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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I`ve been on here for the last few weeks looking for the best way to beef up my box.
Since my box is a DD, im looking to find a block so i can build my engine.
i figure this would be the best way to get what i need, when i have the money. along with the block im also looking to find a head either polished and ported, or one that i have done my self. if any one has any ideas, where i can get a deal on the two(engine block & Head)?
PLease feel free on suggestions on parts, what to use, so on....drop names

and has anyone heard of magnafluxing the crank?

plans are for a N/A engine and if i do change to boost or nos i know itwould be able to handle it after im done. Any help where i can get these parts will be greatfully appreciated

i know i will need the fallowing:
axles
pistons
cams,valves & springs
rods & bearings
2zz injectors
clutch, pressure plate & fly wheel
 

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Don't let the next comment discourage or upset you... But you need to spend more time doing research on what is available for the 1NZ-FE.

Unless you are willing to blaze your own trail and spend big (ridiculous) money, your best bet is forced induction. I say this because the only aftermarket internals available right now are designed for use with forced induction. And while these internals are much stronger than stock, they would likely REDUCE your horsepower if not used in conjunction with forced induction.

Now to address each of your items...

New Block and Head...
http://www.car-part.com
Get to searchin'. You can actually find these motors pretty dang cheap with fairly low miles.

Axles...
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/item170764.ctlg
This is all that is out there right now. They look very stout, but one of the people that installed them said they were having a couple issues. I am sure that will get worked out. These will be your best bet.

Pistons...
You have a couple options here. Eloy from Race Precision is doing a full build on his 1NZ for boost right now, and his shop is selling pistons. These are 9.5:1 though, and not meant for N/A applications. However, the same holds true for everyone else selling pistons.

As of right now, no one is selling forged pistons with anything but stock compression ratio or lower. There was one guy "Killerxromances" that claimed to have higher compression forged pistons making decent power on a natural aspirated build. He has since disappeared and never presented any real proof.

Anyway... take a look at these links for Pistons...
http://raceprecision.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51
http://www.raceeng.com/c-55-xt-xtp-pistons.aspx?pagenum=3
^^Unfortunately this site isn't working for me right now.^^
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/pek-toyota.html
^^Engine rebuild kit w/ gaskets, rings, thrust washer, main and rod bearings.

And as long as you are looking at pistons, you might as well get some rods...
Crower is making them now, but there is nothing listed on their site as yet.
http://www.crower.com

Speaking of Crower, they also do cam regrinds. No one is actually manufacturing cams for our engines yet, so a regrind is about the best you can get. The downfall to regrinds is that you really can't get whatever cam profile you want. If I understand how the regrinds work correctly, you are not able to modify the lift at all. The duration and the profile (how quickly the valves open and close) can be modified.

2ZZ (or any other) injectors can be found through many sources. Salvage yards, ebay, parts stores, dealerships. Just take your time, do your research and shop for the best value. VALUE, not PRICE.

Clutches, etc...
There are lots of options out there. Spec, Exedy, Clutch Masters, Centerforce. It is really a matter of preference and budget. Spec tends to have the lowest prices, unless you have a local shop that is willing to deal on another brand. And I believe Fidanza is the only company making a lightweight flywheel available separately for us right now. However Exedy offers a replacement flywheel as a part of the "Hyper Single Clutch" kit.

So there you have the basics. If you are really willing to forge ahead and spend the money on a N/A build, more power to you. Very few have even considered going this more expensive route.

I would just offer this advice. The first thing you need is a good tuner. Without that, spending all of this money will be useless. Find out what your tuner can do and what kind of engine management they like to work with. Chances are you will be going full stand alone on the build. Talk directly with your piston manufacturer. Clearance could very well be a serious issue with anything above stock compression ratios.

And lastly... just because I always have to bring it up when someone mentions going N/A. Look into the 1NZ-FXE from the Prius. If you can pick one up cheap, it may be worth having your builder see if they can make that bottom end work with the 1NZ-FE head and engine management. If it works, it would be the least expensive way to get into a n/a 1NZ build. Only problem is no one has tried it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
THANKS FOR THE INFO

But from my understanding , don`t you need to build up your motor in order to add boost or nos. from my 5.0 to my gsr civ, i havae had to change the pistons and do some work to the heads in order to take the boost i added.

so from what i hear is that i can add boost to this engine and not worry.
whats the max?
 

