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1st gen scion xb Clutch Replacement Experience or DIY

Do this at your own risk. I am not responsible for anyone trying to do what I did. With that said..


Tools used

30mm or 32mm axle nut socket (harbor freight sells these)
Ratcheting wrench 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm (harbor freight sells these)
Ball Joint separator (harbor freight sells these)
Floor Jack and a transmission jack to make life a bit easier (harbor freight sells these)
¼” 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets with ¼” ratchet (harbor freight sells these)
3/8” 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets with 3/8” ratchet (harbor freight sells these)
3/8” 10mm, 12mm, 14mm swivel socket set.
Funnels
2 wheel chocks
Transmission drain bolt and fill is 24mm. Drain from drain bolt and fill through fill bolt or the Reverse switch.
Short, Medium and Long ¼”, 3/8”, ½” extensions
Pry Bar set (harbor freight sells these)
Transmission bolts to engine are 14mm
Wood to hold up the engine
various screw driver and pliers to remove clips/retainers/connectors
Brake lube grease(synthetic grease)
Oil collection pan
magnetic tool trays. used like 6 of them
PB blaster
Flashlight
3/8” and ½” torque wrench.
The flywheel bolts are 12 point 14mm socket. everything else you can use a 6 point socket.


Parts:
Exedy KTY15 Clutch Kit. Original clutch
3 quarts of 75w-90 gl-4 or 75w-90 gl-5 gear oil

Side note: Good time to replace the rear main seal, axles if it’s busted

This job is just like any clutch I’ve had done. It isn’t too difficult. Just takes time. No subframe removal, no radiator removal

Just off the top of my head what needs to be done.

Engine bay:
-Let engine cool down.
-Remove battery and tray.
-Remove air filter box.
-Remove the clips and washers and retainers that are attached to the shift linkages.
-Remove the clip and THEN the bolt to that holds the clutch hard line on the transmission.
-Remove the two bolts holding the clutch slave.
-Remove the 2 or 3 bolts that hold the plate onto the clutch hard line.
-Unplug the reverse sensor switch
-Remove the bolt for the ground wire that attaches to the transmission motor mount
-Remove transmission bolts on the top side.
-Zip tie everything up and out of the way

Tire sides
-Loosen the axle nuts on the ground with a breaker bar or impact gun.
-Loosen the lug nuts
-Raise car and secure with jack stands
-Drain the fluid from the transmission, once its done draining tighten to torque spec.
-Remove the lug nuts and tires
-Remove the cotter pin on the tie rod and nut
-Remove the retainer clip and nut on the lower ball joint and use the ball joint tool to pop the ball joint from the knuckle. Do this on the other side. Remove knuckle from ball joint as to not break the lower ball joint boots which accidently happened to me. Its 15.99 from autozone to replace the ball joint.
-Remove the axles. Use a flashlight to see where to pop the axle from with a pry bar.

Underside car.
-Remove the two undercarriage plastic garnish which is held on by 2 10mm bolts and 4 machine screws and one nut. All 10mm.
-Remove the nut that retains the power cable and connector on the starter and remove the one 14mm bolt that holds it down. The other 14mm bolt that holds the starter was removed when removing the bolts on the top side. There is also a plastic piece that clips on the transmission that acts like a spacer for the starter. Don’t lose that. Remove the starter
-Removing the heat shield, there is a heat shield that is held on by two bolts and one nut right above the passenger side axle on the inner boot. You’ll see it if you look with your flashlight. This is needed to get to the transmission bolts and rear transmission mount.
-Remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt that is on the under the subframe of the transmission mount.
-Remove the bolt and nut that goes across the rear transmission mount. You may need to use a 14mm swivel socket for this like I did.
-Disconnect the o2 sensor (on top of the rear transmission mount) and remove the clip that attaches it to the mount and the clip that attaches it to the transmission.
-Loosen the engine to transmission bolts that hold it together. (Your floor jack may be in the way so figure out which bolts to remove before putting the weight of the engine on the jack)
- Place in a safe place where the floor jack and wood would go. I placed it right next to the oil pan on the engine and secure the engine.
****Warning: This is the part that needs a lot of attention. Safety is a huge factor and you can get seriously hurt and or damage your transmission and/or engine if you let it fall on you or the floor. ***
-Remove the passenger side mount, 3 bolts on transmission and 2 holding it down to the mount.
-Use a pry bar, to slightly rotate the engine/transmission to remove the bracket that goes from the rear transmission mount to the transmission to gain enough clearance to use your tool. These bolts are VERY tight.

