Here is the DIY.
I used 1.5 inch wide 1/8 thick alum plate from Home Depot. All other stuff came from B&B Hardware.
Step1: I made a cardboard template. Map out the holes for the standoffs and switches or lights you are going to use.
Step2: Make the actual panel. I used files, drill, sandpaper and hacksaw. Paint to your liking (its better to paint after the pre-install)
Step3: This is the panel with all the hardware. The standoffs requred were about 2 inches tall. A couple of plastic pipe fittings and few washers gave me the right measurement. It really helps if the screws have a snug fit through the spacers when doing the install. As you see i plugged the ends of the standoffs with plastic caps which keep the screws in place. Also its better to have only plastic parts as spacers not to leave any more permanent marks on dashboard as required. Using screw head covers gives a clean look. Use nylock insert nuts- they will not loosen up.
Step4: Prefit the panel. Press on the screws to leave a mark where the holes in the dash will have to be made. This is where it comes really handy not to have the screws loose in the standoffs.
Step5: Drill the holes for the screws. Another hole for the wires has to be drilled too. I chose the most descrete location at the top. Working through the fuse panel openinig i was able to fit some tools. Remove switches for better access too.
Step6: Install the panel (after you got the switches hooked up). Use washers as needed to get the panel "float" in the dash recess. I can run a piece of paper between the panel and dashboard all around. That insures that the panel will not leave marks on the plasic.
Should you have the panel permanently removed, the standoff holes can be plugged later to minimize the "damage".
Hope that helps!!!
.. i mounted my switches on the 3 lil spaces under the dash oven..
