[Kuriboh4]

hmm ok, i might just mount them in the rear somehow, but i dont know how to get the wires connected....anyone know how, or is there a diy somewhere?

i already have em, took em from my caddy.

they sound pretty good, i actually like bose

[gravebox]

well... if you plan on connecting it to the exsisting system, you may run into some problems.

you could simply wire them in parrallel to the rear speaker lines *positive to positive, negative to negative*. but you'll run into resistance problems. that much of a darastic resistance change will caause the head unit to either go into protection mode *if it's even got it...* or it'll fry some fuses or it's self possibly.

when you go too low in resistance, you cause the amplifier unit it's self to forcefully generate more power then it's capable of handling, puting ALOT of stress on circuits. because of this, you generate a butt ton of heat too which is where the killer comes in. stressed circuits + heat = epic fail. sometimes an amplifier will take any ohm resistance rate... but going too low still will cause your sound quality to go down the drain due to no real resisting path that the amplifier can see and thus your speakers flop about.

going too high in resistance will just cause it to produce less power and eventually send a clipping signal to the speakers which will overheat and fry the speaker's voice coil...

so you have a trade off...

for your idea here, you'll have the "too low" situation and i don't know if our stock head unit has a protection mode at all... so you're taking chances there and your rear sound quality will go down the drain due to much too low resistance and your rear speakers wont have any real control over them selve's.

[animantoric]

They may have sounded good in the caddy, but that's only because they were specifically designed to work in it. The Bose factory stereos are matched to the car with various boxes and tuned enclosures so they won't sound anything like you think they did. Also, Bose uses different impedances to do what they do and are generally bad to add to standard systems. A majority of the Bose speakers I've pulled out were in the 1-2ohm range. Standard car audio is usually 4ohm...

[czar]

I used 3½ in dash, 6½ in doors and 5¼ in rear all infinity reference.

[Box_Boy]

I have 6 1/2 infinities for the doors would that work?

[chopperxb]

Hey i was looking at getting some kenwood 6.5 for my front and rear but it sayd 40 watts rms and my amp will push out more than that. What will that do to the speakers will it distort will it not hurt them should i get a better and bigger speakers

[Waldo]

I was thinkin that if I put 6 1/2 in the front doors, couldnt you replace the exisisting speaker cover with plexi or something?

I also wanted to put speaker in the rear doors, has anyone else done that?

[bigguy]

Why waste money on the rear speakers? unless you have alot of people riding in the bck the rears in an XB are useless, even more so if you have a sub back there. better to invest the extra dough in to the front speakers, get an amp for them or to fiberglass them in for a better sound stage.

[Waldo]

True, true....I guess Im a little anal when it come to everything lookin the same.....like if your gonna have underdash glow, then get glow for the back too.....so to me it makes sence to have speakers in the rear doors too...ya know wat Im sayin?? but I guess there really not nessicarry huh?

Originally Posted by bigguy

Why waste money on the rear speakers? unless you have alot of people riding in the bck the rears in an XB are useless, even more so if you have a sub back there. better to invest the extra dough in to the front speakers, get an amp for them or to fiberglass them in for a better sound stage.

How the heck you do get off the stock speakers from the front anyhow?? there special bolted to the frame......I dont wanna destroy the old speakers either

[bigguy]

Originally Posted by Waldo

True, true....I guess Im a little anal when it come to everything lookin the same.....like if your gonna have underdash glow, then get glow for the back too.....so to me it makes sence to have speakers in the rear doors too...ya know wat Im sayin?? but I guess there really not nessicarry huh?

How the heck you do get off the stock speakers from the front anyhow?? there special bolted to the frame......I dont wanna destroy the old speakers either

If they were in the back doors i would say replace them, but the are behind the back seat.

they are rivited in. you have to drill out the rivit.

[Waldo]

Originally Posted by bigguy

If they were in the back doors i would say replace them, but the are behind the back seat.

they are rivited in. you have to drill out the rivit.

ah, thats right, I had actually forgotten that there are rear speakers back in the trunk lol thanx......

ok, would you just replace the rivit with a screw on the new speakers then? or re-rivit it? or nut and bolt it?
(I wanna find all the info I can before I attempt it lol, dont wanna destroy too much)

[bigguy]

Originally Posted by Waldo

ah, thats right, I had actually forgotten that there are rear speakers back in the trunk lol thanx......

ok, would you just replace the rivit with a screw on the new speakers then? or re-rivit it? or nut and bolt it?
(I wanna find all the info I can before I attempt it lol, dont wanna destroy too much)

Not to sure i have yet to replace any speakers in my XB

[Waldo]

ok, thats cool.....the stock ones are pretty stable now anyhow.....I just have a feeling that when I replace the head unit ill have to replace the speakers soon after

[bigguy]

I am trying to plan my system in the xb, but i just had a kid so the $$$ is a ltlle tight.

[gravebox]

plan smart, then shop smart.

if you'd like some help with a decent setup for what you're looking for, let me know.

all i need to know is the types of music you'll want to listen to, your volume level habits, if you'll be watching movies and so on. every detail will be helpful to make it the best bang for your buck

[bigguy]

Originally Posted by gravebox

plan smart, then shop smart.

if you'd like some help with a decent setup for what you're looking for, let me know.

all i need to know is the types of music you'll want to listen to, your volume level habits, if you'll be watching movies and so on. every detail will be helpful to make it the best bang for your buck

Thanks for the offer, i made a thread.

[laserxb06]

Any body experienced better sound with aftermarket speakers driven with factory receiver power only, no amp?

These is what I just purchased. Polk db651 6.5 in for front, infinity reference 4 inch for dash, and infinity ref, 5 1/4 for the back, will the sound improve?