Transmission removal
DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING IS CLEARED OUT OF THE WAY: Wiring, bolts and clips.
- You can lower the engine just enough so the transmission can slide out. Use a pry bar to help you separate. It shouldn’t take a lot of force. If you tried and it doesn’t come out. Use a mirror and flashlight to see if you have any bolts or clips you haven’t removed. Having a buddy help you would be great if not use a transmission jack or floor jack but if you drop it on the floor and crack something, you are gonna be in a world of hurt.
-Clean everything.
-Grease up everything you’re suppose to grease up.
-This is another part where your buddy comes in handy. Pry bar against the flywheel teeth to hold it place while you remove and install the flywheel.
-Place the alignment tool inside the old clutch on the engine.
-Remove the pressure plate bolts and the clutch will drop once the pressure plate is removed. If you never done a clutch and want to know which way the clutch goes in this is why you put in the alignment tool in to figure out the which side the clutch sits on the flywheel
-Get your flywheel resurfaced, it’s a stepped flywheel if you’re wondering what you need to tell the machine shop. Shop around; you’ll be surprised in the price difference. Prices range from 35 to 75 bucks.
-Torque the flywheel bolts to 36ftlbs plus an additional 90 degrees.
-Torque the pressure plate to spec. I think spec is 14ftlbs, I did 15.

Installation tips:
Grease up any part that might give you trouble later like axle splines, dowel pins, motor mount holes.
Spray PB Blaster in any threaded holes, holes, nuts and bolts.

Transmission installation:
Again, a buddy to help you install is seriously helpful. You will need to use the jack to raise and lower the engine just a bit at a time to get the transmission to slide in. Once you get it just right with wiggling another jack and pry bar, it will go in. Took me about 15mins and I had a lift to work with.

Put everything back together in reverse order with torque specs and call it a day. Don't forget to put 75w-90 into the trans either through the reverse sensor switch or the fill hole.
 

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Nice write-up! Good to know that dropping the subframe isn't a must.

I've been debating doing this myself or having a shop do it when the time comes. On one hand, big cost savings. On the other, the car's seen ten Midwest winters and the accompanying road salt.
 

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I am attempting a clutch swap on a 2004 xB. I too was looking for a way to get the RR transmission mount out without removing the cross brace. I have the car tore down to this point. I did find two other shortcuts and some notes that may help others. You can snake the slave cyl around to the back of the engine on the rubber line leaving the metal line attached. Also, you can leave the wires attached to the starter since the battery is out. Using the factory manual usually takes you down a much more involved path and I am sure service rates at Toyota are based on it.

If you are planning to do this job, order the engine support hooks now (or support from under). The hooks were on national back order and few are in the states. The feet of the engine support bar rest neatly on the inner fender well and tuck up under the wiper cowl. There is about 1 inch between the bar and the tops of the fenders.

Toyota sells a seal kit for the manual transmission including input shaft, axle shafts and some I haven't figured out where they go, and also new gaskets for the fill and drain plugs.

Also, I used this toolset - the diggy tool took just a couple of blows to remove the crimp on the axle nuts:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WNP2TE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Another short cut is one I use on most front wheel drive cars with a single lower A-Frame and struts. You don't need to disconnect the tie rod ends, just the ball joint. I used a bar or expansion clams to push down on the lower suspension until I can separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. When I am able to swivel the strut to a point the half-shaft comes out. On some cars you can do this with the sway bar attached as well.

