Looking at the FSM, it's a pretty straightforward procedure. Maybe a little time-consuming, but difficulty isn't too bad. Pay attention around the AC condenser, and you should be fine.
- Drain coolant
-Disconnect radiator hoses
-*If you have an automatic* - Disconnect the ATF cooler hoses (at the bottom of the radiator)
- Remove grille
- Remove front bumper cover
- Remove hood lock assembly
- Remove hood lock support brace (2 bolts at each end, and 1 in the middle - see image 01
- Remove radiator support opening cover (see image 01)
- Remove upper radiator support (see image 02)
- Remove radiator assembly (see image 02)
- Remove the filler neck from the radiator
Installation is the reverse.
If you have an automatic, be sure to get a radiator specifically for that transmission. If you get one made for a manual, you'll have to add an external ATF cooler.
Any chance by removing the bumper, I will trigger the air bag sensor? I understand to disconnect the negative terminal, the last thing I want is for my airbag to blow
Thank you Steve! I did this successfully over the weekend. Only thing was, I broke two bolts that were severely rusted. One twist on the ratchet it snapped right off, now the head is inside.
That is easy to do, and rust is a real bear to keep up with. I've sheared two bolts on mine so far, including the one for the pivot nut on the throttle body when I was installing cruise control about 3 years ago. Fortunately, someone here had a spare TB that they shipped me for a very reasonable cost.
Just this weekend, I had to back the lug nuts close to the end of the studs and drive around an empty parking lot to break my left rear wheel free of the bug after they rusted together since my last tire rotation. They got a good coating of grease before everything went back together.
When my wife goes to visit her dad in Chicago in a couple of weeks, I'll move my car into the garage and do some sanding & touch-up painting on the rock chips.
Poke that head out of your socket with a screwdriver or awl through the back side. I've had to do that a time or two, as well.
A bolt extractor is probably your best bet - it's basically a reverse-threaded screw that you tap into the sheared bolt. As you tighten the extractor, it works to loosen the stuck bolt. You can buy kits with various sizes at hardware & parts stores or online. Drill bits for metal are also good to have. Here's a How-to video
You may want to apply heat first. I have one of those little kitchen-sized butane torches for this - cost me ten or fifteen bucks at WalMart plus a three-dollar can of butane I haven't exhausted yet. Torch the bolt to get it good and hot, and then apply a wet rag to cool it immediately. The rapid and extreme heat cycle will help break free some of the corrosion. Then you can drill the bolt and use the extractor. Take the broken bolt to the hardware store to match the threads for a replacement.
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