Scion xB Audio, Video, & SecurityScion xB in car entertainment (aka Scion xB I.C.E.). With all the room available the sky is the limit when adding Scion xB car audio and video. While you're tinkering with the Scion xB electrical system why not install a Scion xB security system.
ok sooo i wanna build a box and wondering what should i go with two 10's or two 12's? also which brand kinda new to this stuff but i dont really know. any info is greatly apreciated thanks guys. also 4 ohm 2 ohm i dont know
had two 12's before and I missed my trunk. I rock 1 10 and it's fine with me. Not really into bass as I used to be. But I think my 10 knocks good enough for me
If you have a Gen1 you should buy my 3-12's setup.
depends on what you want to do and if you want to have a little room to store a few things. with my 10 JL's I still had plenty of room for cleaning supplies and what have you. but with my 12 JL's I lost a lot of rear cargo space although the 12's hit a little harder 10's aint no slouch.
trunk space i dont care i dont really have any now. but they looks like crap plus its time for a change. so im just trying to figure out what brand i wanna go with
lol im doing 2 15's i wonder how that will go cuz that looks pretty crazy with one and to the op id go with 4 ohm because you have more controle over your amp and sup and prob 2 12's just have the right box for the subs or it will sound like shit the box i built for my xb is 8 cubic feet and thats what it has to have not what i want
2 15s worked ok mine where old my boss wanted to get out of storage thats why i got them cuase they where cheap i liked them buttt i dont want them one is blew out and the box is ugly and i want something nicer. sooo what brand hifonics polk ma jbl whatelse?
in all honesty, if you wondering what 2 15's would be like, using 4 12's is more devistating. there's more surface area moving air. the basics accounted for, 4 12's is nearly equivelant to 2 18's *roughly 1 and 8/10's simular to using 2 18's.*
you CAN also take another route. you can also go passive radiator, use half the power, half the amount of space used and result it the same amount of output. the only cost is the low end cuttoff point which tends to drop about twice as fast compared to a vented enclosure. BUT most of the time a passive radiator design can normally hit the lowest extensions of the audable zones of the human ear anyway, so that drop is nearly impossible to hear.
i've been working on a 2x 12" passive radiator design. 2 actual 12's and then 2 passive radiator counter-parts of the same actual powered subs. about a rough 600watt capable max pull. hits everything from 18hz and up at around 130-133db capable output. the sub boxes are only 0.75cuf a piece as an example of tthe room you save. you tune passive radiator enclosures by adding mass *weight* to the passive radiator cone. the heavier the weight, the lower the tunning is from the original tuning from factory weight. you also don't deal with port flutter noise, no acoustic echoing and no muddy sounding points within the range that it's intended to play in.