New setup

texicali_xB2 · 07-23-2008, 03:29 PM

bad pictures i know, but its all i have right now

FrankH · 07-23-2008, 05:36 PM

Sweet. I bet that bumps! ..A few questions.
How much of that box is fiberglass? Just the top?
Is it mounted to the floor?
Thats a 12" right?
Is that 4 gauge?
Do your lights dim when the bass hits?
What single din kit did you use for the dash? I looked for one for a while and I ended up paying kind of a lot for a scosche one on ebay. It should be at home when I get there (In on vacation in San Antonio, TX for 2 more days).
Do you know how much that orion amp puts out at 2 ohm?
Are you door speakers stock?
Do you have an amp for the highs?

Thanks for sharing your pictures.

-Frank

texicali_xB2 · 07-23-2008, 10:01 PM

yea, it bumps like crazy. it'll make a gatorade bottle buonce around on the roof

just the top is fiberglass, i had big plans for it to go into my f150, then i got the xb so i just threw it in the back. it doesnt really flow with the car, but for now i don't care
its not mounted to the floor. i want to be able to get to my spare if necessary. so far the box hasn't moved around at all
its a 12 (Orion H2)
4 gauge
lights dont dim at all
im not sure what brand it was, but i randomly found it on ebay for 15 bucks
it does 800 at 2ohm and 450 at 4ohm (CEA ratings)
the speakers are stock for now, but my plan is to go with either cadence zxc comps or alpine type r comps. powered with an alpine f300 amp. but i am concerned that this will put me over the top and i'll have to add a 2nd batt or alternator, which i don't want to deal with
im also going to be replacing the HU with a kenwood ddx512 or a ddx6019
no problem.

texicali_xB2 · 07-26-2008, 04:43 AM

more stuff added. i just switched out the head unit to a clarion max385vd
gotta wire up a switch for the video ground wire then get a swi jack so i can use my steering wheel controls and i'll be set.
pics will be up soon

ok, still bad pics, but its almost 2 am so i don't really care
here's the head unit. watching Black Hawk Down with a little bypass switch. also put a switch for my amp turn on so i won't kill my battery with my sub while im watching a movie

FrankH · 07-26-2008, 05:23 PM

That HU looks awesome!
Do you plan components in the rear?

texicali_xB2 · 07-27-2008, 04:30 AM

im running all stock speaks right now.
i think im gonna get my windows tinted and do some other stuff then come back to that

John08xB · 07-30-2008, 03:30 PM

give me money

FrankH · 07-31-2008, 12:40 AM

John lol, are you trying to reach your 30 posts?

texicali_xB2 · 07-31-2008, 07:23 PM

thats what im guessing. at first i thought he was some spam thing, but some his other posts actually make sense

FrankH · 07-31-2008, 07:40 PM

texicali, do you really think that adding a 300w 4 channel amp will demand an upgrade alternator or second battery?
I hope just replacing the stock battery with a higher cc rating battery ( optima yellowtop) and a capacitor will be enough. And Im running a 1000w and plan on getting a 550w 4 channel. Ill watch my voltages to be sure but I think Ill be ok. I think youll be ok too if you upgrade the stock battery. I dont know the quality of it, but Id hate to find out it sux by finding it boiled all over my engine bay...

texicali_xB2 · 08-01-2008, 11:36 AM

yea, im not exactly sure on how much i am worried about it. but i realized that for now stock is ok and i want to do some other things, seeing as i already have dropped like a grand into audio

don't bother with the capacitor. i only have mine in my car because i bought it before i knew any better and it made it easier to run my power lines
read this from where it says "why do my lights dim?"

so far i havent had any battery problems, but i also just recently realized that i have my amp fused at 80 amps. at 14 volts thats 1153 watts. so i havent even reached the potential of the amp (1200) or even peaked to that much power (and thats assuming the amp is 100% efficient).....which really makes me wonder how loud that sub would get cause its supposed to take 2000 watts.
you're really only going to have a problem if you crank it up ALOT. which is the point, but for me, i have wayyyyy more available than i need

John08xB · 08-01-2008, 12:59 PM

yes need 30 post to make a thread about my carPC and post pictures..its just silly..

and i do want your money

texicali_xB2 · 08-01-2008, 01:17 PM

haha, well get some posts in here, it keeps my thread on top so everyone can see how freakin sweet my car is, hahaha

FrankH · 08-03-2008, 02:05 PM

Yes, Tex, I have read that thread stating caps are worthless, but I have experience where they improved the sound and stopped lights dimming. I believe they work, and like you said, they act as a great distribution block with a voltmeter even...

texicali_xB2 · 08-03-2008, 02:23 PM

what was the setup, and how big was the cap?

FrankH · 08-05-2008, 09:00 AM

it was a 1000w alpine mono m1005 and a 800w rockford 800a4, each with their own 4g to the battery. The mono amp had the cap, a 1 farad monster cable capacitor.

**NoLimitzInd** · 08-05-2008, 10:48 PM

Caps do work if used right. A cap is not a fix all. If you are lacking voltage already a cap will not fix it. It will act like a band aid. Now if you are just needing that little extra to help stop the lights from barely dimming or just want to make sure your amps have the current they need then a cap is a great choice. The best thing you can do for a system that is lacking voltage is the alternator. But that is the most expensive part usually.
I am running (2) HC800 Kinetik batteries and no caps right now. I am using the Rockford T600-4 and the T1500-1BD amps. I do have some voltage drop for sure. It does help to upgrade all the grounds on the motor. Running large power wire also helps. If you are wanting more play time when the car is not running, then add another battery.