new xb owner with an issue

sid · 11-05-2009, 09:25 PM

i never knew that too eric, thanks victor.

Black_Box · 11-05-2009, 09:56 PM

my cars idled in -30 for 30 minutes to an hour before.lol..the cat's got to be rotten

ketchup_xb · 11-05-2009, 11:17 PM

it just sucks when its still "blue" the engine doesnt pull as much.

Black_Sheep_xB · 11-09-2009, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ketchup_xb

it just sucks when its still "blue" the engine doesnt pull as much.

I saw this on a live data scan.. it is in a different fuel cycle (Injector Duration, Loop, Etc.,.) until it gets to "temp"

I always give it a full minute or two to get the oil flowing, then drive at under 4k until it goes off.

Black_Box · 11-09-2009, 08:12 PM

it keeps the engine in lower gears to allow tranny and engine to get to temp quicker and also is a helper in lowering emissions.

Black_Sheep_xB · 11-09-2009, 08:13 PM

That's on an automatic then? Had no idea it kept you in high rpms with the auto.

Black_Box · 11-09-2009, 08:19 PM

this is what i was taught at UTI. more info

. When the engine coolant temperature
is still low, your vehicle’s automatic
transmission will up-shift at higher
engine speeds than when the coolant
temperature is sufficiently high in
order to shorten the warm-up time and
improve driveability. The gearshift timing
will automatically shift to the normal
timing after the engine has warmed
up....

and pulled from a scion owners manual

When the lever is in the “D” position, the
automatic transmission system will select
the most suitable gear for running conditions
such as normal cruising, hill climbing,
hard towing, etc.
Always turn the overdrive on for better
fuel economy and quieter driving. If the
engine coolant temperature is low, the
transmission will not shift into overdrive
gear even with the overdrive on.

Black_Sheep_xB · 11-09-2009, 08:24 PM

interesting.. then perhaps being in low rpm's with the manual trans is not necessary.. just don't hit the rev limiter

PCH · 11-09-2009, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Black_Sheep_xB

I saw this on a live data scan.. it is in a different fuel cycle (Injector Duration, Loop, Etc.,.) until it gets to "temp"

What's different?

Black_Sheep_xB · 11-09-2009, 09:13 PM

It's been a year.. and my scanner is "lost" at a friends house.. but here is what I remember:

The blue light directly correlates with the O2 Sensor.
The O2 sensor needs to get to temp to start sending signal.
During that time, it is in closed loop, injector durations are in a fixed pattern based on other sensors.
At the moment the O2 sensor heats up and starts reading, the blue light goes out, it goes into open loop, and you can see injector durations doing there mili-adjustments based on air/fuel readings.

RazoE · 11-09-2009, 09:14 PM

when you first turn on your car, your car's cold, so it's running rich..

once it warms up the light goes off (since we don't have temperature gauges), and the fuel mixture leans out..

excessively rich conditions are hell for your catalytic converter, so it's only reasonable that the colder the engine is, the longer it runs rich, the worse it is for your cat.

now, if you turn it on, let oil pressure build (only a few seconds, we don't drive old Chevy Novas), and take off normally...

avoid stepping on it, as your car's not sufficiently lubricated yet, and coolant is not running through the radiator, as the thermostat hasn't opened. Dissimilar metals will expand and contract at different rates, and if you drive MKIII Supras like I do, you know that can lead to a dreaded bad head gasket..

bbszero · 11-09-2009, 11:26 PM

Index of /Scion_Docs/2004_xB_Owners_Manual

FREE!!!!

ketchup_xb · 11-09-2009, 11:32 PM

i thought the blue light was for underwater expedition? lol jk.

Black_Sheep_xB · 11-10-2009, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ketchup_xb

i thought the blue light was for underwater expedition? lol jk.

Dive Mode: Engage!

neno714 · 11-10-2009, 02:05 PM

you can always ask the dealer 4 a xb manual

Black_Sheep_xB · 11-11-2009, 08:32 AM

The manual just tells you to not idle and not to "race" the engine when the blue light is on.

O6er · Today, 01:19 AM

ooooooookaaayyy! So I will lay this one to rest...with the help of the owners manual and what PCH said.
When the "blue sail boat" (and that is what I nick named it before reading this LOL) is on your engine is warming itself up to the proper operating temperature. Now just so EVERYONE knows why I can figure all this out; I will spell it out.
My morning consists of getting up around 6:30AM and getting ready for my day at the shop. Well I leave around 7:00AM and the drive is EXACTLY 1.3 miles......Yes that dang close. The blue sail boat is on, because I live in Michigan of course; Most of the way there. The 1.3 Miles consists of 2 stop lights, the first is a blink/red left and the second a red/green straight. Now by the time I am half way there the light goes off. Now in between is this....
The car will idle approx 100-300 RPM higher. And when shifting through gears on my auto (and yes I wish I would have bought a stick after learning how to drive one) The torque convertor on over drive will not kick into 4th gear like it should. Also after a couple minutes of driving and getting stuck at the second light, it will idle at 1000RPM.
Now after the light goes off (and I realize I am speeding :P ) the torque convertor kicks into 4th gear and the car runs at at more efficient RPM and idle. All the reason; The car is warming itself up by having the engine run higher at idle or drive to keep the fluids circulating more so they can warm up faster. In my humble opinion or IMHO as it would be called. It was a great idea on Scion/Toyotas part to put something like this into the cars ECM. I know when I am late it gets annoyng and I will let my car idle in the parking lot just so it can run and get warm. Though a genius idea. Best thing to do for anyone else in a similar situation.
If you care about your car (like all of us do) Get up earlier and take a scenic route to work/school.

-Sincerely
--The Mobil 1 Man