[Toddl]

I just purchased a 2008 xB for my daughter. The auto lock button on the key doesn’t work, and the switch’s in the car also don’t work. Fuse was replaced, and rear door won’t unlock. Saw a lot of threads about gen 1 but not gen 2.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[9.0 2012 RS]

I just purchased a 2008 xB for my daughter. The auto lock button on the key doesn’t work, and the switch’s in the car also don’t work. Fuse was replaced, and rear door won’t unlock. Saw a lot of threads about gen 1 but not gen 2.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Welcome to the fourm! First thing to do is go to AutoZone or the dealership and get a new battery for the remote. Try that first let us know. Others should chime in. My .02 cents.

 

[Toddl]

Battery in the remote is new, the switch’s in the doors don’t work either, and the rear hatch won’t open with the button. I am guessing it’s a relay/module issue, similar to the 1gen

 

[jawhn]

I know that they sometimes need to be reprogrammed. And one of my FirstGens just would not take to a remote whatsoever. I never figured out why, wondered if too many codes had already been run through it, maybe there's a limit? Not sure. It had had a lot of previous owners, so who knows what happened throughout it's life.

Disconnected plug somewhere perhaps? That's not fun to try and diagnose, however.

 

[jawhn]

Also, keep an eye on your oil level. Hopefully they've already fixed the issue with your new purchase, but initially there were big problems with oil consumption on the 2008 model. (They did a recall / fix upgrade back in the day)

 

[Toddl]

Still hoping to hear from anyone with a 2nd gen who’s inside door locks don’t work. Both inside door lock switches do nothing, and rear door button does nothing.
Key battery good
Checked door fuse

Any idea what relay to check, tests to run, any help greatly appreciated

 

[Slowneasy50]

I have a problem too. I think my door was replaced, but not the lock and it is different than the ignition key. I am figuring keep a spare battery in case. It would be nice though for my 2009 to have the same lock cylinders. Just saying.

 

[1.8TTony]

Ok, so the fuse is good.

If I didn't have the arsenal of Toyota's diagnostic equipment at my disposal.......

I would inspect the wires behind the driver's door switch panel. Inspect them for damaged/loose wires. Remove the electrical connector, see what it looks like. Apply some dielectric grease to the electrical tabs. Reconnect.

If all wires look good, next thing I would do is disconnect and inspect the door lock relay.......this relay is not a typical relay. When you think of a relay, you think of a little square box with metal tabs sticking out of it. The relay for Toyota's door lock system is more complex. This relay is more like a control module......a mini computer, if you will.

This relay has a circuit board, it has multiple relay chips installed in it, it has diodes, it has capacitors......lots of little electrical junk.

I would remove this "relay" and inspect it's plastic case for signs of heat damage. I would look at the electrical tabs for signs of discoloration, moisture damage and/or electrolysis (corrosion). If I see something suspicious, I would open up the relay case and inspect the internal components for signs of damage. If I see damage, I would replace the relay........the relay (dealership) cost is $300 + $200 for 1 hour labor service. Ouch!

I'll save you some Google Time and let you know what this relay looks like, where it is and how to grab it.

What it looks like:
The relay is shaped like a deck of playing cards, a cigarette box. Rectangle. The color of the relay is going to be blue. There's a chance that the color is purple, but 9 times out of 10 the color is blue. The purple colored relays came from a supplier who got the color wrong.

Where is it:
The relay is located above the brake pedal. Difficult to access. You're not gonna just reach under the dash and pull it out.

How to grab it:
Remove the driver's seat, lay on the vehicle floor, reach up, cuss alot and remove it. Or, remove guage cluster , reach down inside the dash, cuss alot and remove it........I do the seat removal method. Either way, (seat or guage cluster) it's such a PITFA to remove this relay because there's so much metal junk in the way and the various wire harness sections are not very forgiving. Plus, there's an anchor tab which needs to be manipulated before the relay is free and it's electrical connector was sourced straight from hell.

If everything looks good, I would then apply dielectric grease to the electrical tabs and reinstall the relay.

Next.......I would dig thru wire schematics to discover electrical power/ground sources and start the tedious process of manually testing electrical circuits.

If I still haven't found and eliminated the problem, I would take the car to Toyota and pay for a proper diagnosis of the situation. I mean, it might cost $175 for diagnostic service, but the service would (easily) take less than an hour and you'd know exactly what needs to be addressed.

$175 versus you spending days & days searching for the solution, yet making no progress. What's your time worth?

Good luck.
🦸‍♀️

 

[1.8TTony]

I have a problem too. I think my door was replaced, but not the lock and it is different than the ignition key. I am figuring keep a spare battery in case. It would be nice though for my 2009 to have the same lock cylinders. Just saying.

