DIY: Sonar Projector light dispersion fix

gravebox · 01-23-2009, 02:06 AM

This is for us Sonar Projector + HID users.

Something I noticed about the Sonar's projectors was the awkward light dispersion... At least on mine that is.

Instead of a flat *-- --* beam, it seemed to be more of a *\/ \/* beam (obviously MUCH less dramatic on the angles but you get the point).

Well, because of the beam dispersion, I was constantly getting flashed by on coming traffic because of the outer edges blinding them. If I adjusted the lights any lower, I wouldn't be able to see the road for my self. So... the next best thing came to mind, fix the block plate inside of the projector so that it produces an even beam of light.

FIRST!
You'll need a number 2 screw driver, an accurate square edge ruler and a fine tooth file *for metal or wood, it's just an aluminum plate we're working with, real soft metal*. You'll also need some black silicone to help release the headlight housing after you're done, the original seal will not keep it's original seal.

SECOND!
You'll need to cook your headlights in the oven for this and open them up. Put them in at 215 degrees for roughly 7-10 minutes. Once done, it'll be HOT but just pull the clear lens off the main housing, make sure to undo the clips all the way around as you go.

THIRD!
Follow the following pictures step by step and just go backwards to put it all back together.

taking these screws out will release the projector lens from the housing. be very careful and just tip the headlight housing over for the lens to just drop out. TRY TO KEEP YO' GREASY A$$ FINGAH'S OFF THE CLEAR BLING YO!

taking these screw out will release the 2 part projector housing from the light angle adjustment housing.

tipping of the projector housing to drop the lens out. like mentioned above, this can be done before taking the projector housing out.

some people have lens on their glasses that are similar in thickness

taking these screw out will release the 2 part projector housing and the blocking plate that we will be modifying.

may e difficult to see, but look closely at the main flat of the blocking plate. see the small unique cut in the metal? that's what we're after.

another picture of the blocking plate. one plate before filing and the other after. the knife tip is pointing at the somewhat difficult to see unique cut.

excuse the blur, i help the camera with my legs and used the timer for this one. this is showing the filing being done.

before filing

after filing

I used a small LED flashlight to see the finishing results. Actual HID difference will be different but it does help ALOT!

Enjoy.

Black_Box · 01-23-2009, 02:19 AM

id make the batman symbol...awsome write up!!!

crex149 · 01-23-2009, 02:52 AM

Nice. I had that same problem with my projectors/HIDs. I had originally given up and removed the housings just to sell, but now I'm thinking about doing this and reinstalling. Thanks for the DIY. Now if I could just get the damn things to stop flickering when they start. Stupid cheap a$$ ebay kit. Need to drop some $ on new bulbs I guess.

gravebox · 01-23-2009, 03:26 AM

it's not really the bulbs, more on the ballast and igniter.

i JUST got the HIDs back in, there's still a downward arch to the light but it's ALOT better than before. maybe with a bit more filing to the block plate in a downward arch shape will help correct this, all that would be needed is adjusting the up and down angle, down a bit to counter the added light.

i'm going to have to send a message to the guy i got my full kit (Sonars + HID kit) and see about getting a new ingniter for the driver side ballast. i thought i lost a bulb... turns out both bulbs work fine, the igniter isn't doing it's job, ballast seems fine, it's giving it's "buz" noise when turned on... just no ignition...

i'd use my meter on it to see but i'm a little iffy with testing the 23,000 volt igniter

Black_Box · 01-23-2009, 03:41 AM

dont do that! we got strobes on the C-17s well trouble shoot, well shoot for power going to the power supply, but will not shoot voltage coming out.....ya...bad idear!

gravebox · 01-23-2009, 03:54 AM

^^yeah, i have a pretty damn good data base built in my head with electrician skills... it's just the 23,000 volt part that makes me rather... not willing... lol.

