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Old 06-19-2008, 03:11 PM   #1
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DIY: Fuel Door Graphics Part 2

Step III: Gas door prep

I am not going to get too detailed about this as I think we all know what needs to be done here. Basically I masked off the back and sanded the front and sides to bare metal. Then a couple shots of grey primer, sanding between coats then 3 shots of white primer for a nice white background. I use clear decal paper so the background has to be white so your image will show. Just to be sure I then let it sit for 24 hours or per the paint instructions. The white primer instructions said that I could work after about 1 hour but it also said the primer completely cures after 24. The primer used was just a store bought spray bomb that I have used on numerous occasions for my die cast work. Again use what you know. Always good to trust ones own instincts.


Step Four: Decal Application

Now to be sure we have a good fit for the door its time to trace on the image and size it to the door. I used a clear or in this case a yellow sheet of overhead projector paper or plastic. works great and props to my beauitful wife for thinking of it!!
Fig 1.5


Once the clear sheet is centerd to the image to your liking just simply trace it out.
Fig 1.6

Fig 1.7


Now we are ready to apply the decal to the door. at this point you have this?
Fig 1.8


Once you are happy with the position you need to get a flat surface that can hold water so you can lay the image flat so that the whole decal gets fully saturated with water. I used one on the wife's baking pans. Thanks Honey!!


OK Now be sure that you have all the tools you are going to need. Tweezers small to move the decal into place of the door and possibly large to take the decal out of the water, Remember the "If" factor?
Fig 1.9


Once in the water give the decal about a minute to seperate for the backing.
Once you can see it start to seperate take in out and place in on the door. Dont let the whole decal seperate from the backing, it will make it easier to move the decal around on the door. be sure to put some water on the door face just so the decal will move easier than if it were dry.
Fig 2.0

As seen in Fig 2.0 line up the decal as best you can then just pull on the decal backing.

Now the pain in the ass part. To be sure no air bubbles for have a good light soruce around you and start to look at it from all angle to be sure. i used a little squeegie thing I got for fathers. its for wiping off the excess water from your box after a wash. This thing worked great and i am sorry i dont have a pic of it.

Now we have laied down the decal and for the most part it looks good

BUT......

Fig 2.1


So to fix the fact that my beauitful lovely sexy wife cut the decal too small we have to do some stretching. this is why i like the clear decal paper. as it very pyable. So now all we need to do is with dry fingers gently but firmly push the decal towards the edge and you will notice it slowly start to move. now if you coated the decal paper twice with the krylon then the image should be cool and shouldnt rub of when pushing. DONT WORRY the decal paper is pretty tough and will stretch. it may take some time but be sure the decal stays moist. if it dries up a little you risk ripping the image when pushing. remember moist surface dry fingers.

Once all the edge are covered and air bubbles are out just be sure to give it a once or 5 time over just to be sure. good lighting or sunlight helps here. once it drys all the mistakes, bubbles and imperfections come through so just be sure because there is no going back from here. You have about an hour or so to go back and fix any issues. Just simply water down the decal again and you should be able to move and or fix an problems

we are almost done......!!
Fig 2.2



Step Five: Clearcoating door.

Now that we have apply the decal and it is dry, 1 to 2 hours from now, you are ready to clearcoat and seal the decal onto the door.

Fig 2.3


Be sure that the clear coat you use can hold up to the elements. I have never used the Krylon for anything other that my diecast and those are not exposed to anything but dust and maybe sunlight. I used a spray bomb automotive clearcoat I bought from a place called Canadian tire (Like a Pep Boys or CSK Auto Store). Because I have never used this stuff I tested how it would react with the Krylon. No issues I could see so I sprayed away.

I went with 2 light coats, waited about 30 mins between coat as per instruction, they hit 2 more coats this time going on thick. the 2 thick coat i did after 24 hours. At the time of this DIY it hadnt dried so i dont have any pics of the final product but if the mods would be graceous enough to just leave the DIY open til the weekend I will post up a picture of the finished product!!


Special Note: I want to thank my Wife for helping me!!
She had the steady hands for cutting the images and the templates out!!
Thanks SP!!

Thanks for the view!

Thats it, any question hit me up at:
exo_kutioner@hotmail.com

Last edited by Exokute : 06-19-2008 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:23 PM   #2
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Re: DIY: Fuel Door Graphics Part 2

that's my old fuel door lol.. glad it got to u in 1 piece & that looks nice
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Old 06-19-2008, 05:17 PM   #3
Blah.. :D
 
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Re: DIY: Fuel Door Graphics Part 2

i happen to have an extra fuel lid door assembly up for grabs. if any of u guys wants it, pm me..
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Old 06-19-2008, 07:24 PM   #4
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Re: DIY: Fuel Door Graphics Part 2

thanks 4 tha good write up, I might have 2 d that 2 mines
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Old 06-19-2008, 08:50 PM   #5
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Re: DIY: Fuel Door Graphics Part 2

Great work and wesome write up, hope to see it soon!!
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Old 07-21-2008, 04:58 AM   #6
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Re: DIY: Fuel Door Graphics Part 2

Looks Great ....
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Old 07-26-2008, 04:37 AM   #7
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Re: DIY: Fuel Door Graphics Part 2

damn! we need to see that installed.
i just saw the green transformers graphic and thought this guy was doing doing a camo the same theme as exokute, then i realized it was you haha.
didn't notice it at the last meet did you have it on?
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