Scion xB Forum

Post Your Spring/Shock Combo: 2nd Gen xB's

859Toaster — Thu, 02 May 2013 03:33:00 GMT

Spring and Shock ONLY or Coilovers ONLY! NO AIR RIDE!

I did one of these threads in the xB1 suspension section and it went over great. Lots of good info to be found in one place, tech and reviews.

So here's how it works:

Struts/Shock: OEM
Springs: Tanabe DF210
Wheels: OEM Steel 16"
Tires: Basic touring tire.
Sway Bar(s): OEM
Other Suspension mods: None currently
Driving style: Under the speed limit, Cruising, back road
Pics:

Review: Haven't really pushed this yet to see how well it now carves a turn, but I can say that for a daily driver ride height, it's perfect no matter where you live. No excuses for "but our roads suck". These just suck up the wheel gap, not "slam".

Am I too old for an xb?

Boogie — Wed, 20 Feb 2013 20:04:39 GMT

Tomorrow is decision day. I am looking at a new, white (only color they could find in the state with a 5spd) 12 xb. No upgrades as I want to do them myself. But, thats the part that got me thinking, am I too old for an xb?

38 divorced, 3 kids. I've been divorced for two years and was forced to sell my pride and joy jeep to keep my house. Things have settled back down and after two years of driving a beat up 97 camry I decided it was time to treat myself to something else.

I was drawn to the xbs due to price, decent mileage, toyota motor, customizable (reasonably priced) and did I mention price?...

But again, am I too dang old to have a xb, trd/tien spring lowered, 18s, rear wing, system?

DIY: Cabin air filter removal

ColinM14 — Sun, 13 Jan 2013 14:35:00 GMT

Ok guys, it's been a while since I changed mine so I figured I'd do a DIY on how to replace your cabin air filter.

A cabin air filter is a filter placed on top of your blower motor to filter out any harmful or unwanted debris from getting to you when you turn on the heat or ac (fans in general). After reading you'll be able to save money and ensure your actually getting the work you pay for! It's a cheap and simple procedure.

Symptoms of a bad air filter or clogged filter could be :

-Noise
-Bad smell
-Low fan speeds
-Etc

1. Find your glove box
Attachment 22964

2. Open the glovebox and remove its contents.

3. There are two retaining tabs on both sides, you'll need to push in the sides of the glovebox where I point to. When you push in the sides of glovebox in, the tabs will release the glovebox from the dash.
Attachment 22966
Attachment 22965
4. The glovebox can now be removed.

5. Locate the cabin air filter door. Shown where I'm pointing.
Attachment 22967

6. Pull the door out towards you, the drawer that holds the filter will slide out.
Attachment 22968

Attached Thumbnails

DIY: Plasti Dip your wheels

Silentgarth — Mon, 24 Sep 2012 01:23:00 GMT

Do at your own risk!

I saw this post http://www.clubxb.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46932 , and it got me searching around the internet. I found many sites where other people have done it so I thought why not.

What you need:

4 trash bags
wheel cleaner ( I used windex)
a rag
and at least 2 cans of plasti dip ( I bought mine at Lowe's, since I work there. Should be around $5 - $6 ea.)

First thing to do is clean your wheels. I just sprayed mine down with some windex and let it set for a few minutes. Then wiped them clean.
Second thing that I did was took some 120grit sand paper and sanded down all the road rash that the previous owner put on the rim. I also had some areas in the center where the paint was chipping off. Basically I wanted to smooth out a lot of the scratches and chips on the wheels.

Here is a pic of the first wheel.

If you watch the video that is posted in the original link, it shows how to put the bag on the brake hardware. Basically cut the bag on one side to almost the bottom and pull through the openings and wrap around the drum/rotor.

Next step is to apply the plasti dip. The trick is to apply light layers. The first layer needs to have about 90% transparency. Depending on the temp outside, give the layers 5-15 minutes to dry between coats. It was around 55deg when I did mine and waited 15 minutes between coats. I have almost a 1/2 can left after doing all 4 wheels. You might have less or more depending on what style your wheels are.

I put about 5-6 coats per wheel.
1st coat

2nd coat

Final coat

Before:
These pics are of different side of the car, but gives the idea of the change

.

Now I did see on an Infiniti web site ( i think) the guy did about 3 heavier coats then topped it with a wheel paint of a different color. The nice thing about doing this is that when you get tired of the color you just peel it off and do something different.

---------- Post added 09-23-2012 at 10:00 PM ----------

Here is a video showing what I just did above

Drove my first Scion xB today

Greasyman — Tue, 04 Sep 2012 02:09:00 GMT

I drove a 1st gen xB today, first time I even sat in one. Even though I've been researching them, I was pleasantly surprised by how big the interior was. It's small on the outside but so big on the inside. The gigantic windshield and the short hood add to the impression of openness.

