Pretty simple really. But to start off, i am a complete noob when it comes to rear brakes and it seems pretty much everyone i asked is a noob as well. So with no knowledge and very little help (info over the phone), i quickly learned how easy rear rotors can be to work on....also, DO NOT USE A SLEDGEHAMMER AND FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER ON ROTOR REMOVAL!
What was a simple summer-to-winter wheel swap quickly turned into rear brakes completely locked and parking brake not working. Ok, so i try to push and it doesn't budge. I get a lower pushing stance (and actually put some shoes on instead of slippers) and the brakes went "KaChing". It rolls now but it feels like they are still grabbing somewhat and my e-brake isnt even engaged. So i jack the car back up, take the wheel off, and bang on the rotor with a hammer hoping to free the seized brakes......a few hits later they are free but no e-brake. Figures it wouldn't be that easy - so i say screw it and call it a night.
I spend the next day scanning the interweb for solutions, calling whoever i have in my phone, and the best advice given to me is bang on it with a sledge hammer and use a flat head screwdriver to pry so i can hopefully wedge the rotor off. Big F'n mistake because after banging on the rotor for 3 hours and using a screwdriver to pry, my entire lip of my backplate for drum is scarred all to hell and my rotor is banged to shiz from the sledge. which now leads me to replacing a wheel stud - seems my dumbass managed to hit one of the studs which ruined the threads! and it seems that when i said "F It" and put the wheel back on so i could drive to work, it seems i forced it on to where it will never come over without breaking it.
So now that you have just spent the last 3 minutes reading my F-up's (thanks btw), onto the pics of what i have done to correct my problem and hopefully educate some people on rotors, e-brake adjustments, and wheel stud replacements. thanks
Replacement Studs which are specific for front and rears:
Front: 10.9 266
Rear: 10.9 244
what your drum looks like off the hub:
(notice the 4 holes for your studs and the 2 extra threaded holes*important)
what i used to get drum off after sledgehammer and screwdriver:
(allen head wrench and 2 threaded allen bolts - will get details later on bolts)
basically you put the 2 allen bolts into the threads on drum and basically tighten a little at a time back and forth until it works its way off (like a fulcrum). be careful not to overtighten as this may strip what little threads you have to use to get drum off, but just a word of caution. doing it this way literally took me 2 minutes tops to take drums off compared to the 3 hrs with hammer and screwdriver, which still didnt get the job done! So there is my lesson learned and hopefully this will help someone in the future on how to remove rear drums the easy way!
stud removal tools:
(that little dinky claw hammer, PB Blaster, and impact for re-pressing bolt with lugnut)
reassemble hub to rotor, mount wheel, tighten down lugs, lower car, and your all done. i will honestly say this was so much easier then a stud replacement on my 97 S-10 i had, so much easier!
more pics of rear rotors and parking brake adjuster just for reference: