this is what grave sent to me..... ill post it here so gfreat minds can think alike
hmm... how long is the positive cable? you could be dieing from voltage drop while at a low idle speed which can be caused if the positive cable from the battery is a bit too long. that break in the line with it being bolted together would "in theory" cause a disturbance in the feed but it wouldn't be noticeable to the ignition system of a car... that would be like... high frequincy pulse width modulation area or what have you.
take a volt meter to the end of the positive cable while the engine is running and see what the voltage is at while at a low idle speed of around 600-800rpm. if it's getting below 12v while running, there's a problem... if the voltage is too low, best thing to do is to either make sure the cable is one solid piece or upgrade to a higher gauge to drop the cable resistance ohm rate *the thinner and longer the cable is, the higher it's ohm rate which results in faster drop in voltage as voltage travels on it*.
another thing is, if the cable is longer than say around 5-6 feet, you may also be dealing with problems that are more along the lines of physics rather than car electrical systems and mechanics. as the cable gets longer, it's resistance goes higher which inturn causes the wire the be less and less efficient. the result of this is wire getting warming, as it gets warmer, it increases in resisting ohm rate due to the wire surface area expanding from the heat.
that being said, 4 gauge wire is only capable of supporting upto about 60amp of continuous current. now that being said, it could be that your wire is expanding from heat and giving an even higher resistive path ontop of having voltage drop from the cable length...
THE BIG QUESTION HERE...
after a full month, why do it now... if this all was really the issue, it would have started doing it on day one.
i would check every little connecting, twist and turn on the wires and cables you used and modified. look for any tight spaces where a piece of stamped metal has cut into the wire and causing it to short out. look for loose fuses on your lines. also know that the Kinetik battery is a very simple build and that the cells on the inside are simply wired together in paralell and may have had a loose connection from the factory *which can be fixed easily*. check everything possible, even your amplifier *if you have one* make sure no wire fibers are crossing and causing a short anywhere. also check your new main grounding point, make sure the metal is very exposed and getting loads of contact with the ground wire so that it's secure. there's going to be loads of posibilities for this to happen.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCH  Notice that every time it died, the RPM were the lowest, so alternator's output was not enough to keep the engine running. |
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the actual engine stays running no problem
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i have noticed that when in park with it car running it does idel kinda wacked, like the rpm's will drop pretty low and the car will shake a little.
when the rain lets up ill see it i can kill it the way you sudjested once the girlfriendg gets home mind you lol
the positive cabel is approx 8ft long, voltage at the battery is 13.8 at idel and under the hood at the inlet to the power for the car (at the end of the 8 ft) is the same 13.8
