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post #21 of 29 Old 03-27-2019, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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No problem. Keep us posted if it comes back
I will
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post #22 of 29 Old 03-27-2019, 07:08 PM
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Re: Need help after mechanic broke my car

Damn now this is the way this club worked back in da day !!! Hope this works for you !!!
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post #23 of 29 Old 03-27-2019, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Damn now this is the way this club worked back in da day !!! Hope this works for you !!!
Hi dubeexb06!
Yeah I'm so glad to get help. I always try to help others too if I see something and know anything about the subject.

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post #24 of 29 Old 03-27-2019, 08:16 PM
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Yea I recall years back this place was booming. Not many ppl around to help now. Still fighting my own issues on my box. Thinking I got it figured out hopefully lol
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post #25 of 29 Old 03-28-2019, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Yea I recall years back this place was booming. Not many ppl around to help now. Still fighting my own issues on my box. Thinking I got it figured out hopefully lol
I won't be much help, but if you want to share your problem(s)...
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post #26 of 29 Old 03-29-2019, 08:58 PM
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P2770 code.
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post #27 of 29 Old 04-04-2019, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Need help after mechanic broke my car

The original problem still persists.
This thread was to resolve what the mechanic broke whilst diagnosing the rattling sound from pulley area. I thought water pump. He thinks AC clutch. Is there a way to diagnose myself? Really can't afford a real mechanic right now.

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post #28 of 29 Old 04-13-2019, 02:05 AM
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Re: Need help after mechanic broke my car

Regarding Bassman's issue:
Did you ever get around to replacing or inspecting the oil control valve/solenoid? If so, any improvement in regards to your P0011 and P0300-304 codes? If not, this is the listed inspection specifications, according to the xB service manual:
2. INSPECT CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE ASSY
(a) Resistance Inspection
(1) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals.

Resistance: 6.9 to 7.9ohm at 20C (68F)

(b) Movement Inspection
(1) Connect the battery positive (+) lead to terminal 1 and negative (-) to terminal 2,
and check the movement of the valve.

NOTICE:
Confirm the valve moves freely and does not stick in any position.

Hint:
Foreign objects in the oil can cause subtle pressure leaks in the valve. The pressure leak will cause the cam to advance, this condition will usually set a DTC.

Need help after mechanic broke my car-ocv_diagram.png
When you remove the OCV, in addition to the above tests, it may be worth it to also give a quick clean, using non-chlorinated brake clean, or other sensor safe solvent of your choice. Also depending on your oil change intervals, an oil/filter change may also alleviate the issue if it is a debris/sticking issue.

If new or verified good sensor, oil change/filter provide no improvement, and all your basic ignition components are also in good condition, I'd begin looking at cam/crank position sensors and/or whether the timing chain jumped a tooth.


If things have improved, I'm glad that worked out for you. Hopefully I can now help with your original issue of some rattling noise coming from the belt-ish area.



To quickly/easily diagnose or rule out the water pump pulley, belt has to come off again unfortunately. But even according to Toyota's manual, water pump inspection consists of:
1. INSPECT WATER PUMP ASSY
(a) Visually check the drain hole for coolant leakage.
(b) Turn the pulley, and check that the water pump bearing moves smoothly and quietly.
Basically with the belt off, just turn it, try to wobble it back and forth, by hand. There should be no significant amount of play in any direction, without any sticking points or "grittiness" when you rotate/spin the pulley. If you find any excessive play, wobbling, or grinding, you've likely found your culprit (hopefully the only one). Either the pulley is not snug on the water pump (3 bolts hold it on) or the pump bearing/shaft is done and the entire assembly would need to be replaced.

For the A/C Clutch, you can use a similar method to the water pump if you'd rather kill two birds with one stone.
With the clutch disengaged, the pulley should spin pretty freely with no excessive wobble or side/up-down play, no grittiness or grinding as you spin it.
With the clutch engaged (apply 12v to the positive wire running off the clutch coil), it should be hard to turn but still no excessive play, grit or grinding.

Otherwise, with the engine running and belt on, you can visually inspect that the clutch is engaging/disengaging properly by switching the ac on/off and watching whether the outer clutch plate gets pulled and then spins with the pulley.

The same criteria can be applied to the other, alternator and vane(PS), pulleys as well.


Hopefully that helps and you can figure out what's rattling around/causing your CEL.
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post #29 of 29 Old 04-13-2019, 02:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RD5062 View Post
Regarding Bassman's issue:
Did you ever get around to replacing or inspecting the oil control valve/solenoid? If so, any improvement in regards to your P0011 and P0300-304 codes? If not, this is the listed inspection specifications, according to the xB service manual:
2. INSPECT CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE ASSY
(a) Resistance Inspection
(1) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals.

Resistance: 6.9 to 7.9ohm at 20C (68F)

(b) Movement Inspection
(1) Connect the battery positive (+) lead to terminal 1 and negative (-) to terminal 2,
and check the movement of the valve.

NOTICE:
Confirm the valve moves freely and does not stick in any position.

Hint:
Foreign objects in the oil can cause subtle pressure leaks in the valve. The pressure leak will cause the cam to advance, this condition will usually set a DTC.

Attachment 73228
When you remove the OCV, in addition to the above tests, it may be worth it to also give a quick clean, using non-chlorinated brake clean, or other sensor safe solvent of your choice. Also depending on your oil change intervals, an oil/filter change may also alleviate the issue if it is a debris/sticking issue.

If new or verified good sensor, oil change/filter provide no improvement, and all your basic ignition components are also in good condition, I'd begin looking at cam/crank position sensors and/or whether the timing chain jumped a tooth.


If things have improved, I'm glad that worked out for you. Hopefully I can now help with your original issue of some rattling noise coming from the belt-ish area.



To quickly/easily diagnose or rule out the water pump pulley, belt has to come off again unfortunately. But even according to Toyota's manual, water pump inspection consists of:
1. INSPECT WATER PUMP ASSY
(a) Visually check the drain hole for coolant leakage.
(b) Turn the pulley, and check that the water pump bearing moves smoothly and quietly.
Basically with the belt off, just turn it, try to wobble it back and forth, by hand. There should be no significant amount of play in any direction, without any sticking points or "grittiness" when you rotate/spin the pulley. If you find any excessive play, wobbling, or grinding, you've likely found your culprit (hopefully the only one). Either the pulley is not snug on the water pump (3 bolts hold it on) or the pump bearing/shaft is done and the entire assembly would need to be replaced.

For the A/C Clutch, you can use a similar method to the water pump if you'd rather kill two birds with one stone.
With the clutch disengaged, the pulley should spin pretty freely with no excessive wobble or side/up-down play, no grittiness or grinding as you spin it.
With the clutch engaged (apply 12v to the positive wire running off the clutch coil), it should be hard to turn but still no excessive play, grit or grinding.

Otherwise, with the engine running and belt on, you can visually inspect that the clutch is engaging/disengaging properly by switching the ac on/off and watching whether the outer clutch plate gets pulled and then spins with the pulley.

The same criteria can be applied to the other, alternator and vane(PS), pulleys as well.


Hopefully that helps and you can figure out what's rattling around/causing your CEL.
Thanks for the reply! Lots of info here
I got the cell light to go away by simply unplugging and relying the hardness to the VVT solenoid, and then resetting the codes.

I will look at the pulleys as you explained on my daughter's next day off.
The AC clutch does engage and the at blows cold.
There's no water leaking afaik, but I will confirm at a later date.
The alternator is the easiest to verify, but I don't think that's it.
I'll pay back later this week hopefully with my findings.
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