---------- Post added 03-08-2017 at 04:00 PM ----------

I did manage to get the RR transmission mount off without removing the cross brace and the drivers side mount (the article above mentions passenger - maybe he was from Australia). The bell housing separated from the bottom of the transmission but not the top. I'm thinking there is a "key" on the top somewhere holding things together. I did get out all 8 bolts counting the one for the top of the starter.

I had to disconnect the exhaust from the manifold because it touched the cross brace when I was lowering the engine preventing it from tipping. I am not opposed to removing the cross brace if I can keep the steering rack in place. But, I will see once I figure out what is binding on the top of the transmission.
 

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I managed to get the transmission off last night using the method described by this post on a 1st Gen Scion xB. The only changes were noted on my earlier posts. The flywheel tooled off very easy. It had some heat marks but they were machined off. Be sure to tell the shop it is a stepped clutch when you call for quotes. They remove the alignment pins and machine the entire surface to maintain the stepping. Be sure you replace flywheel bolts with new ones, new cotter pins for the ball joints, new gasket for the exhaust, rear engine oil seal, half shaft oil seals (different on each side), brake cleaner, parts blaster, 75W-90 fluid, new washers for transmission drain and filler, optional air filter, the service manual calls for new wedges for the shift cables (leave that to you).

---------- Post added 03-10-2017 at 04:59 PM ----------

Closing thoughts on this thread. The car I am working on is a 2004, so the ball joints are part of the A-frame. The clip mentioned is the thing that takes the place of a cotter pin on the ball joint (somehow I was thinking circlip. Also, since the clutch slave is still hooked up and easily accessible (I left it connected), why not bleed it before bolting it back on? I was able to hold the flywheel with vise grips in the starter opening enough to torque it. My flywheel cost $68 to step plane. The clutch surface was rotary planed and the pins removed and the rest was surfaced like a brake rotor.
 

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I am doing the same thing and I'm having trouble getting the transmission separated from the engine. Just like Vetter said the bottom will separate but the top is still stuck. What's the trick to getting it out?
 

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There wasn't much of a trick. If you have all the bolts out and the starter removed, you can eventually get it off. I took a night off and went back at it fresh. Supported it with a jack to take the pressure off the input shaft and wedged a chisel between the casings until I saw light. Let us know your experience!
 

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I finally got it off yesterday, the thing that was holding me up was a stuck dowel pin. We soaked it in PB Blaster over night and the next morning the dowel came right out.
 

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Glad you made it. A swipe of anti-seize is probably in order during your rebuild. I put Synthetic gear oil in on my re-fill and the shifts now are Honda super slick. With the disk and pressure plate mentioned in the OP, plus the flywheel grind there is no signs of chatter on take up. Give it a couple of weeks before the place where the clutch starts to grab settles in. I stalled it a couple of times until I got used to it.
 

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We actually got it all together and it turns out that my original problem was that it was slipping out of 3rd and 5th gear and a new clutch didn't fix it. So I ordered a new transmission today and it should be here by the end of the week. So hopefully by this time next week I'll have my car back.
 

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This manual gearbox was only available in the Aygo and Yaris here as all bBs are either auto or CVT, it's very common to see the manuals in for a spring & ball job at around 130000KM and upwards but even at the second detent set, the syncro hubs, bearings and seals tend to be good for further service.
Changing the detent springs & balls is down in the ICME as a 0.6 Hour job, less with the box on the bench, a complete new unit seems - and please don't mind my saying this - like overkill. Cost of the spring and ball kit is only around £12 from Toyota, or you can cut down some pen springs and take a chance on reusing the balls as they can still hold the selectors unless the plating has worn through.
I'd be more concerned about the state of the 1st motion shaft oil seal in a case where the box has been pulled out unevenly, as is the case when a dowel at one side of the bellhousing has been catching. The lip on these is pretty shallow and won't take much flexing before it splits.

