Ok, So i just had to do this this weekend and it was pretty easy. Disasembly and reasembly took about 1 hour total.
30mm 12 point socket
3/4 socket and wrench
Needle nose plyers
High temp bearing grease
First loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel you will be working on. Once that is complete, raise the vehicle with a floor jack and secure with a jack stand for extra safety and dont forget to set the parking brake.
Remove the wheel you will be working on and place under the vehicle, again I do this for added safety. I started by inserting a flat head screw driver into the opening on top of the break caliper and into the edge of the brake disk to prevent the disk from spining. I then MADE SURE the vehicle was not in gear and started with a round pointed chisel to raise the indentation on the outside of the axle nut, being very carefull to raise what ever I could from the outer edge of the bend and finishing raising the indentation with a flat head screw driver. I then with a 12 point 30mm socket and breaker bar removed the axle nut form the CV Axle, BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO BUGGER UP OR DAMAGE THE THREADS.
With the axle nut removed, I then went with removing the complete wheel caliper in one peice with brake pads still in it by using a 17 mm socket and removing the two rear bolts that attach the caliper to the steering knuckle.
I then removed the 14mm bolt that holds the brake line (and in my case I was working on the driver side) and the speedometer cable to the shock assembly. Once that bolt was removed, i was able to seperate both the speedo cable and the rubber brake hose. I then secured the caliper to the top of the front coil/shock with a zip tie to get it out of my way.
I then used a 10mm socket to remove the bolt which holds the spedo sensor to the steering knuckle, once removed, it allowed me tuck it out of the way.
I then moved on to remove the cotter pin from the tie rod castle nut and completely took off the castle nut with a socket (forgot what size) and with a rubber mallet, gently disconnected the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
With this complete, I was able to turn the steering knuckle at an angle that allowed me to remove the CV axle from the hub. I gently pushed on the outer threaded part of the axle to push the axle out of the hub, the more axle slid out of the hub I angled the steering knuckle until the axle was completely out. I didnt just leave the CV Axle to hang from your tranny, I supported the CV axle with a jack stand.
With the CV Axle removed, I then used a 3/4 ratchet and wrench to remove the two bolts that connect the top of the steering knuckle to the bottom shock assembly. I then proceeded to disconnect the steering knuckle from ther lower control arm by removing the funky cotter pin and using a 17mm ratchet to remove the bolt, If you hare having trouble removing the bolt due to it spinning, try angling the steering knuckle to apply side preassure to its sidewall, that should give you enough grip on it for it not to spin and you to be able to remove the nut. Now with a rubber mallet, i gave the bolt a couple of taps on the top and the steering knuckle came right off.
I didnt not have access to a 10 ton press which is needed to press the hub and bearing in and out of the steering knuckle, so I had this done at NAPA. The pressing charge cost $40 dollars and the bearing cost me roughly $45. Make sure you tell who ever is doing the pressing to make sure they remove the retaining clip at the inner side of the knuckle before they do any pressing and when you get your part back, make sure the clip is put back in.
This is my first write up and hope it helps many peeps out there. I know I know, I DIDNT TAKE ANY PICTURES, well if my passenger front side goes out, I will take plenty of pics for you all.
I forgot to add that when i reinstalled everything back together, I put some hi temp bearking grease on the inner part of the steering knuckle.