The space looks very usable, there aren't things like the wheel wells jutting into it, and the rear opening is very large and square. You could probably fit some good sized pieces of furniture in there, like a kitchen table, or a love seat, or an easy chair, probably even the dining room toilet. I don't think sunroofs are available, but you don't need one because there's so much head room the sky sneaks inside.

The dash has a lot of nice little storage areas, and I like the look of the speedo/tach, which isn't positioned at all awkwardly, even though it looks like it in the photos. It's a bit off center, lined up with my right shoulder.

It drove a lot less sporty than I hoped, it reminded me most of an old VW bus, tall and low-powered, with the gear shift located so you hang your right arm straight down to reach it. I could get used to it, and it was fun in it's own way. Seemed nimble because it's small, but the suspension felt pretty soft, hard to tell for sure in a short test drive. The power wasn't really that bad, I'd call it adequate. Made me appreciate the performance of my WRX when I got back in it for the drive home.

I was also pleasantly surprised by how roomy the engine compartment was, but that could be because at 1.5 L the engine is so tiny you could put it in the glove box and have plenty of room left over. It's nice to have working room, but from what I've read these engines are so reliable I'll rarely need to get in there.

All in all I really liked the vehicle. It's simple, utilitarian, reasonably fun, cheap, and there seems to be a fairly good sized aftermarket. I can live with the 108 hp, and the suspension can always be helped if needed. I didn't like the particular xB I looked at, it wasn't a well cared for car, but I'm going to look at a couple others in the next few days.

The Scion scene: The rides of ClubxB.com

PCH — Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:06:00 GMT

I want to establish this thread to create the member's rides gallery. Most of us have posted many pictures in various threads of this forum: builds, shows, photoshoots against beautiful backgrounds, etc. Here is your chance to post just one picture of Your Scion for everyone to see.
No comments, questions or explanations– only the picture with minimal text letting everybody know the year and basic data about Your car. If You have or had more than one Scion (xB, tC, xA or xD) then go ahead and display them all in one post. I recommend posting a link to the personal thread in the Member's Rides section if You have one going on so people can continue conversation there. Or use Reputation option to express Your opinion of the car You see.
If You decide to change the picture later just contact me using the Private Message option and I will edit Your post. If you want to ask someone a question about their car then You can use PM as well.
Simple enough? I hope so. One post per member, one picture per car.

2006 Thunder Cloud Metallic.

Automatic Transmission flush service explained

PCH — Sun, 08 Apr 2012 06:22:00 GMT

With slightly over 80K miles on the odometer, it was definitely the time to replace the fluid in the automatic transmission. Since a quick drain and fill only changes half of all fluids, a more involved procedure is recommended: the transmission flush.

It is performed by using a fluid exchange machine like the one made by BG. It is a method of choice of many independent service facilities and dealerships too:

The tank inside the machine gets filled with about 14 quarts of oil. It is twice the amount the transmission uses – some of the new fluid goes to waste to ensure that all the internals are completely cleaned of the old contaminated fluid:

The fluid exchange machine is connected in line by hooking up to one of the cooler tubes:

Once the engine is started, the transmission pump will begin flowing oil through the line and the oil will be gradually replaced. The sight tube gives a good view of the fluid's condition:

By the time all of the new fluid has been used, the sight tube should show clean red colored oil. The flush on my xB took about 30 minutes.
That is what is inside the transmission now and all of the old oil has been collected inside the machine:

Since there were no signs of leaks at the transmission oil pan it was decided not to remove it. So the transmission oil strainer/filter was not replaced. While it is recommended to replace it with every service, from my experience it is fine to leave it in until the next time. The transmission filter has much longer life than that of an engine oil filter and I do not think there are any debris or sludge to restrict the flow. Most of the time the special cleaning solution is added to the transmission to help with the process and it is recirculated for the extra 10 minutes or so before doing the fluid exchange.
I chose to stay with Toyota Type T–IV ATF recommended for the car. There are more choices for quality transmission oils available, like RedLine, BG, etc. But it is critical to the transmission's life to use what has been specifically approved for use.
Obviously the flush is not a DIY type of maintenance and is only done at the shop. I hope this write–up will help the fellow xB drivers to understand this necessary service better. Doing it at every 70–80K miles is normal.
Most shops have this type of equipment on hand but not everybody stocks the factory recommended oil, opting instead to use universal fluid which is totally fine as long as its comparability with the transmission is not in doubt.

