After a long wait, I've finally started building an engine for boost. As part of the process, I'm trying to document it all for a photo tutorial. As I make progress, I'll post it up here.
To assist with my build, I'm using the official Toyota 2004 Scion xB Repair Manual. It can be downloaded for
FREE here:
Index of /images/04_xB_Repair_Manual
The first post is on the engine Tear Down.
Tools needed:
10mm socket
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
6" extension
3/8" ratchet
1/2" breaker bar
1/2" to 3/8" adapter
12mm allen head socket
8mm 12-point star head bolt socket - $22 from Mac Tools, this IS the Toyota Special Service Tool
Mac Tools Online Store - SC100B
metal putty knife
rubber mallet
BIG flathead screwdriver
Items needed:
spare 1NZ-FE
Optional:
Engine stand
Oil pan
coolant catch bucket
nitrile gloves
ziploc bags
sharpie
rubber storage totes
For each step, I used a separate plastic bag that is labeled to keep stuff simple and make re-assembly much easier.
I started with a spare motor I got from a salvage yard for $250. I found it by searching on
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and drove 2 hours to pick it up. Note the crappy FRAM filter.
Before starting, make sure the oil and coolant are drained. Also, remove the oil filter.
Step 1: Remove the intake manifold and exhaust header
- Remove the (3) bolts and (2) nuts on the intake manifold and pull it away from the engine
- Remove the (4) bolts holding on the header heat shield, (3) bolts and (2) nuts holding the header to the head, and (1) bolt holding the header to the large black mounting bracket
- Pull the header away from the engine
Step 2: Remove the spark plug coil packs
- Remove the (4) bolts holding the coil packs in and pull out the coil packs (the black things)
Step 3: Remove the spark plugs
- Use a deep socket and the 6" enxtension and loosen the spark plugs
- Insert a needle nose pliers into each hole to grap the spark plug tip and pull each of the (4) plugs out
Step 4: Remove the metal valve cover (this assumes the plastic engine cover is already off.
-Remove the (9) bolts on the outside edge of the valve cover and the (2) bolts in the middle between the spark plug holes
-Lift off the valve cover and rubber gasket
Step 5: Remove the water pump
-Remove the (3) water pump pulley bolts, bracing the pulley with a screwdriver to keep it from turning
-Remove the (5) water pump bolts
Step 6: Remove the motor mount
-Remove the (4) motor mount bolts and pull the mount off
Step 7: Remove the crank pulley
-Remove the crank pullet bolt with a breaker bar and a screwdriver to brace the pulley from turning
Step 8: Remove the timing chain cover
-Remove the (15) bolts from the outer edge of the timing cover and the (1) bolt in the center. Leave the hex plug in the cover alone
-Useing the putty knife and rubber mallet, force the putty knofe between the timing cover and the block to break the seal of the silicone sealant
-Once the knife has the cover broken free all the way around, lift the timing cover out
Step 9: Remove the timing chain
-Remove the (2) bolts holding the oil chain tensioner and (2) bolts holding the intake side chain guide
-Remove the two chain guides, oil tensioner and the timing chain
Step 10: Remove the dual camshafts
-Remove the (16) cam bolts and (3) main bracket bolts in order to remove the cams
-Be careful not to loosen one side all the way up first or the cam could warp. Instead, start with the main bracket bolts and loosen 1/2 turn, then the (4) bolts on the opposite side 1/2 turn, then the others working your way toward center
-Keep loosening them 1/2 turn at a time until all bolts can ba turned by hand
-Remove all bolts, the main bracket and smaller cam brackets, and lift out the cams. All the brackets are numbered and have arrows, so don't worry about mixing them up.
Step 11: Remove the engine head 
-Using the special head bolt tool, loosen the (10) head bolts 1/2 turn at a time, in a left front, right back, left back, right front, next set in, and two center bolt pattern.
-Lift the head from the block
Note the carbon buildup in cylinder 1. There are carbon deposits in all four intake ports. I suspect the PCV valve was clogged and oil was leaking through the valve seals. I'll be replacing them on the head. The cylinder walls also still had a hone on them, I think this engine was never broken in properly.
Step 12: Remove the oil pan
-Remove the (9) bolts and (2) nuts holding the oil pan
-Use the putty knife to break the sealant loose between the pan and the block
-Lift the pan and remove
This is why you change your oil regularly and don't use Quaker State or Wal-Mart brand or FRAM orange filters. I recommend Mobil1 5W30 synthetic, or another full synthetic.
Step 13: Remove the bottom end
-Remove the (9) exterior bolts
-Remove the (2) oil strainer nuts and (1) oil strainer bolt. Remove the oil strainer and gasket.
-Remove the (3) bolts under the oil strainer.
-Remove the oil filter connect because there is the final bolt under it holding the lower block. Use the 12mm hex shaft socket for this. It should not require much force.
-Remove the final bolt
-To remove the bottom end, place a large flat screwdriver in the recessed grooves on each end of the block. Pry upward and lift off.
Step 14: Remove the pistons and rods
-Use a 12 point socket and remove each of the two cap bolts on each piston rod. Loosen one side a half turn, then the other until both bolts turn easily.
-Completely unscrew each bolt and remove the cap.
-push the piston and rod assembly downward and out of the block.
-re-assemble the rod cap to keep the bearing in place and not lose the bolts.
Step 15: Remove the crankshaft
-use a 12-point socket to loosen the bolts from the caps. Work similar to the head bolt pattern, from top to bottom and outside in, turning 1/4 turn at a time until all bolts are loose.
-remove the caps. They are numbered and with an arrow pointing to the sprocket end so they are impossible to mix up.
-remove the crankshaft and set it down gently in a place where it will not be disturbed. Cover it with a shop rag to prevent dust and grit buildup.
-remove the journal bearings and thrust washers if they did not fall out when you removed the crankshaft. The journal bearings will have a 1,2,or 3 laser marked on them. Be sure to note the size of each bearing and position if you intend on replacing it with new OEM ones.
DONE!
Congrats! YOu have now successfully disassembled the block. It is now ready to be sent out for any machine work needed. If you wash it down before sending it out, immediately dry the cylinder walls or they will rust.
I would strongly recommend replacing the pistons and rods, especially if you are going foced induction. here is the side by side comparisson to illustrate. The stock rod is simply cast from powdered steel. The replacement Crower rods are milled from a single block of forged steel and include a brass ring insert on the top end for the wrist pin since there is not a bearing there.
Once you've rebuilt your motor, you can add something like this.
Reserved for rebuild part
Trying to reserve a second post for the rebuild, mods can you please split this sentance to a second post in the thread. I may run out of room with a single post and would like to continue the article before other comments.