Most cost effective way to have one key for door lock and ignition would be to drop off your ignition key and the door lock cylinder at a locksmith shop and have them install the tumblers in the lock cylinder which will allow your ignition key to operate the door lock cylinder. Doing this might cost you $30

If you were to have a locksmith come out to your location and do all the work, the locksmith is going to charge you as much money as possible. The locksmith is going to make new keys and install new tumblers into your existing door lock and ignition lock. I wouldn't be surprised if a locksmith would charge $150+ for a mobile service.

On the other hand, you could remove the door lock cylinder, pull the tumbler core out of it's barrel. When you do this, you will see that all the tumblers in the core are sticking up. Insert your ignition key into the core and you will see that some of the tumblers are now sticking up and some have moved down. Note which tumblers are sticking up. Remove the key. Use a small pick tool to lift out the tumblers which we're sticking up. Put the lock back together.......now your ignition key will be able to operate the door lock.

 

[Slowneasy50]

Ok, so the fuse is good.

If I didn't have the arsenal of Toyota's diagnostic equipment at my disposal.......

I would inspect the wires behind the driver's door switch panel. Inspect them for damaged/loose wires. Remove the electrical connector, see what it looks like. Apply some dielectric grease to the electrical tabs. Reconnect.

If all wires look good, next thing I would do is disconnect and inspect the door lock relay.......this relay is not a typical relay. When you think of a relay, you think of a little square box with metal tabs sticking out of it. The relay for Toyota's door lock system is more complex. This relay is more like a control module......a mini computer, if you will.

This relay has a circuit board, it has multiple relay chips installed in it, it has diodes, it has capacitors......lots of little electrical junk.

I would remove this "relay" and inspect it's plastic case for signs of heat damage. I would look at the electrical tabs for signs of discoloration, moisture damage and/or electrolysis (corrosion). If I see something suspicious, I would open up the relay case and inspect the internal components for signs of damage. If I see damage, I would replace the relay........the relay (dealership) cost is $300 + $200 for 1 hour labor service. Ouch!

I'll save you some Google Time and let you know what this relay looks like, where it is and how to grab it.

What it looks like:
The relay is shaped like a deck of playing cards, a cigarette box. Rectangle. The color of the relay is going to be blue. There's a chance that the color is purple, but 9 times out of 10 the color is blue. The purple colored relays came from a supplier who got the color wrong.

Where is it:
The relay is located above the brake pedal. Difficult to access. You're not gonna just reach under the dash and pull it out.

How to grab it:
Remove the driver's seat, lay on the vehicle floor, reach up, cuss alot and remove it. Or, remove guage cluster , reach down inside the dash, cuss alot and remove it........I do the seat removal method. Either way, (seat or guage cluster) it's such a PITFA to remove this relay because there's so much metal junk in the way and the various wire harness sections are not very forgiving. Plus, there's an anchor tab which needs to be manipulated before the relay is free and it's electrical connector was sourced straight from hell.

If everything looks good, I would then apply dielectric grease to the electrical tabs and reinstall the relay.

Next.......I would dig thru wire schematics to discover electrical power/ground sources and start the tedious process of manually testing electrical circuits.

If I still haven't found and eliminated the problem, I would take the car to Toyota and pay for a proper diagnosis of the situation. I mean, it might cost $175 for diagnostic service, but the service would (easily) take less than an hour and you'd know exactly what needs to be addressed.

$175 versus you spending days & days searching for the solution, yet making no progress. What's your time worth?

Good luck.
🦸‍♀️

well, thanks, but I think it is a different lock because of the feel of putting the key in barely fits the keyway. Similar but different. I have had some mechanical and electrical experience having been several turns around the sun.

 

[1.8TTony]

well, thanks, but I think it is a different lock because of the feel of putting the key in barely fits the keyway.

Ah, yep, different keyways would prevent your ignition key from slipping into that door lock. Toyota uses multiple keyways for vehicles in the same regions so there's less of a chance that one random key will unlock a door which it's not supposed to.

You could go to a dealership with your identification and your vehicles ownership paperwork and request the key code and then order a door lock assembly which will accept your ignition key......you'd still have to get a locksmith to install springs & the correct tumblers to allow your ignition key to work the lock.

Or possibly (if you're ever at a salvage yard), you can find a lock that your ignition key slides into.

If you do, there's a plastic plug on the edge of the door near the lock cylinder. You can remove that plug and see a T30 fastener behind it. Use a screwdriver to loosen the fastener. Once the screw is loosened, the lock cylinder simply slides out of the door. The screw is captured and will not fall away, it remains in place, but releases the lock cylinder.

 

[Slowneasy50]

I was having similar issue and read a comment here somewhere that said spray it with an oil and I used Tri-Flow which has teflon can't remember the generic letters with a straw and bang, the door lock works. Before I sprayed it it felt like the key was completely the wrong key. Works like a charm now.