Black_Box · 01-23-2009, 04:10 AM

yep...multi-meter go BOOM with 23k volts, lol.

gravebox · 01-23-2009, 05:00 AM

i gave in and bought a another set of ballasts.

the ones that came with it are the slim xenon housing based so the igniter is outside of the ballast shell. the new ones are those bulkier xenon ballasts with the igniter inside the shell with surge protection and CPU monitoring. the slims came with nifty voltage meters that also show how many hours the bulbs have on them. thinkin about jackin those and connecting them to the new ballasts.

anyway... DIY topic wise...
i'll pull them again tomorrow and have another wack at them and get an even line going and post the results. as of right now... it's WAY too damn cold outside to put my bumper back on and go have a look down the road...

crex149 · 01-23-2009, 05:06 AM

That's the thing, I can change the ballasts around, and it stays with the bulb. I even put them in my wife's tc and it still does the same. The ballasts I'm using are Hellas.

On topic tho, do your lights let you adjust the hi/low beams indepently up and down or do they move together? My set moves both up and down, so to keep from blinding oncomers on low, they are down so low that my high beams don't get too much further out. Not a bid deal with the HIDs really, but it would be nice to see a little further on some of the roads I drive every night.

gravebox · 01-23-2009, 05:40 AM

adjustable independently, doesn't help when one ballast system isn't working either hahaha.

i think one more adjustment to the blocking plates and i should have a fully flat beam on both sides.

PCH · 01-23-2009, 10:56 PM

Looks like a great idea, good write-up too!

RavenWulf · 01-24-2009, 08:17 AM

nice write up man.
was thinking about opening up mine to do something with the orange reflector and changing the halos from white to red, but after seeing the 4th pic changing the halo LEDs looks like more of PITA than I thought it would be

TTxB · 01-24-2009, 11:15 PM

Do you guys have the SONARs without the amber?

I noticed the pics on ebay seem to sell some cleared of amber and some seem to have it?
What do you think?

gravebox · 01-25-2009, 06:32 AM

^^ no! don't do it. i can show you how to foil the amber reflectors out.

take the headlight housings apart, unscrew the amber reflectors and then take some tin foil and tightly but carefully wrap the amber plates with it. use the dull silver side to match the dull silver painted reflective area that's already there. screw it back in and the tension from you screwing it will keep the foil in place. i did the same thing to mine and it's doing fine. it's perfect to do and doesn't ruin the amber reflectors from using paint over the top.

UPDATE

i went to my buddy's place and used his table grinder to do an arch like curve to the blocking plates. again, i don't have the HIDs hooked up at the moment, the stockies are back on until i get the new balladts, BUT... it's looking good.

i used a round object about 24 inches in diameter to trace the curve into the metal. now it's shooting a perfect beam.

TTxB · 01-25-2009, 02:32 PM

A batch of Sonars came out with no amber at all on them.

Pre cleared.

I guess its technicaly ilegal that way?

gravebox · 01-25-2009, 04:53 PM

^^only for body shops

it's not really illegal, just against EPA regulations for body shops to put any new OEM or aftermarket headlights on a customer's vehicle if the amber reflector isn't present or if the reflector isn't of an amber color *if it's a clear one, it's not allowed*. in Calli though, things might be a bit different but it's just an EPA regulations thing in most states. most shops don't really know about it... then again, who's to say there is an EPA inspector in each and every body shop every day brown nosing every car coming in and out?

i would actually prefer to have a set of Sonars with clear amber reflector lenses just because it's cleaner looking.

TTxB · 01-25-2009, 05:24 PM

I guess as long as it has the amber bulb then it should be OK.
You know how you get the little credit card DOT thing that says they are legal when you get aftermarket lights?
I believe they will not send them along. Funny, I just emailed a ebay guy and the pic does not have the amber but the seller says they do.

gravebox · 01-26-2009, 04:46 AM

post the pic here, it's probably a picture from Viniati which shows the sonars but the reflector piece is a clear color from image editing.

Big_Kokujin · 01-27-2009, 08:21 AM

They still come both ways. The first set I got back in 06, like the ones above except they had clear projectors instead of the blue tinted ones, they had the clear reflector. A friend of mine bought some last year and they had the amber reflector. I bought some chrome ones last year and they also had the clear reflector in it.

If anybody wants to change from the amber to the clear, I have just the clear reflector. LMK...

You can kind of tell in this pic. This is the first set.

This is the second set...

Also gravebox, so people dont get confused...I think you transposed some letters in a word. In the "First" section you said "to help release the headlight" but I think you meant "reseal"

deezelium · 01-27-2009, 03:43 PM

is there a write up anywhere which shows how to pop off the front plastic on these? mine have a waterfall inside them so want to do a proper clearance job!