:)
 

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The reason I went and got a new transmission was because when we drained all the gear oil out it only had about a half of a liter in it. I assumed that's something got burned up on the inside of the transmission because of it so I said screw it I'll just go buy a new transmission and hopefully it'll fix it. I'm just trying to get it on the road. And since I bought it used with this problem and I don't know what the car is been through so I just chose to replace the whole thing and start fresh
 

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From the point of view of the peace of mind that a new unit can provide, I totally understand your choice and the thing is; it's your choice and nobody else's, but as one so avaricious that only dogs can hear my farts**, I figured it would do no harm to mention the cheap strategy, though with too little oil in the 'box, there's always a chance that further damage has been done.

**It's genetic, I come from a long line of tightwads. My late Grandfather starved to death on a pay-as-you-leave bus..
;)
 

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I had also thought that if I had the unit that I have now rebuilt I could resell it because I know that they are kind of rare.

And also part of my reasoning is that I haven't had a fully functioning car since around February because I had a 98 Civic that blew an engine. Then I bought an 02 Cavalier that I wrecked it in a not at fault accident 6 days after I bought it and then I bought this xB that has a bad transmission. So I've just been eager to have a car the I can get up and go in.
 

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1st gen scion xb Clutch Replacement Experience or DIY

Do this at your own risk. I am not responsible for anyone trying to do what I did. With that said..


Tools used


30mm or 32mm axle nut socket (harbor freight sells these)
Ratcheting wrench 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm (harbor freight sells these)
Ball Joint separator (harbor freight sells these)
Floor Jack and a transmission jack to make life a bit easier (harbor freight sells these)
¼” 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets with ¼” ratchet (harbor freight sells these)
3/8” 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets with 3/8” ratchet (harbor freight sells these)
3/8” 10mm, 12mm, 14mm swivel socket set.
Funnels
2 wheel chocks
Transmission drain bolt and fill is 24mm. Drain from drain bolt and fill through fill bolt or the Reverse switch.
Short, Medium and Long ¼”, 3/8”, ½” extensions
Pry Bar set (harbor freight sells these)
Transmission bolts to engine are 14mm
Wood to hold up the engine
various screw driver and pliers to remove clips/retainers/connectors
Brake lube grease(synthetic grease)
Oil collection pan
magnetic tool trays. used like 6 of them
PB blaster
Flashlight
3/8” and ½” torque wrench.
The flywheel bolts are 12 point 14mm socket. everything else you can use a 6 point socket.


Parts:
Exedy KTY15 Clutch Kit. Original clutch
3 quarts of 75w-90 gl-4 or 75w-90 gl-5 gear oil

Side note: Good time to replace the rear main seal, axles if it’s busted

This job is just like any clutch I’ve had done. It isn’t too difficult. Just takes time. No subframe removal, no radiator removal

Just off the top of my head what needs to be done.

Engine bay:

-Let engine cool down.
-Remove battery and tray.
-Remove air filter box.
-Remove the clips and washers and retainers that are attached to the shift linkages.
-Remove the clip and THEN the bolt to that holds the clutch hard line on the transmission.
-Remove the two bolts holding the clutch slave.
-Remove the 2 or 3 bolts that hold the plate onto the clutch hard line.
-Unplug the reverse sensor switch
-Remove the bolt for the ground wire that attaches to the transmission motor mount
-Remove transmission bolts on the top side.
-Zip tie everything up and out of the way

Tire sides
-Loosen the axle nuts on the ground with a breaker bar or impact gun.
-Loosen the lug nuts
-Raise car and secure with jack stands
-Drain the fluid from the transmission, once its done draining tighten to torque spec.
-Remove the lug nuts and tires
-Remove the cotter pin on the tie rod and nut
-Remove the retainer clip and nut on the lower ball joint and use the ball joint tool to pop the ball joint from the knuckle. Do this on the other side. Remove knuckle from ball joint as to not break the lower ball joint boots which accidently happened to me. Its 15.99 from autozone to replace the ball joint.
-Remove the axles. Use a flashlight to see where to pop the axle from with a pry bar.