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i think you have your engine theory mixed up Creep. The head has very little to do with being able to hold the power from a boosted motor unless you are running high boost 25+ psi and your valve springs are not stiff enough to handle the boost pressure. The reason people build the bottom end of an engine, especially to n/a cars is because n/a cars use lightweight (weaker) connecting rods then a factory built turbo model would run. N/a cars will also run a higher compression ratio then a factory turbo car would as well so the boost level will be different on both types of motors. I'm not a xb engine expert so i don't know the MAX of the engine and how long the engine would last at MAX potential.

you really are going to need to decide on whether you will go turbo/sc, nitrous or n/a. Each build will be different with not only tune, but connecting rod choice, piston style, compression, piston ring clearance and timing/fuel to name a few. By running a turbo engine setup n/a, your car is going to be slower then a stock car since your engine has heavier components to move around and compression will be too low to make any decent n/a power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
THANKS TK
i know i will have to run lighter internals when i am a N/A engine. do they have them? is what im asking.
everyone tells me to just squeeze or boost it.. i want something that will last and perform.thats why im asking about the head and a block so i can stock look..

when i had my gsr it was a red top(type R) and i painted it black to look like a b16. and when i hit the gas it was like pow.. if you know what i mean. plus there was a little whistlen pete just incase to help out. people were surprised!

i just want a good motor to pin the rpms and that can keep up with some civs. from the past on other engines i know some head work and some lightened piston with pulleys, and the engine would wake up...

CAN THAT HAPPEN TO THE 1NZ?
 

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you're not going to find a lightened piston and there just isn't enough demand to make production n/a forged rods as well. With some money, you can get custom ones made and same goes for the pistons. Its not a big deal really, you just have to be ready to wait for them to get made.
as for your gsr, did it have a type r motor or just the valve cover? oem gsr valve covers were black. the engine code would be on the block designating the engine.

anyhow, build the bottom end, get a turbo or sc kit, get a proper dyno tune session and enjoy the car. if you want a light, inexpensive car that can go fast... get another honda
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
lol

thanks tk
i will try it your way....
since i`ve had early 80`s celica with a 22r and a 95 pickup also with a 22re
it was fun back in the day trying to get parts to make the go..

as for the honda motor it was a b18 red top that i painted it to look like a regular motor. you had to look twice before you noticed what it was...


Engine Code: B18C
Valvetrain: DOHC VTEC, 16 Valve
Displacement: 1797cc
Horsepower: 210 HP @ 8100 RPM
Torque: 134 LBS-FT @ 6200 RPM
Compression: 11.0:1
Bore: 81.0mm
Stroke: 87.2 mm
OBD: 2
Redline:8900 RPM


the day i bought it
 

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cool, must have been a jdm motor? you confused me when you mentioned the redtop since no one in the honda world talks about a motor being a red top. Normally only nissan guys do that, so you're trippin me out haha. i'm no pro at engines, but i've been around cars all my life and working in the industry for the past five years. feel free to post up any other things you're thinkin about and we can figure out if its possible or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
THANKS TK...

im looking to roll with xb drivers and see the whats the happs..
so if anyone is in socal... let me know when you meet...
 

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The cheapest alternative is to do a engine swap with more cubic inches meaning more power, IMO. But buy doing a search in my general area I see several 1.5l 1nzfe's for about $1000
 

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Creep... you have gotten some good advice in this thread. If you are in SoCal, you need to take some time to go by Race Precision and talk to Eloy. He is a great guy, and will be able to provide some of the best advice out there when it comes to the xB and making power.

Anyway... for a daily driver you just want to perform better, I would go with an intercooled turbo kit with a good tune and mild boost. Say the 6-8 psi range. If you are wanting more, I would go with an intercooled turbo kit, and aftermarket internals. Eloy will be able to get you all of the parts, do the installation if you want and all of the tuning when it is ready.

I would also look into the turbo kit from Turbo Toyotas. In my opinion, it is the best kit on the market for our car today. All high quality parts, and pretty decent pricing for an off the shelf kit. Talk to Todd over there if you are interested in the kit. http://www.turbotoyotas.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
THANKS RTON20S
i have been talking to a toyota guy at zero point industries.
he says we can get about 18hp + out a head port/polish.
i will also talk to eloy and see what i can do.. i really like everyones input
and im half way to a turbo kit financially... i will keep you guys posted on what i do...
 

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You might want to ask ZPI some serious questions about their headwork. Is that 18hp boosted, or naturally aspirated? If it was boosted, what was the setup? What sort of engine management was used? Do they have at least a dyno print out to show the dyno runs? Do they have pictures of one of the heads they have worked?

I only ask because I haven't heard of ZPI actually doing a head yet. I know it has been on their site for a long time, but then again, so have a lot of things.

There has also been another person over on SL that attempted to have his head worked on a N/A build. He wasn't running a normal engine management, or piggy back though. He only had the Power Enterprise's Cam-Con. The results of all the time money and effort on the head were nil. No noticeable gain. Suspicions led him to believe it was the stock ecu doing it's thing. Doing what it had to do to get all of the sensor readings back into the acceptable range of the factory tables.

Now, I don't want you or anyone else to think I am knocking ZPI. If they have spent some time working 1NZ heads with good results, I would love to see it. I just haven't seen anything about it yet. And for me, it is a whole lot of money to put out for something that doesn't have a history of success.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
have you heard of lc engineering?
i have also looked into them... the work on all sorts of toyota engines...
 

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Yeah... I remember LC Eng from way back when a bunch of my buddies were building Yota mini trucks. Last I checked their site they weren't doing anything with the 1NZ. I think they concentrate more on the truck side of things. Though it never hurts to make a phone call.
 
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