damn, ok well here it goes then. lets hope thieves aren't smart and do research on how to steal things.
ALRIGHTY, first, tools...
ratchet wrench, 14mm socket, phillips screw driver, mini flat head screw driver, dyk plyers, lots of small zipties. needle nose plyers.
supplies needed - amplifier installation supplies such as main power cable, remote wire, RCA cable, speaker wire and so on. *upto* a 4gauge half inch power connector (x2), electrical tape and large zipties.
the idea - an amplifier installation so stealth, it looks stock.
*WORD OF THE WISE, if you are not experienced with amplifier installations or any kind of electrical work, i advise against doing this your self and recommend you find someone with experience. this installation requires both bassic electrical knowledge and basic upholstery skills and patients. i am not held liable for any injuries or damages that may accure in the process of this install.* REQUIREMENTS - please note this only works with those who have amplifiers that fit the size criteria of 16inches in length, 12 and a half inches in width and thickness of upto 3inches. amplifier also must not be under heavy load and should only be used for daily listening due to cool restraints of the setup. *the best way to go is use an amp that is within the 60-100% more power capacity than that of your combined total RMS capability of your subwoofers. this will ensure low running temps from the amplifier.* also note that it is probably recommended that owners who do this weigh no more than 180lbs if the shell of the amplifier isn't built stronge *if installed on the driver seat, weight should still be noted on passenger seat aswell* otherwise the weight can cause some amplifiers to bend, warp and crack. INSTALLTION NOTE! - be sure to pre-tune your amplifier / audio system before doing this install. this will be a nearly permanent setup and you wont be able to reach your adjustables without having to tare half way into the seat again to get to your adjustables. so be surre to pre-tune your system ahead of time and get it just right.
First, we're going to need to pull the front seat out. doesn't matter which one, both are suitable.
you'll need to flip the seat upside down and take the cover closest to the door side of which it came from off.
next, the lower flap of the backrest will lift over, you'll see some little metal rings. you'll need to snip these off. there are three outside and three inside. after the first three, the inside three will be viewable and accessable.
outside three here *one in the middle too*
inside three here *one i the middle too*
after this set, you'll be able to expose half of the needed area that we are working on.
next, on the front side of the back rest are two metal rings, once again they need to be cut in order to expose the rest of the room we need.
left side *between the bucket edge and middle backrest cushions*
right side *same thing*
now on the back side again, we need to take off the little useless hanger on the back of the seat. use a phillips screw driver for the screw on it and then pop the hang hook down and give it a pulling tug towards you and it'll pop right off.
once off, you'll be able to expose the full area *picture shown before taking the hanger off*
now, given you have the right amplifier size for the project, it should sit nice and snug right in the cavity of the seat.
once the amplifier is mounted into the seat. simply lift the seat back in and bolt it down. i sugjest roughing the rear single bolt mount area up and use that as your grounding point. tuck, wrap with electrical tape and weave your cables and wires in there and then make sure you've pushed them far to the side so that you can get the button of the backrest cushion back in *didn't mention this before but gives more room to work with as you do the install*. once done, you'll need to use those small zipties *use the large ones to mount the amp to the metal necking back rest support inside of the seat* to ziptie the upholstery back to the points where it was originally secured with those little metal rings. i suggest using 2 zipties for each point to make up for strength differences. you'll need that half inch wire ring connector to bolt down securely to your grounding point of the seat. it may be a bit of a pain to do it, but give it some juice and it'll fit in snug on the bolting point. make sure to wrap up all the cables into one main line of cable with black electrical tape and then form the giant cable mass to the side of the same mounting point you use to for the grounding point. if done right, it will look stock and noone would be able to tell the differenct.
once done, you should be able to stand back and not even notice a single wire or anything. do know though, the cloth on the back isn't all that thick, so if your amp haas any LED lights on it's top side, there is a chance it will shine through if it's bright enough. mine don't... if they are too bright, put some electrical tape over the top of them while doing the install so that it blocks the light.
the finished product should be like this