Underside car.
-Remove the two undercarriage plastic garnish which is held on by 2 10mm bolts and 4 machine screws and one nut. All 10mm.
-Remove the nut that retains the power cable and connector on the starter and remove the one 14mm bolt that holds it down. The other 14mm bolt that holds the starter was removed when removing the bolts on the top side. There is also a plastic piece that clips on the transmission that acts like a spacer for the starter. Don’t lose that. Remove the starter
-Removing the heat shield, there is a heat shield that is held on by two bolts and one nut right above the passenger side axle on the inner boot. You’ll see it if you look with your flashlight. This is needed to get to the transmission bolts and rear transmission mount.
-Remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt that is on the under the subframe of the transmission mount.
-Remove the bolt and nut that goes across the rear transmission mount. You may need to use a 14mm swivel socket for this like I did.
-Disconnect the o2 sensor (on top of the rear transmission mount) and remove the clip that attaches it to the mount and the clip that attaches it to the transmission.
-Loosen the engine to transmission bolts that hold it together. (Your floor jack may be in the way so figure out which bolts to remove before putting the weight of the engine on the jack)
- Place in a safe place where the floor jack and wood would go. I placed it right next to the oil pan on the engine and secure the engine.
**Warning: This is the part that needs a lot of attention. Safety is a huge factor and you can get seriously hurt and or damage your transmission and/or engine if you let it fall on you or the floor. *
-Remove the passenger side mount, 3 bolts on transmission and 2 holding it down to the mount.
-Use a pry bar, to slightly rotate the engine/transmission to remove the bracket that goes from the rear transmission mount to the transmission to gain enough clearance to use your tool. These bolts are VERY tight.

Transmission removal
DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING IS CLEARED OUT OF THE WAY: Wiring, bolts and clips.

- You can lower the engine just enough so the transmission can slide out. Use a pry bar to help you separate. It shouldn’t take a lot of force. If you tried and it doesn’t come out. Use a mirror and flashlight to see if you have any bolts or clips you haven’t removed. Having a buddy help you would be great if not use a transmission jack or floor jack but if you drop it on the floor and crack something, you are gonna be in a world of hurt.
-Clean everything.
-Grease up everything you’re suppose to grease up.
-This is another part where your buddy comes in handy. Pry bar against the flywheel teeth to hold it place while you remove and install the flywheel.
-Place the alignment tool inside the old clutch on the engine.
-Remove the pressure plate bolts and the clutch will drop once the pressure plate is removed. If you never done a clutch and want to know which way the clutch goes in this is why you put in the alignment tool in to figure out the which side the clutch sits on the flywheel
-Get your flywheel resurfaced, it’s a stepped flywheel if you’re wondering what you need to tell the machine shop. Shop around; you’ll be surprised in the price difference. Prices range from 35 to 75 bucks.
-Torque the flywheel bolts to 36ftlbs plus an additional 90 degrees.
-Torque the pressure plate to spec. I think spec is 14ftlbs, I did 15.

Installation tips:
Grease up any part that might give you trouble later like axle splines, dowel pins, motor mount holes.
Spray PB Blaster in any threaded holes, holes, nuts and bolts.

Transmission installation:
Again, a buddy to help you install is seriously helpful. You will need to use the jack to raise and lower the engine just a bit at a time to get the transmission to slide in. Once you get it just right with wiggling another jack and pry bar, it will go in. Took me about 15mins and I had a lift to work with.

Put everything back together in reverse order with torque specs and call it a day. Don't forget to put 75w-90 into the trans either through the reverse sensor switch or the fill hole.
I followed this to a T. All I can say is thank you brother. Clutch in and no problems. I have a 2006 xb. Man you saved me a lot of time.
I am doing the same thing and I'm having trouble getting the transmission separated from the engine. Just like Vetter said the bottom will separate but the top is still stuck. What's the trick to getting it out?
I just finished get this one out it's the top pins holding it back. Got to work it back in forth from the bottom to the top with a pry bar. But try to be a little gental.
 
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