old thread yet very interesting. I have a 2008 Xb and the AC stopped working and took it to an AC shop one guy said the clutch is bad but he has no parts and would just replace the whole compressor. Another shop said they will just fix the clutch for 1/8 the price of the other shop. So I went with the least expensive option. After 2 weeks it would work intermittently and now it does not work. I looked at it and seems like it is a variable type compressor, turning the A/C switch on and off does not turn a clutch on and off. BMW's have the same type of compressor and they are junk. It takes forever to begin cooling if and when they work.
Can anyone confirm that indeed this cars use the variable type compressor? This is basically to try to make the compressor more efficient and lessen the load it adds to the engine.
Can anyone confirm that indeed this cars use the variable type compressor? This is basically to try to make the compressor more efficient and lessen the load it adds to the engine.
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I lost the receipt, is this normal for these cars that the clutch on the compressor goes bad a 70K miles?
2008 scion xd I'm having issues getting power to the a.c compressor it shows 2.5 volts. so I don't think its a fuse or the high pressure switch. which I tested. any suggestions on relays? or any thing else. I seen that there's an ac amplifier ill try that next. I'm also having issues hunting down ac wiring diagrams. any help is highly appreciated. 
Hello. I just wanted to add to this A/C discussion. I had my compressor and condenser replaced back in February. Once those were replaced, it blew ice cold again for about five months. At the end of June I noticed it stopped cooling. Brought it back to the mechanic who replaced the parts. They found the leak in the A/C valve where you charge up the system with freon. They fixed it free of charge and I went on my way with cold A/C again. Brought it back a second time and they noticed the freon was low and charged it up again as they saw no other leaks. I went on my way again with nice cold air. Had to go back a third time and they took apart the dash and ended up having to replace the evaporator as it had started to leak now. That was completed this past Tuesday and since then, my A/C has not been as cold as it should be. The mechanic told me that he read the temp coming out of the vents at 40 degrees. Well, I can assure him, it's not blowing anywhere near that cold. Since having the evaporator replaced, it's not blowing as cold as it should be. The car just never seems to get to that cold point where you can turn the blower down and run it on low. Something just isn't right. Anyway, I am taking it back to the shop tomorrow, but I wanted to bend your ears and see if anyone else out there has had or is having that same issue and if you were able to fix it, what was it or what do you think it could be now? Thanks guys! I would have posted a new thread, but I am still new here.
-Chris
-Chris
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im having a completely different issue with my 06.5... i noticed that the car would blow cool at idle but while driving or at highway speeds it would warm up drastically. Took it to the shop had them evacuate and recharge the system, they also used the dye and found no leaks. problem still remained so i took it back, they said it must be a restriction in the expansion valve or condensor so i had those changed and still the problem has remained. everything seems to be working just fine but the a/c only blows ice cold at idle still. ive found zero luck on the internet for what else could be causing this to happen.. any one else ever deal with this sort of thing?
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The A/C compressors are Crap, crap, and more crap. I have been thru atleast 2 on each of my auto xbs... I personally have replaced them 7 times on just my xbs... Before long I'm onna have to replace 2 more! Starts making squeeling noise and chirping noises on my auto xbs. Belts cannot be tightened any tighter.... Plus they have new belts.
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