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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Ok so the foam tape idea sounds like it will be a good solution for most of our rattles at the BOTTOM. But for those of us with the annoying "creeks" at the TOP of the windshield, anyone have any suggestions? Again, this is not temperature related (for me). It was doing it only a couple weeks after I bought it (new) in the summer. =(
 

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I also had the windshield creaking noise and found the problem and resolved it. The noise was caused by the outside plastic crowl (I think that's what it's called - the black plastic across the car under the wipers) rubbing and flexing as I drove and hit bumps. It was worse in the cold. I padded the right and left corners with a rubber-like material. After some months I was able to remove the material and the noise stayed away.
 

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BMan, what's a tower brace, and where did you get it? Do you have any pics of it installed?
thanks,

---------- Post added 09-12-2011 at 12:45 PM ----------

I had a different windshield issue. When driving over 72 mph it made a horrible vibration noise, like a trumpet being blown. Finally resolved it by using a strip of tubular rubber and filling the gap at the top of the windshield in the gasket. There is a concave area there that was acting as a 'whistle' . RTV and the rubber tubing filled the space and stopped the noise.

---------- Post added 09-12-2011 at 12:47 PM ----------

Anyone have an issue with the driver side door not sealing completely at the top edge? Mine isn't closing tight enough and I can hear a slight 'popping' sound of the door frame bumping against the gasket at the top.
Are the door closures adjustable? Anyone know how to adjust the door striker to latch?

thanks,
 

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BMan, what's a tower brace, and where did you get it? Do you have any pics of it installed?
thanks,
Here is a link. There several makers to choose from, I used the one from TRD
http://www.fastscions.com/scion-xb-tanabe-sustec-front-strut-tower-brace-TTB129F.aspx

Anyone have an issue with the driver side door not sealing completely at the top edge? Mine isn't closing tight enough and I can hear a slight 'popping' sound of the door frame bumping against the gasket at the top.
Are the door closures adjustable? Anyone know how to adjust the door striker to latch?

thanks,
You have to loosen the Torx bolts on the loop and slide it. I suggest marking where it is now before trying to do it for the first time, so you can get it back to where it is just in case.:eek:
 

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BMan, yeah good idea on the striker loop, that's what I thought as well. But, I took the Torx out and there is NO slide movement available. The bracket is not slotted, nor is the 'A' pillar. The threaded holes in the pillar are 'fixed position' can't be moved. Other ideas ??

thanks,

---------- Post added 09-13-2011 at 12:20 PM ----------

BMan, good link on the strut tower brace. Was it noticablely different after you installed it? I get this 'thud' rattle when hitting potholes, speed bumps etc. Sounds like the under-cowling getting rattled. Does this brace eliminate that?
 

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BMan, yeah good idea on the striker loop, that's what I thought as well. But, I took the Torx out and there is NO slide movement available. The bracket is not slotted, nor is the 'A' pillar. The threaded holes in the pillar are 'fixed position' can't be moved. Other ideas ??

thanks,

---------- Post added 09-13-2011 at 12:20 PM ----------

BMan, good link on the strut tower brace. Was it noticablely different after you installed it? I get this 'thud' rattle when hitting potholes, speed bumps etc. Sounds like the under-cowling getting rattled. Does this brace eliminate that?
I haven't needed to adjust my door but usually you only need to loosen the screws some and it will allow you to move it.
The full TRD suspension went on at the same time so I went from driving like a bus to driving like a sports car, kinda hard to know how much was the brace.
I make it a habit to not hit speed bumps and pot holes so I can't help there either.
I guess I'm no help today :eek:
 

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OK, well I think I'm gonna try to make the striker loop have slotted holes so I can move it from side to side slightly. I think I only need about 1/8" or less movement to accomplish what I need.
 

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Well, I haven't 'bitten the bullet' on drilling out the striker loop holes yet, but I've done a lot of measurements to compare the driver side door to the passenger door.
I've noted that most door alignments points are very close to the same. I've confirmed that the top edge of the driver door is about 1/8 " more out of the seal than the opposite side.
I also noted that the door was not coming into the striker plate at the exact center of the latch opening. After some abrupt leveraging of the bottom of the door to 'lift' it a bit, that problem is resolved. It comes into the loop perfectly, and with no indication of lifting as it meets the gasket on closure. This has also eliminated the slight 'popping' sound at the top of the door; not really popping but more like two surfaces not making solid contact - making and breaking contact sound. Anyway that is GONE!! But, I'm still not satisfied with the way the door is seating against the gasket when fully closed. I still plan to do something with the loop to improve that. I can tell a difference in the sound of the door when it closes compared to the opposite side door which has a nice 'solid' sound when it closes. We'll see.............
 

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OK, I removed the driver door striker loop this weekend and used a small round file to elongate the holes and Torx screw taper edges. The metal is really soft, and filed away quickly.
Reinstalled the loop, and problem is gone. Door has a nice solid sound now when it's closed and absolutely no noise at the top edge of the door anymore!
 

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OK, I removed the driver door striker loop this weekend and used a small round file to elongate the holes and Torx screw taper edges. The metal is really soft, and filed away quickly.
Reinstalled the loop, and problem is gone. Door has a nice solid sound now when it's closed and absolutely no noise at the top edge of the door anymore!
I'm glad you found a solution
 

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Ok, so just to clarify...some of you HAVE had success of removing creeks by taking that piece off under the wiper and putting down like foam tape? If you guys say its worth it, then I will try it soon because these creaks are driving me nuts, I have to turn up the stereo just to keep my sanity. My sisters old cheap cobalt is more quiet than my xb. :( p.s. 08 45k miles
 

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Ok, so just to clarify...some of you HAVE had success of removing creeks by taking that piece off under the wiper and putting down like foam tape? If you guys say its worth it, then I will try it soon because these creaks are driving me nuts, I have to turn up the stereo just to keep my sanity. My sisters old cheap cobalt is more quiet than my xb. :( p.s. 08 45k miles
If it is the cowl making the noise then the foam tape works 100%. Mine was more of a squeak which I was able to reproduce by thumping my palm on the cowl. I could hear it making the same noise as when I was driving. Take the wiper arms off, remove the cowl, wrap the bottom edge of the windshield with the tape and reinstall the cowl and wipe arms. Took me about 30 minutes to do. One of the best "mods" I've made to my car.
 

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Add me to that as well. I just picked up a 2011 before Christmas, and after two days, I have the noise. It's not annoying YET, but it will get there.
I can't quite seem to figure out exactly where it is coming from, but it seems like the windshield. Sometimes it seems like it is coming from just above the rearview mirror, other times bottom left corner by the dash.
 

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Yeah, the bottom left part of the windshield seems to be most often the problem area. What type of 'foam tape' are folks using to stop it? Where do you get said tape ??

---------- Post added 01-23-2012 at 12:36 PM ----------

...correction, on mine it is on the lower passengers side of the windshield.
 

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Yeah, if someone could post some details or pics it would be really helpful. How do you get the wiper arms off? Where do you apply the rubber tape? What is the most problematic area?

I looked at the lower attachment area for the cowling and there are only 2 retaining clips, one on each end that hold it in place. My cowling has about 1/8" up and down play off the metal strip it sits on. So do you apply the rubber tape below the cowling where it sits on this metal or up against the windshield somewhere? Comeon now, don't be shy about how you fixed it.
 
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