Modding Techniques: Rod bending

PCH — Wed, 29 Feb 2012 07:22:00 GMT

I get this question asked all the time: How did You bend it? Many interesting things are possible to be created out of aluminum rod that can be bent at much sharper angles than tubing, since rod does not collapse. Of course it requires significant effort, especially when working with larger diameter stock. But the tools are simple: thick wall steel pipe does the job.
Here is my regular set for working with materials of 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" diameter:

Bending the rod that is secured in the vise:

It is just the matter of trial and error to get it done at desired angles. But the material if very forgiving to small adjustments and once everything is sanded and buffed and tool markings have been polished off, it is going to look clean:

Here is how this technique got applied to make the instrument cluster trim:

It took a while to get the angles correct on this storage area bar, but in the end everything worked out and fitted correctly:

So this is what it takes: some fantasy, time and effort with the help of right tools:

I hope it gives someone a cool idea and the way to make it come to life. Enjoy modding:)

Hatch Handle Garnish trim with a zip tie fix

PCH — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 06:34:00 GMT

In this write up I am showing another option on fixing the broken end studs of the rear hatch handle. After hearing some feedback from people who installed the repair brace covered in this thread: http://www.clubxb.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41979 , I thought of an alternative to the epoxy and grommet repair shown in the DIY http://www.clubxb.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37142
While the brace will hold the hatch handle just fine without the end studs, the garnish may look more flush with the hatch body panel after very light tightening. Wire ties can provide enough force to achieve that. All the fasteners and tie wraps with a screw mount are readily available from most hardware stores.
#10 screws, nuts, washers, ties and plastic spacers 3/4" long with the ends rounded off:

The garnish will need two holes made for the screws to go through. Yes, they will show from the outside, but in most cases the part is really trashed and this is the alternative to buying a new one. So, break off or grind away all of the old plastic holding the stud and drill new holes:

Now the wire ties can be attached. Spacers will prevent overtightening and flexing of the garnish:

Both sides are done and there is no interference with the wiring:

To dress it up a little I cut a strip out of 3/4" wide aluminum plate. This cosmetic trim adds to the overall stiffness of the handle:

Now the garnish will follow the curve of the body panel from end to end:

To tighten the ends from the inside of the hatch I used the locks from another pair of zip ties:

All done. Shiny look may not be up to everyone's taste, so paint, vinyl wrap or sticker bomb the way You like it:

Hatch Release Button replacement

PCH — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 08:07:00 GMT

Having seen few really bad cases of the factory hatch release failure due to the combination of environmental conditions (usually it is the temperature, ozone and exhaust fumes that with time become lethal to the rubber cover), I decided to come up with the solution based on a generic momentary switch.
Here are the recent pictures posted by xB owners that experienced this problem:

Sticky release button is not only unpleasant, but may also prevent locking of the hatch since the switch will be slow to return to the OFF position. All that makes the release work is a momentary ON–(OFF) switch that controls the electric actuator. Any kind of reliable waterproof button will do the job as long as it can be fitted into the stock opening. To hold that button I fabricated a simple plate that could be bolted to the hatch garnish instead of the factory release:

Once the wires are connected and contacts have been waterproofed with silicone, the new switch assembly is installed:

Now all that needs to be done is cutting off of the old factory release and connecting the wires to the new button. The plate that holds the button can be cut out of metal or plastic. Another version fabricated out of aluminum angle:

Removal of the hatch garnish assembly holding the release switch is fairly simple: pull the clips holding the inside trim board, unplug two wire connectors and unscrew the three nuts. Factory manual for reference:
http://scionlife.org/Scion_Docs/2004...eplacement.pdf
http://scionlife.org/Scion_Docs/2004...r/conponen.pdf

Door Lock Relay safety fuse install

PCH — Mon, 09 Jan 2012 06:27:00 GMT

The Door Lock Control relay is very sensitive to the electrical overload and can fail if extra care is not taken when modifying the dome light with the aftermarket LED's or adding load to the dome light circuit. Here is one example of the damage that can be caused by that:

The transistor that controls the dome light overheated and that ruined the whole circuit board causing the complete loss of the electric door lock operation (this is the picture from one of the threads discussing this problem). The $400 part sure needs some extra protection even though the dome light has its own 15AMP Dome fuse.
The factory installed light bulb draws only 0.5 Amps and the relay is surely capable of handling some extra current, but by the time the Dome fuse blows the original load will be exceeded by the current about 30 times stronger. That is why we need to add another fuse to the wire from the relay to the dome light:

I bought the universal inline fuse holder and installed it in the Red/Yellow wire at the passenger side D pillar. The wires were extended to have the holder mounted in the easily accessible spot behind the tail light service cover:

The smallest fuse available to fit that holder is 2 Amps. Even though it is 4 times the current that the stock bulb draws, it will protect the relay better than the 15 Amp fuse we have. Now the ultra expensive relay is safer from the overload by the occasional short or added lighting modifications.
Now I will be installing my flood LED from Oznium with the peace of mind. It draws less current then the original bulb but with any modification the extra care is needed, especially when we play with the car's electrical system.

Here is the Interior light diagram for reference: http://scionlife.org/Scion_Docs/2004...s/IntLight.pdf