If am correct the dash speakers are hooked in parallel to front. would it be better just to disconnect the dash speakers to deliver more power to the 6 1/5 inch on the doors? I am not going to blast the sound, just seeking cleaner better sound at normal volume levels. I am aware factory HU may have some equalizations but maybe it does not since you have the 2 settings on the head unit to set it to normal.

Any suggestions with possible solutions will be appreciated.

[gravebox]

Originally Posted by laserxb06

Any body experienced better sound with aftermarket speakers driven with factory receiver power only, no amp?

These is what I just purchased. Polk db651 6.5 in for front, infinity reference 4 inch for dash, and infinity ref, 5 1/4 for the back, will the sound improve?

If am correct the dash speakers are hooked in parallel to front. would it be better just to disconnect the dash speakers to deliver more power to the 6 1/5 inch on the doors? I am not going to blast the sound, just seeking cleaner better sound at normal volume levels. I am aware factory HU may have some equalizations but maybe it does not since you have the 2 settings on the head unit to set it to normal.

Any suggestions with possible solutions will be appreciated.

i just PM'd you about this. simply changing the drivers out wont do much at all for sound quality without changing the headunit too. on the other side, our stock system is a pretty decent system to begin wiith and only needs a little boost on the bass end of things.

[laserxb06]

Originally Posted by gravebox

i just PM'd you about this. simply changing the drivers out wont do much at all for sound quality without changing the headunit too. on the other side, our stock system is a pretty decent system to begin wiith and only needs a little boost on the bass end of things.

Hey thanks again gravebox! a few questions.

Do you or anyone know what the oem speakers are made of, what kind of tweeters they have, power handling etc?


Would you recommend just adding an amp to existing speakers? I have a 4 channel amp with cross overs and will deliver 70 watts to fronts and bridged in 3 ch mode can drive a sub with 180 watts at the same time.


Also I have been reading about this inline converter you mention, I think is most commonly known as LOC (line output converter) I have been told not to buy a cheap ones under $60.00 because they can only handle low power. I have been told the best way to go is with the Audio control LC series, it handles over 200 watts per channel and it does bring almost equal sound to aftermarket head unit.

And last. What is your set up gravebox?, I read about your new project with bass radiators but I would like to know what speakers you have in your xb and if you are driving your full range speakers with an full range amp.

Have a good weekend!

[gravebox]

my setup is simple and straight to the point. i use the Stock headunit and stock full range set. my LOC is actually about 20-25 dollars at Best Buy and has it's own voltage control over each of the two channels it taps into. my current subs are Tangband W8-740P's *two of them* in about 0.75cuf vented enclosure. amplifier is a JBL BPX500.1.

if you get the right LOC, you wont need to worry about power handling on it. if it's made properly, it should simply be a addon resistor that has it's own resistance stabelizing circuit which is a common thing to see in any addon unit that's tapping into a resistance based electrical design. like i mentioned above, i got my LOC from BestBuy, the brand of which i don't remember but it's a cylinder shaped silver LOC with wires to tap into rear left and right output wires from the headunit, ground wire and remote wire. on the other side of it, it has left and right RCA and a voltage sensetivity adjustment for each side. it's sound quality seems to be rather decent aswell but since it's being used to supply signal to a bass producing network, it's really hard to tell. there's no added harmonic distortion or anything, only coloration i'm getting is from the subs them selve's in that vented box. small subwoofers with large excursion capability and a bore based venting system for the voice coil = lots of added noise from the motor structure causing coloration and harmonic echo which ultimatly makes a vented enclosure sound even more muddy.

my amp is a 2ch / bridgeable, so it only powers the subs. the full range stock system is still powered by the stock headunit. i use my SSP (i think that's the setting name?) setting set to xA mode on the headunit with treble at 4 and bass at 3. the LOC's voltage settings at set to about 50% of it's maximum setting. amplifier is set REALLY low due to the current subwoofers not being capable of handling much more than about 250watt where the amp is capable pushing around 700watt at that load.

if you're not planning on having a sub system that draws more than 750-1000watt, you shouldn't have a need to do a full upgrade of everything. with my setup, i can only turn the stock headunit's volume to about 35 out of 60 i think and that's specifically due to the subwoofers taking a crap around 38-ish *the Tangband's*. they do leave a decent kick in the chest, but they're just barely scratching at my expectations. that should give you a prime example of what kind of system you should look into. i still have almost half the output headroom of my stock headunit left and at volume level 35 on it, i'm already ratteling chests inside the car and annoying people outside of it

for more detailed info, current VS new TS specs are listed below of what i'm using.

current subs are as follows:
TangBand W8-740P 8 inch
150watt RMS
Enclosure - Vented shared (aprox. 0.754 cuf tuned to 34hz) 2 drivers
4ohm
2" voice coil
12mm Xmax
QTS - 0.30
QES - 0.30
BL - 13.35TM
LE - 3.18mh
MMS - 95g
QMS - 10.53
VAS - 23liters
FS - 28hz
Sensetivity - 84db 2.84v/1m
SD - 220cm^2


New subwoofer to come:
Peerless 830500 12 inch
300watt RMS
Enclosure - Passive Radiator split (aprox 0.880cuf per box, 1PR per driver, 175g added to each PR) 2 drivers
8ohm
2" voice coil
12.5mm Xmax
QTS - 0.21
QES - 0.20
BL - 17.6TM
LE - 4.2mh
MMS - 166g
QMS - 3.7
VAS - 139.6 liters
FS - 18.4hz
Sensetivity - 90db 2.84v/1m
SD - 466cm^2